Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
All-Purpose OWF Discussions => General Outdoor Furnace Discussion => Topic started by: justinb on February 12, 2014, 05:56:31 PM
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Preparing to install my 1st OWB this weekend. what's the best way to get the insulated pipe into the house? I would think coring a hole through the foundation would be the best for decreasing heat loss, but I'd have to rent a drill for a job like that. Going through the sill plate would be a whole lot easier and faster. What should I do?
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Preparing to install my 1st OWB this weekend. what's the best way to get the insulated pipe into the house? I would think coring a hole through the foundation would be the best for decreasing heat loss, but I'd have to rent a drill for a job like that. Going through the sill plate would be a whole lot easier and faster. What should I do?
Rent it It will be protected from sunlight and the elements lawnmower etc. plus it doesn't look very appealing to the eye
It took me a boy 15 minutes to drill mine once anchored
Just make sure that's right so you don't rip your head off very dangerous tool if you don't know what your doing
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I agree. Looks hideous running thru the sill. I'm a concrete guy and here's my recommendation...chances are if you rent a 4" or 5" core drill it will be dull and take forever. If the rental company can't guarantee you a new bit this is what I would do...buy or rent a hammer drill that takes sds bits. They are common. Take a 1/2" bit long enough to go thru the wall and drill about 20 in a circular patter big enough to get your lines in. Keep about 1/2 to 3/4 between holes so you don't fall off into another hole. Once all your holes are drilled one smack with a maul and your done. Not as neat as a core drill but much more effective than a dull core bit which I guarantee they will give you. Be sure to patch back in with anon shrink grout and waterproof with tar or something. Another trick if it poured wall is to stay away from tie height. There will be rebar at around 8",20"',50",70",and near the top but you won't be that high I hope. Depending on type of wall forms used you should be able to see a metal tie sticking out about 2" or at least a small hole where it once was. This is where your rebar should be!
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GREAT ADVICE Sluggo!!!!!!!!!!!
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I agree with going with the stitch drill method. I went with a core drill that I rented and it took me 2 hours to go through 8 inches! It was dull as a hoe.
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i jsut did my rental house as sluggo suggested..i used a 3/4 bit for a 6 inch hole..i drilled at 7 inches and drilled trying to leave about 3/8 between holes if i remember correctly i drills 17 holes and it took about 45 min (giving my tired arm a break every now and then) and this is only a temp supply!!
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When you have a broken leg you should consult a doctor, when you are working with concrete the doctor most likely won't have a clue but the grunt that beats his but into the ground working with it everyday might be able to teach you something about concrete! Thanks again Sluggo!
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You're right on with the SDS bit style rotary hammer drill Sluggo. Wear ear protection, the hammering of the drill is very loud and close to your ears. The rebar in the pour can be a problem but if you hit it then move over and patch the hole later, if you notice the drill stops going in and the hammering sound turns metallic that means you are hitting metal rebar, don't drill it too long against the rebar, it will dull the bit. In general don't push too hard on the drill, let the hammering of the drill motor do the work. Here's a description of the SDS style bit if you're not familiar:
http://www.confast.com/articles/sds-carbide-tipped-drill-bit.aspx (http://www.confast.com/articles/sds-carbide-tipped-drill-bit.aspx)
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Thanks everyone!!!
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I used a hammer drill and drilled a bunch of holes and busted my way thru. It was rough getting thru the poured wall but it never cost anything but a little sweat.
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I agree. Looks hideous running thru the sill. I'm a concrete guy and here's my recommendation...chances are if you rent a 4" or 5" core drill it will be dull and take forever. If the rental company can't guarantee you a new bit this is what I would do...buy or rent a hammer drill that takes sds bits. They are common. Take a 1/2" bit long enough to go thru the wall and drill about 20 in a circular patter big enough to get your lines in. Keep about 1/2 to 3/4 between holes so you don't fall off into another hole. Once all your holes are drilled one smack with a maul and your done. Not as neat as a core drill but much more effective than a dull core bit which I guarantee they will give you. Be sure to patch back in with anon shrink grout and waterproof with tar or something. Another trick if it poured wall is to stay away from tie height. There will be rebar at around 8",20"',50",70",and near the top but you won't be that high I hope. Depending on type of wall forms used you should be able to see a metal tie sticking out about 2" or at least a small hole where it once was. This is where your rebar should be!
:post:
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If you don't have a basement, go UNDER the foundation and you won't have to drill anything. Worked for me :thumbup: