Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
All-Purpose OWF Discussions => General Outdoor Furnace Discussion => Topic started by: browncty on April 20, 2014, 08:01:19 PM
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I would like to know where to purchase Chimney Pipe locally or online. I live near the Twin Cities. I also would like to know what type of pipe I should purchase. I would also like to know if there is any self supporting Chimney on the market. I think I need about 15-20 ft of pipe installed to help get smoke up and out of the way. Your help would be appreciated.
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I would like to know where to purchase Chimney Pipe locally or online. I live near the Twin Cities. I also would like to know what type of pipe I should purchase. I would also like to know if there is any self supporting Chimney on the market. I think I need about 15-20 ft of pipe installed to help get smoke up and out of the way. Your help would be appreciated.
I bought my extra pipe at Menards 6" in 3 foot sections I'm 20 foot If you look at my profile pic you can see how close I am that pic was before I raised it I'm close enough to my detach garage I was able to support off roof with rigid slotted angle but that may not be a option for you There are a couple of options is come back to the top of stove on a angle to support off the stove itself. I also thought if you got heavy enough say 2" 20 ft. angle and banded in several spots a couple of pieces around the pipe itself real tight it should be self supporting but may need support directly underneath for extra weight of down pressure Hope this makes sense. If you PM me and give email I can send you a current picture of my setup
Jack
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Nothing self supporting. I've used guy wires, cuz some places make us go 3' above any peak within 300'
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X2 for menards, and fleet farm (the man's mall)!
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Menards, I just checked their website and they have what I probable need. Thanks for the lead. I have checked in the store and they never seemed to have what I was looking for. Maybe they only sell it online.
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They should stock it in the heating section just walked past it two days ago in the Brainerd/Baxter store :thumbup:
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Lowes carries Supervent..which is the same as superpro....That's where I bought my pipe
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Remember guys, with extra stack height also comes extra draft that will pull the heat out of your boiler before it's time, you may want to think about a Tee and barometric damper installed at the bottom of your extension as well as keeping good door gaskets in the doors, No I don't sell them! Does anybody have a desire to custom build stainless barometric dampers, to my knowledge nobody builds them and it would seem that there would be a market for them.
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Definately draft monitoring along with stack temps is a must. Are you looking for something more than a cheap single wall pipe for outdoor use?
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Really guys you need a draft monitoring and stack temps or a barometric damper?? Im 19ft up.. I don't have any of that..Boiler absolutely runs no different than if I had no stack..I think what your trying to promote is a waste of $$$ for someone who wants a high stack…Ive had my stack now for 5 yrs now..Draft never affected my boiler ..I do have to say one thing with a high stack…The creosote builds up at the very tip over time..So once in awhile I brush the stack..( I can tell when the stack needs cleaning just with the boiler itself on how it runs, or the soot build up in the boiler, or how the smoke come out of the stack)..Ive cleaned it last month..
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To all,
I have several customers with flue extensions and no dampers! They work fine. Have not heard any complaints.
Greg Steinacher
618-401-0726
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Matty, have you ever measured your stack temps at the breach of your boiler with and without the extra stack, it is all about efficiency, as the stack distance increases the draft also increases which then pulls the exhaust through the boiler faster not allowing the heat to transfer as well into the water jacket, you may not notice the extra wood consumption but check it for yourself and you will see.
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Matty, have you ever measured your stack temps at the breach of your boiler with and without the extra stack, it is all about efficiency, as the stack distance increases the draft also increases which then pulls the exhaust through the boiler faster not allowing the heat to transfer as well into the water jacket, you may not notice the extra wood consumption but check it for yourself and you will see.
The problem is Slim is that you need a hot fire with high stack temps to keep the extra stack clean..Other wise it will plug up and be a nightmare…No Ive never measured the stack temps..If your theory is right..Its worth it to me to burn that extra wheel barrel load of wood instead of shelling out dollars for those devices..I absolutely know no one that have dampers, monitors, etc on their stacks.. Being 19ft up..Yes I do occasionally get a "butane flame"..Which is a good thing…But hey you probably know more than me..
