Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
All-Purpose OWF Discussions => General Outdoor Furnace Discussion => Topic started by: wissel12 on January 29, 2014, 06:01:45 PM
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I have had my New Ridgewood 7500 since January 15. It just sit there doing nothing. The man that normal takes
care of the boiler in the house doesn't want to tie in to the 1.5 copper line. He wants to stay home and what for service
calls.
I contacted a different boiler man. He wants to come out and check everything else with the set up of the OWB.
I told him I got that under control. He ask me who gave me an diagram to set it up. That my pump willn't be right.
And i'll not be able to get the air out of the OWB. He thinks I'm dumb as a rock. I told him I got support from you guys.
The weather is going to be nice this weekend and I want to fire it up. I'm afraid to tie in the to the copper line. I'm not sure about getting
the air out of that line. And it's a closed system so you don't want to put a lot of new water in it.
Help me. All I want to do is use it. Do you guys think I should do it myself?
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You can do it yourself im sure, feel free to give me a call and ill try to walk you through it, I feel wed communicate better that way
We will come back here and tell what we discussed so all can learn but I could spend hours here diggin through it or 20 mins on a phone call, since its a brand I sell I wanna help u out
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Thanks Scott! Craig said i could call you with questions.
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Thanks Scott! Craig said i could call you with questions.
Haha, yes, no problem
:thumbup:
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I got a union hall pumper going to cut it in for me. Just going to need help getting air out of the lines.
Would you like me to take a picture of the boiler set up?
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I got a union hall pumper going to cut it in for me. Just going to need help getting air out of the lines.
Would you like me to take a picture of the boiler set up?
Are you trying to tie it altogether as one?????????
There is a ton of variables here
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Oh boy , I hope you know this union hall guy. I will say this, it IS a piece of cake, walk in the park and all that. A professional should make it look easy, and if they can, so can you. Just maybe not your first try, unless your even somewhat mechanical.
No worries, and NEVER argue with a pro about interneck advice and support. Can't tell you how many times a lady has told me that the isle jockey at Home Depot or some forum said I'm doing it wrong and argued with me. But hey I'll do whatever you are paying me to do by the minute. I'll hold off arguing till it's all said and done and paid, then say I told you so.
Good luck, would love to see your new system running.
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Im going to run it through the 20 plate ex changer first. Then through the 50 plate ex changer.
Should I run a loop to more water past the 20
The retrun line from the 3 different zones come together as 1.5'' line before the boiler.
It is a copper line. Going to mount the 50 and 20 side by side.
He is going to cut out a piece of copper solder to 90's run it over to the 50 and back into
the boiler.
Slimjim told me to get a aquastat to keep the boiler from firing until it reaches the low
limit setting.
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Im going to run it through the 20 plate ex changer first. Then through the 50 plate ex changer.
Should I run a loop to more water past the 20
The retrun line from the 3 different zones come together as 1.5'' line before the boiler.
It is a copper line. Going to mount the 50 and 20 side by side.
He is going to cut out a piece of copper solder to 90's run it over to the 50 and back into
the boiler.
Slimjim told me to get a aquastat to keep the boiler from firing until it reaches the low
limit setting.
Slim knows what hes talkin about on this stuff...
But I cant figure anything out from your descriptions.
If you go through a 20 then to a 50 Im not sure what your wanting to loop around or how that would work
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Sprinter I don't want to solder the 1.5'' copper line. Everything else i will do my self.
My job is a Water Superintendent. I work on cast and ductile steel water lines.
So I have mechanical skill. That soldering with water in the lines gets me sometimes.
I could have got compression mac joints from work. Just didn't know how they would
hold up to the heat.
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Put a tee before the 20 plate and after the 20 plate. With a ball valve to adjust the water flow.
I Thought the 20 plate will cut the flow down.
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Put a tee before the 20 plate and after the 20 plate. With a ball valve to adjust the water flow.
