Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
All-Purpose OWF Discussions => General Outdoor Furnace Discussion => Topic started by: dodges on April 14, 2014, 11:59:28 PM
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Ive been lurking on here for a year or so gathering info and i love the site! Im looking at finally installing an OWB this summer and had a few questions. Not sure if im gonna build one or buy one but was wondering which OWB is the worst for sparks? Not trying to start a debate on the best or worst brand cause i like a lot of different brands but my OWB will be set in a bank beside my garage and the chimney will pretty much be level with the upper ground! I know they all can spark but was wondering which design is better or worse than the others? MY neighbor has a Central Boiler and although ive never realy set and watched it i cant recall seeing any sparks. So im wondering if a baffle wall helps cut down on sparks! Any info would be much appreciated!
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I have a CB 6048 and it puts out a lot of sparks, look at it night when you open the door. There's more to it than sparks though. It's probability of ignition which depends on the receptor fuel bed and some other things. Convection moves the sparks ( fire brands) up, they begin to cool when they leave the chimney and how many actually hit the ground to actually ignite something. You can pour out millions of sparks and if they hit green grass or some other unavailable fuel then no problem. I've investigated some fires that were "probable" ignition due to a OWB. None of these we're structure fires as I don't investigate those,(my peer who does has never investigated one that ignited a structure), all wildfire.
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I usually shut down in the spring because of fire danger, I think any conventional is worse than gassers but wood quality and loading technique probably add to the problem. One thing any model can not guard against is the point where you must open the door and throw more fuel in, an errant spark, coal or piece could easily cause trouble at that point.
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I have a Heatmaster "E" series which means it has 3 direction changes or by-passes for the chimney to traverse before exiting the chimney. I'd say the more by-passes the less likely it is for a "lit" spark to exit the chimney. I've watched my chimney at night right after loading and there are almost never any visible sparks. I've really only seen sparks when I was burning hedge. After stoking and loading and the fan is blowing and the fire is really raging, I'll see a spark exit every 10 seconds or so. So, I think it's safe to say that it's a rarity for me to see sparks with this design.
The conventional Portage and Main boilers may have 1 additional by-pass over my 3. So, that would even lend itself to even less sparks. That's how I see it anyway. Similarly, gassification units all consists of many heat transfer tubes that will do the same as conventional by-passes.
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Ya I was thinking the Portage and Maine with the double pass would help cut way down on the sparks! How bout the chimney in the fire box design like Natures Comfort or Shaver? I would think they would be worse but not sure! Thanks guys I appreciate the honesty and the replies!
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Ya I was thinking the Portage and Maine with the double pass would help cut way down on the sparks! How bout the chimney in the fire box design like Natures Comfort or Shaver? I would think they would be worse but not sure! Thanks guys I appreciate the honesty and the replies!
I've burned a nature's comfort, sparks weren't an issue
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I think it has to do a lot with what kind of wood you are burning.
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I was just thinking with the chimney closer to the ambers it would be worse but ive been told by a couple guys with Acme that sparks werent an issue either. I think your right on the wood, ive burned some stuff that really popped when it started getting hot! Thanks Scott. I spoke with you on the phone a while ago about my situation and ill be in touch in a couple of months when im ready to order some stuff. I have a couple more questions about pumps and what size line but ill start another thread for that. Thanks again!