Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
All-Purpose OWF Discussions => General Outdoor Furnace Discussion => Topic started by: Sprinter on January 25, 2014, 12:04:46 PM
-
http://www.boilerbuddy.com/calculators/bbselector.html (http://www.boilerbuddy.com/calculators/bbselector.html)
A good site to get some buffer or storage tank info. Will size a buffer tank for you or show you what you can gain in reduced cycle times.
Buffer tanks are most beneficial when the boiler output does not match the load. So pretty much 95% of the time if the boiler was sized with a heat loss calc for a design day. Is it a must no, can it be beneficial yes, how much depends on the current system design and efficiency. This can also help keep boiler return temps in the safe zone, since all the boiler sees is the tank not the whole system.
Some use electric water heaters as a very inexpensive option to try. The element ports are 1" to 1.25" most common.
-
By cutting the entire loop in half, so the boiler only feeds a buffer tank as soon as it enters the house. You might be able to use a smaller circulator. Set the buffer tank turn on at 150-160 degrees and turn off in the 180-195 range and the boiler will never see low temps. Even adding a 30 gallon adds thermal mass to the boiler, extending cycle times. Now after the buffer you could add some headers and zone everything with a single variable speed pump. Either delta T or delta P. Some great ECM options from grundfos and taco. This way instead of the whole system running and seeing hot water wether it needs it or not. Only the zone or zones that are calling turn on, effectively putting heat exactly where it's needed.
-
Bump the spammers