Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
Outdoor Furnaces - Manufacturers with NON EPA-Certified Models Only => RidgeWood Stoves, defunct, support only => Topic started by: chillyhiker on March 04, 2014, 05:32:34 PM
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So the other day I come find my stove boiled over....sees the flap stuck open..was concerned because the stove was just put in service in late oct. 2013....so looked at the selonoid and it was free of rust and has been oiled a couple times since I started. Contacted Graig at Ridgewood and he said some of the stoves have done that and he felt the door needed a little more weight. They are working on a fix that will most likely be a small plate you bolt to the door.
I went ahead and welded a small piece of threaded rod to the bottom of the door and it has been fine since then. My thought was if it needed more I could just thread on a couple of nuts to get the weight right. Craig even sent me another batch of water treatment since I lost about half my water....any way not putting down the stove just wanted to give a heads up to anyone who might have same issue. You should always have a spare selonoid on hand because they can go bad but in this case it wasnt.
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Good thinking on your part, sounds like a simple fix. I have a 6000 being built this week, cannot wait to get it. Thanks for posting your problem and fix. I'll keep an eye out for it
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I would be demanding a new replacement stove.
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Check that chain, it can get tangled up on the clip on the solenoid when it slams open. I played around with set bolt on the flapper to take out excess slack. It happened to me once when I 1st got the thing. Temp hit 195, luckily I caught it. Knock on wood, it has been ok since. I had been thinking of rigging a pull rod in leu of the chain, but am too lazy ;D
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Check that chain, it can get tangled up on the clip on the solenoid when it slams open. I played around with set bolt on the flapper to take out excess slack. It happened to me once when I 1st got the thing. Temp hit 195, luckily I caught it. Knock on wood, it has been ok since. I had been thinking of rigging a pull rod in leu of the chain, but am too lazy ;D
Chain can't get tangled now, they have shrink wrap around them to keep that from happening
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Check that chain, it can get tangled up on the clip on the solenoid when it slams open. I played around with set bolt on the flapper to take out excess slack. It happened to me once when I 1st got the thing. Temp hit 195, luckily I caught it. Knock on wood, it has been ok since. I had been thinking of rigging a pull rod in leu of the chain, but am too lazy ;D
Chain can't get tangled now, they have shrink wrap around them to keep that from happening
Hummmmmmm..... If I recall, when mine stuck open, the clip rotate about 180 degrees, hanging the chain up. Can it still do that now with the shrink wrap?
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Check that chain, it can get tangled up on the clip on the solenoid when it slams open. I played around with set bolt on the flapper to take out excess slack. It happened to me once when I 1st got the thing. Temp hit 195, luckily I caught it. Knock on wood, it has been ok since. I had been thinking of rigging a pull rod in leu of the chain, but am too lazy ;D
Chain can't get tangled now, they have shrink wrap around them to keep that from happening
Hummmmmmm..... If I recall, when mine stuck open, the clip rotate about 180 degrees, hanging the chain up. Can it still do that now with the shrink wrap?
No, not seen that happen in a long while
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I've had my 6000 for a year now, and I don't hava a chain. I have a spring that pulls the door open. I haven't had any issues with the spring hanging up but I know a guy that did. The shrink wrapped chain sounds like a good idea. Maybe an update is in order?
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I've had my 6000 for a year now, and I don't hava a chain. I have a spring that pulls the door open. I haven't had any issues with the spring hanging up but I know a guy that did. The shrink wrapped chain sounds like a good idea. Maybe an update is in order?
Guys it may even be a shrink wrapped spring lol
I'm not sure even though I see them daily, when something isn't a concern or problem you don't tend to notice it. What I did notice was a piece of what looked like black shrink wrap on it
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Check that chain, it can get tangled up on the clip on the solenoid when it slams open. I played around with set bolt on the flapper to take out excess slack. It happened to me once when I 1st got the thing. Temp hit 195, luckily I caught it. Knock on wood, it has been ok since. I had been thinking of rigging a pull rod in leu of the chain, but am too lazy ;D
Chain can't get tangled now, they have shrink wrap around them to keep that from happening
Hummmmmmm..... If I recall, when mine stuck open, the clip rotate about 180 degrees, hanging the chain up. Can it still do that now with the shrink wrap?
Ok, after eyeball the solenoid set up, if the clip rotates 90 degrees, not 180 degrees because it physically can't, it will hang the flapper open. I was able to get the flapper to hang open about 3/16-1/4" after fiddling with the clip. Then I watched the temp slowly rise. With the clip rotated in the wrong direction, the flapper will not close snugly, even pushing on the it will not close it. So maybe a thru-bolt instead of a clip will work. It seems that the solenoid opens way too violently fast, which can make the clip rotate. :P
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:post:
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My stove has a shrink wrapped spring. The solenoid was not energized and I came home and checked on the stove and the Draft door was open. I closed it by hand, it didn't seem hung up it moves freely I just have no clue why it didn't close
My water was up to 214 not good. Anyone else have this problem? I'm going to play with it tomorrow take a better look at it.
Thanks
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Did away with a chain on the first boiler I built and went with a slotted piece of metal. Also added a stop so the draft "door" could never come up all the way. Even though mine was homemade, experienced something very similar.
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I may have to add some weight to mine. I like the thread rod idea.
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I ended up trying this for now, I hope it's enough weight. I will let people know if this doesn't work the one hole strap doesn't weigh a ton but it may be just enough.
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I have the same set up on my stove and never had a problem yet. I spray lube on it every couple weeks. Keep my fingers crossed lol
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Hi,
Already have one boil over, came home tonight and think I got it about ready to cause issues again. The damper door was open and operating temp was 185. On new installs they put a outlet with a switch so you can turn everything off at the stove, along with unplugging the pump. So here is the situation.... I kicked the switch off in the back.. Did not turn off the pump, buy did turn off the aquastat, draft door stayed open. I hear no noise from the solenoid, like its dead. In fear of another boil over I just pushed the damper closed.. It is a brand new stove delivered a week ago.
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Update,
15 minutes after posting this.. I hear a loud open from inside, run outside.. Remember from my last post I forced the door shut, but realized when I got outside I couldn't do this when the solenoid seemed to be working. and now have the normal buzz from the solenoid. Possible short? or faulty solenoid? The open seems much louder than normally. I flicked the on/off switch a half dozen times and it seem to close and open. Lubed with PB Blaster calling Ridgewood tomorrow. I'm guessing a short with the wiring or the solenoid is going bad.
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Mine makes a buzz sound too has since day one
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That buzz noise is normal fsuftball. Mine did it all year last year. This year..........no noise.
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it might just be me but last night the draft door was open for awhile and it was really a buzzzzz.. i pulled downt he door a bit and it went away.
so far today its been working great in this 14* weather i have a huge piece of ash in there that just fits in the door unsplit and it will be going on 24 hours of burn time.. i love this stove.. 74* inside house