Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
All-Purpose OWF Discussions => Plumbing => Topic started by: Hammersquash on July 02, 2014, 12:48:19 PM
-
HEy All,
I have run into two small problems (at both ends of my install).
I have to make a tight turn under my deck to get into my basement and the come-along approach is not going to work. It wouldn't be so bad but the Logstor is already hooking to the first bend in the s turn.
Also, there is a concrete footing of some sort in a place just behind my boiler pad that I did not know was there until the install. I had dug down only 24" before install in case of rain and went to dig down another 3 feet for the bend up the back of the furnace and I hit a concrete encasement or footing of some sort that is not going to be movable. Just my luck.
The question:
Is it ok to use barbed pex 45's at these two points? I am confident I can get away without using a 90 but I am crap out of luck for getting any more bend out of the beast...
-
Please do not make any connections under ground, you can slope the pipe up to the boiler and make a connection with a 45 or 90 but do so above ground and under the boiler
-
No cutting Logstor underground. Keep it all one continuous piece. I would investigate re-routing your Logstor (I realize this is "not fun").
If concrete is in the way of your boiler pad, use an electric demolition hammer (rental) to remove the amount you need to make the turn and gain clearance. If heavy equipment is available to you, dig it out and backfill with sand, flume sand, pea gravel, etc.
Keep in mind, the dirt in a trench will move and it always seems to do that very thing wherever there is a "connection." A break/leak will follow. ;)
-
Go through this thread and see how Dean pulls his ThermoPex through.
Very ingenious.
http://www.forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,48429.0.html (http://www.forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,48429.0.html)
-
Slim,
Above ground level and below boiler won't be a problem. What is the best type of connection to make in this situation?
-
How much space between your pad and bottom of your stove? if you can get the insulated pipe into the stove or at least snug it up against the bottom of the stove then the water lines are quite flexible and you may not need a connection, I use copper in the back of the stove on most of my installs, can you post a couple pics of the back and bottom of your stove as well as your pipe in the ground?