Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
All-Purpose OWF Discussions => General Outdoor Furnace Discussion => Topic started by: wood_I on January 10, 2014, 01:30:08 PM
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Well since am new to site here--I have flushed my system every spring and refilled and adding anti corr. to water--do you really need to every spring? it ok to do every other year? seems like water in system is pretty good still everytime I flush it out--any comments? thanks
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3 yrs, same water just check pH level when I shut down in spring and again in fall before fire up
However I do have y-strainers before my HX and those get cleaned out every fall, before start up; also a top off on closed loop side of system (add water is needed, and check for leak if pressure dropped to much) and a quick check to make sure the pumps work. Them off to chucking WOOD into the beast
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check ph?? I just put in anti-corrosion stuff each spring after flushing--what do you check if just using that?? ph still?
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It's that how you check the anti-corrosion level with those little pH strip thingies, isnt it; cause I do not flush system, justadd water when low and check the chemical levels a couple times a year.
I do have to check the house side of the heat exchangers pH, due to the fact I am running propylene glycol and it can sour if not properly maintained, (checked twice a year, shut down and start up
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Well you can do a flush without loosing the valuable liquid. Strainers are a great idea on any kind of boiler, it's also an early way to tell if problems start and catching it early. If its clean then you can extend flush periods.
I have drained systems to find pretty clean water, but it usually takes a jet of water to the bottom to stir up debris if its settled or sludged. Which I have found many times on large volume jackets. The bad ones take several flushes with a jet, then I throw in a fiber optic inspection camera to check metal condition. Krud Kutter works well to loosen/dissolve. These are usually units that never seen maintenance.
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I have went every other year a couple times but I figure my woodmaster unit only takes a half a gallon of boiler treatment so I do it every year most of the time. I take one day and scrape the inside of my firebox and try to remove any creosol and build up I can and also flush and refill the water tank at the same time. I believe I was also told the boiler treatment acts as a lubricant for the pumps and heat exchangers also(coats everything). The other reason I do it yearly is so I can back flush all my lines and get rid of any sediment. I have shut off valves on both my supply and return lines so I can back flush both sets of lines and component's.
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I use a test kit from Wood Boiler Solutions LLC. Comes with good instructions and enough stuff to do about 10 tests. Very easy.
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well sounds like I will just flush each spring to and add anti corrosion 1/2 gallon to whole system here too--thanks
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Sprinter,
When you say you can do a flush without losing the valuable liquid, I assume you mean recover it and pump it back in after the flush. Or am I confused again?
Woodwalker,
Thanks for the link. I ordered my test kit and chemical today. I looked for online sources last year and couldn't find any.
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i was also wondering were to get a ph test kit. And what results are good and bad. Need to do this soon. Were are you guys taking your test water from? Back of boiler or from air bleeder in the house?
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I have a hose bib in my basement for filling the system I use.
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This is where I have gotten testing stuff:
http://www.altheatsupply.com/alternative-ph-paper.html (http://www.altheatsupply.com/alternative-ph-paper.html)
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In the fall I test before first startup, so I let the pump run for 10-15 minutes to get all the water in the boiler mixed together - then I pull a sample either from the hose bib in Mechanical Room or from the little pipe where you check the water level on boiler.
during the seaon or in the spring, I first check to make sure pump is OFF and then take a sample. Mainly cause I dont feel like testing 180F water
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Mr. Littlejohn, just a side-note..... my Heatmaster manual requires 24-48 hours of circulation before taking a sample. You may try both and see if it really makes a difference.
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Country Boy, was not aware of the 24-48hr thing, but I will give it a shot. Pretty much only affect the fall test, cause during heating season that boiler is almost always calling for heat