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Matty, I'm not trying to sell you anything, you do not need any expensive monitoring devices, a simple temp probe that sticks into the base of the stack, 20-50 dollars, an insulated tee, about 120 dollars and a slide in barometric damper for about 35 dollars, you will need to clean the stack more often but the wood savings will pay for itself in short order, keeping the heat in the boiler longer allows it to be absorbed into the water better, letting it run wild only serves to heat the outdoors.
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I am trying to sell you more equipment, but my customers also don't burn 12 plus cords like they used to. And you should always keep the flue and heat exchanger clean. A stove that has 900-1000 degree stack temps is half as efficient as one that keeps the temps under 550. Do it right or your just wasting wood and time. Just because it burns doesn't mean its doing what it could.
A simple temp probe is what $20 -$30 Baro Damper $35-$40. Slip a 6" wye and removable damper on with probe. Makes for easy sweeps. Knowing your stove is doing its best is worth what value to the owner. This monitoring also helps you to know how and what specie of wood does what for your stove, how to load on mild or cold days. When to clean and so on. I am positive the investment is FAR cheaper than the few extra cords that will be burnt.
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Where do you get that stuff? I will have 12ft of insulated pipe on my BL 34-44. I'll try it and do some experiments.
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Matty, I'm not trying to sell you anything, you do not need any expensive monitoring devices, a simple temp probe that sticks into the base of the stack, 20-50 dollars, an insulated tee, about 120 dollars and a slide in barometric damper for about 35 dollars, you will need to clean the stack more often but the wood savings will pay for itself in short order, keeping the heat in the boiler longer allows it to be absorbed into the water better, letting it run wild only serves to heat the outdoors.
I understand you not trying to sell me something..So what is the wood savings??
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I am trying to sell you more equipment, but my customers also don't burn 12 plus cords like they used to. And you should always keep the flue and heat exchanger clean. A stove that has 900-1000 degree stack temps is half as efficient as one that keeps the temps under 550. Do it right or your just wasting wood and time. Just because it burns doesn't mean its doing what it could.
A simple temp probe is what $20 -$30 Baro Damper $35-$40. Slip a 6" wye and removable damper on with probe. Makes for easy sweeps. Knowing your stove is doing its best is worth what value to the owner. This monitoring also helps you to know how and what specie of wood does what for your stove, how to load on mild or cold days. When to clean and so on. I am positive the investment is FAR cheaper than the few extra cords that will be burnt.
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I am trying to sell you more equipment, but my customers also don't burn 12 plus cords like they used to. And you should always keep the flue and heat exchanger clean. A stove that has 900-1000 degree stack temps is half as efficient as one that keeps the temps under 550. Do it right or your just wasting wood and time. Just because it burns doesn't mean its doing what it could.
A simple temp probe is what $20 -$30 Baro Damper $35-$40. Slip a 6" wye and removable damper on with probe. Makes for easy sweeps. Knowing your stove is doing its best is worth what value to the owner. This monitoring also helps you to know how and what specie of wood does what for your stove, how to load on mild or cold days. When to clean and so on. I am positive the investment is FAR cheaper than the few extra cords that will be burnt.
I think those few extra cords that will be burnt is far fetched.. Running cool temps in a high stack or any chimney is asking for trouble
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Merrilroofing, Brian can ship you what you need for extra stack and you can use the tee at the back of the stove for the barometric damper.
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I have plenty of stack. Take-outs from roof jobs.
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Can you cut a piece of stainless to make a barometric damper? It would certainly last much better than the steel ones sold for oil boilers.
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I have a couple stainless caps for 8 inch. Would I have to buy one and replace the flap with my stainless?
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That would work, but I would bet that a guy with your ability could easily copy one and make the whole thing from stainless
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Can someone explain how and why the draft changes with a forced draft stove? I wouldn't think extra height would change the draft enough to make a difference.
Somebody educate me.
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The same way it does with an oil boiler, there is lots of thought given to the draft on different appliances, the more stack height, the more draft or vacuum put on the appliance, this will change the cubic feet per minute of air going through the boiler