Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
All-Purpose OWF Discussions => Plumbing => Topic started by: Sloppy_Snood on February 25, 2014, 04:46:20 AM
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Perhaps a silly question but.... does Logstor PEX-Flex insulated piping ship with any wall entry sleeves (for pipe through concrete and/or masonry) or end caps for the terminal ends of the pipe (protect against water ingress through the exposed polyurethane insulation)?
The particular fittings I am referring to are the Logstor fittings at the following link.
LINK: Logstor Terminations (Click Here to Open .pdf file) (https://www.logstor.com/Catalogs/District%20Heating/en/Catalogue/2_7%20Terminations.pdf)
If Logstor termination fittings are not included with purchased Logstor Dual Pex-Flex piping, where does one purchase these items?
Cheers! -Slopster
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I have never used any of them, the coated pipe goes through the concrete and then simply seal the wall with hydraulic cement, Do not splice anything underground, if you order your pipe from Brian or myself let us know what you would like to run for pipe after the Logstor and they can be shipped with the pipe.
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I have never used any of them, the coated pipe goes through the concrete and then simply seal the wall with hydraulic cement, Do not splice anything underground, if you order your pipe from Brian or myself let us know what you would like to run for pipe after the Logstor and they can be shipped with the pipe.
Thank you slimjim!
Another nOObie question though....
How does one seal/cover the exposed insulation end at the end of the Logstor that connects to the OWB? Are guys leaving the polyurthane insulation exposed to air just inside the rear door to the OWB's water connections? ??? Curious. :-\ ???
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Yes for most folks that is fine, some are a bit picky and covers can be ordered for those.
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Yes for most folks that is fine, some are a bit picky and covers can be ordered for those.
I am picky I suppose. :bash: :thumbup: :bag:
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Thats fine, we can get you some caps.
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I have a similar odd question. When I built my shop some time back I knew I would someday want an outdoor wood boiler, but I really didn't know anything about them at the time. The shop is slab on grade with a 30" footing poured around the edges. When I poured it, I put a 4" PVC pipe down in the footing and coming up in the slab just inside the inside wall. The "4 goes down about 20" or so in the footing and 90s to the outer edge of the footing where it is capped for now.
My question is when I bring the logstor to that "4 underground entrance, how will I ever create a sealed joint for the two pex lines to come inside? Does anyone have any ideas? :o
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I don't want you to take this the wrong way but don't bother, the Logstor will never make the bend as a sealed insulated pipe, In my opinion your best bet is to come up on the outside of the building with the Logstor, 90 into the building with whatever you choose,(I use copper long radius refrigeration 90's) and from there it goes uninsulated. Build a simple insulated doghouse on the side of the building to protect the piping and your done with that part.
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Slim,
What if I stripped the logstor back to where the bare pex lines were coming out, then feed them up through my existing 4". Then buy a termination cap for the insulation portion of the logstor. I could put a 4" to 6" adapter into my existing 4" line in the foundation and feed the termination cap into that adapter, then seal?
This area is right against the foundation so i could easily dig a couple feet under it and backfill with clean rock under the pipe so there would be no water sitting there. Also, the building has a 2 foot overhang and good gutters so it should not have lots of moisture there. I really do not want to poke a hole through the front of a brand new building if at all possible.
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That might work but the pex inside the Logstor still likely won't make the 90. Maybe worth a try?
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It is going to be difficult to say the least to pull the Logstor up through the pipe even if you strip it back and then if anything ever happens that compromises your sleeve what will you do, also how would you seal the outer layer of Logstor to your sleeve and how do you compact the gravel back under the slab to keep the concrete from cracking. What I am suggesting would be a box of about 1 foot wide, 6 inces in depth and maybe 2 feet high and 2 holes 1 1/4 inches through the sill of your building, this gives you easy access to the lines if you ever wanted to remove them as well as a very sure seal against any water infiltration in the future.
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I agree with Coyote, upsize that PVC then figure a good way to seal between the PVS and outer sleeve of logstor; maybe a heat shrink seal if you can find one or maybe a Fernco coupling.
:P ;D It is my understanding that all transitions shoudl use Fernco coupling ;D :P kidding of course
If you really want to get crazy, once pex connections are made and pipe is position, in the shop you could always go back and fill in that 4" pvc with an expanding foam type product to help with insulation and to create somewhat of a seal from outside.
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Guys, I am getting ready to upload a drawing of what I have. Maybe that will help
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(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p85/coyote556/Mobile%20Uploads/20140228_084409.jpg) (http://s126.photobucket.com/user/coyote556/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140228_084409.jpg.html)
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This will be messy but....
....never underestimate the sealing power of a 5-gallon bucket of mastic pipeline coating. If you can pull your PEX lines through the PVC pipe and get them out the top of your PVC run, fill the whole damn PVC pipe up with mastic. Just butt the urethane from the Logstor up snug to the PVC in the ground first. :thumbup:
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Here is a tweak to Slim's suggestion. Use a roof flange to protect your opening rather than a box. See attached picture. It has worked great for me. I have one here for my main lines coming in and one for my hot tub lines.
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I think the minimum bend radius on 1 inch pex is 10 inches. On 1 1/4 it is obviously going to be much less. I think you would be able to do that through the 4 inch if you did a 45 followed by a straight section followed by another 45 to get your 90 complete. I don't think you will ever get it to turn that 90 in that short of a distance but I could be wrong. Easy enough to figure it out with a dry mock up. Just get a 90 and 2 sections of straight and try to get the 1 1/4 through it. I think it will try to kink on you. When I plumbed mine I have a old field stone foundation that is wide underground, about 3 feet wide atleast and as all large rocks. It wasn't an option for me to go through that easily. I ended up drilling a 4 inch hole through my bulk head footing. It was tight to get the pex through that and then bent around to head down into the basement. My bulk head has a ramp instead of stairs. I built a subfloor over the ramp and ran the pipes between the ramp and the subfloor.