Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
All-Purpose OWF Discussions => General Outdoor Furnace Discussion => Topic started by: ecc_33 on August 10, 2014, 11:03:25 AM
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I did the update kit to my boiler today. It was straight forward and easy. I used a 3" cut off wheel, cordless impact, cordless drill, about 6 drill bits lol, small hammer,punch,screwdrivers, 5/16 socket, high temp rtv, neversieze, cordless sawsall. First you need to take the sheet metal off the side of the boiler. I used the cordless impact and 5/16 socket for this. After that is done peel out the insulation and set it out so you know were it goes back. Its kinda like a puzzle so its hard to screw up.
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Now that you have your air box exposed. Place the new stainless fix up against the old box. I used a yellow paint marker and traced the outside of the fix along with all the holes for the self tapping screws. After that is done get a straight edge and a tape measure and mark 1" in around the outside yellow line. This will be your guide line to cut the old box out.
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This doesn't have to be perfect. The main goal is to keep enough steel on the old box for your new stainless kit to "bolt" onto. Keep in mind all the cut stuff will be hid so wack away lol. you could prob leave more like 2" if desired.
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After I cut the old box out I took a small drill bit. Can't remeber size sorry. And pre drilled small pilot holes for the self tappers. Don't drill to big. You don't want to strip the tappers out either because now you can take this off multiple times to clean the box out very easly! I also used never sieze on the self tappers so they would hopefully come out easy and not break off. When you use the silacone to seal the new box Don't be affraid to use a nice sized bead. Keep in mind you want this air tight so you don't get unexpected drafts that keeps a fire lit when demand for heat is not needed. I got alittle carried away but all well. Its not going to hurt anything. I even ran a messy bead around the outside and wiped it with my finger just for piece of mind.
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Now you can insall the new air draft door and blower motor. Keep in mind you still have to drill two holes for the blower motor. Make sure you drill these holes out just a few diameters smaller than your self tappers. Stainless is harder steel than the other parts you put self tappers in so you don't want to break any off like I did lol. I didn't use any RTV on the flap door or the blower motor because they have nice seals already. I def did put neversieze on the self tappers though! Next just repeat the first few steps with the insulation and sheet metal and wa la! Ready for a fire this winter!
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Secret for drilling stainless is to push hard and run the drill slow.
If you have troubles with your self tappers fine threaded self tappers can be had and you can also get a self tapping roofing screw that gets fatter as it goes in so it kinda wedges itself into the metal.
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Secret for drilling stainless is to push hard and run the drill slow.
Agreed mlapping... but I also suggest a drill & tap oil on the bit. The absolute best drill & tap oil (i.e. cutting oil) is Drill & Tap Shield by Steel Shield Technologies. 8)
LINK: Steel Shield Technologies Drill&Tap Shield (Click Here) (http://www.steelshieldtech.com/mainpage/industrial-product-drill-a-tap-shield.html)
Note: I am unaffiliated with Steel Sield Technologies in any way. This is just the most superior product available and I wanted to share. Give it a try. ;)
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Nice informative post on the refit you will save a lot of people a lot of time nice pics to
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Secret for drilling stainless is to push hard and run the drill slow.
Agreed mlapping... but I also suggest a drill & tap oil on the bit. The absolute best drill & tap oil (i.e. cutting oil) is Drill & Tap Shield by Steel Shield Technologies. 8)
LINK: Steel Shield Technologies Drill&Tap Shield (Click Here) (http://www.steelshieldtech.com/mainpage/industrial-product-drill-a-tap-shield.html)
Note: I am unaffiliated with Steel Sield Technologies in any way. This is just the most superior product available and I wanted to share. Give it a try. ;)
Never heard of that brand before, any lube is better than none though.
I use a lot of CoolTool or Tri Lube in the shop, even have a portable mister as well as one on the big drill press, end mill and lathe.
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Nice job. Hopefully I won't have to use your instructions.
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Thanks guys. Sunday was my only day off so I was tryin to spend as much time with my family and still be active around the house. I have never done a step by step deal like this but thought if i could help one person out by taken pics and doing this it would be worth my while.
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Great job, it gets very addictive, keep up the good work!