I Thought the 20 plate will cut the flow down.
It will slow the flow but tees just usually cause eater to take pathe of least resistance in this stuff, if enough water ainr going through the 20 it wont work anyway
How did you know which sizw pumps u need to do this?
Have you got those yet, if so what size? What size pex, hoe many feet of pex
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I got a grundfos 1/6 hp pump(suppose to be same as taco 011. 1'' pex 125ft
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I got a grundfos 1/6 hp pump(suppose to be same as taco 011. 1'' pex 125ft
26-99 sounds like
125ft total or one way
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yes you are correct 125 foot one way
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yes you are correct 125 foot one way
So 250 ft
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yes
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Well how's it going? No do not even think of compression on boilers. They leak most of the time, if not now eventually. Just too much temp change and expansion etc.
Come on, you been reading and all while waiting for the install,, did or dint you calculate your head loss?
This is what makes you better than the average consumer and understand, if issues arise. Do you HX have head loss specs? What size boiler do you have? You could also put a bypass with balancing valve at the 20 plate. It will insure you get proper plate flow, while having more flow in the mainline. Another option is to put a normally open full port or 1.25" zone valve in the bypass, so it's closed only when the water heater needs flow. This way you have full flow to the boiler, unless the WH needs it. Easy way to fix a flow concern if need be.
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No I did't calculate head loss. I was lazy and went with a higher hp and three speed pump.
Shame on me.
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Wissel, sometimes a phone call can help speed things up a great deal, at least to figure out what you are doing, Scott offered to help, why don't you give him a call?
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Yes I should call him slimjim. I also got my aqauastat for the boiler.
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good for you on both counts, sometimes it's a bit frustrating to put everything in print one piece at a time if you know what I mean. When you are ready to install the aqua-stat I will talk you through it on here so that others can grasp it as well.
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Okay slim I will
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I wish the site owner would make slim or Scott or someone an admin or atleast a little extra features. So they could have a stickies section for the most important topics. Like a nice wiring stats thread....etc. I haven't done much searching here but some sites search function stinks, or new uses don't use it.
Tekmar and taco have some real good diagrams with many examples. Short of color coding and doing it for you ,they are pretty easy.
Think of all your controls as just switches, either on or offs. They make or break.
And wissel, the right size pump can make a big difference. Take pride in your new unit, education is what can save or help the wood burning industry. If you did some good planning, you could be using a cheap $80-$100 pump. Is your ridgewood higher or lower than your cast iron boiler
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The OWB is higher than the boiler in the house.
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Thanks Scott!!
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I got the OWB hooked up and some of the inside work done yesterday. Plan on finishing the inside today. Then the cut in work will be done tomorrow. I hope to start it up Tuesday.
I got a question. If I want to put a unit heater in my attach garage. What would you suggest how to do it?
I will post pictures when up and running.
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I got the OWB hooked up and some of the inside work done yesterday. Plan on finishing the inside today. Then the cut in work will be done tomorrow. I hope to start it up Tuesday.
I got a question. If I want to put a unit heater in my attach garage. What would you suggest how to do it?
I will post pictures when up and running.
if its gonna be a rare use type setup id probably do a close t set up with zone pump that supplied it only after it called for heat off of the main loop
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I would like to keep the garage at 60, so it would always be in use.
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Well it could still work, but whenever you start to desigb a system like this, its why everything the system is gonna do needs to be laid out there. That way we can assure enougg btu are available to supply all your needs.
Its possible it will still work though, it may be a rare case wherre boiler, hot water, and garage were all in use at once
But as a note for anyone reading this with plans of your own system, make sure you fully explain to your dealer what all your going to be doing. Different components are needed for each situation, adding stuff later is possible but provisions nust be made from the start to allow it
Wissel, r u familiar with a close T ?
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No
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Slimjim I'm ready for the aquastat hook up. Here some pictures of the boiler.
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Here pic of oil pump.