Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
All-Purpose OWF Discussions => General Outdoor Furnace Discussion => Topic started by: hrc200x on September 11, 2014, 01:31:31 PM
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Here is a test fit of how I installed everything. Does anyone see any problems? If not I'll paste it all up and tighten stuff down.
A couple questions are, the grundofos pump came with O rings with square edges, and the webstone ball valve kit came with flat gaskets, are both of these needed or just one? If only one which is preferred?
I took a 14/3 gauge wire (3 wires total, one is a ground) off a 15 gallon air compressor hoping to use it to wire the pump, it already has the wall outlet plug in on it which is why I went that route plus the compressor burned up. the actual copper wire in it is the stranded wire, not solid like wiring in a house, will this be an issue?
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Perhaps I'm wrong but the piping seems to be 3/4 inch and pulling from the bottom, is that what the manufacturer suggests?
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I think the manufacture says they have it pull from the bottom incase water level got to low, the return line is not very far from the top, this way less chance of it sucking air. Everything in the picture is 1".
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No difference between lets say 14 gauge stranded and 14 gauge solid far as being able to carry it's rated current. Each has advantages and disadvantages.
Ends can easily be crimped on to stranded wire, not so much with solid.
Solid wire takes up marginally less room in a conduit compared to stranded.
Solid wire is easier to make terminations around screws like on outlets or light switches.
Stranded is much more flexible and should be used for something that is moved often or is subject to vibration.
Solid wire has memory when you bend it, can make for much cleaner boxes or installs.
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Thats the way Heatmor does it - supply at the bottom. The wire for your pump should be fine as well. Never used a webstone ball valve but I imagine you only need one gasket.
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Looks good to me. You actually have a 14/2 with ground wire (2 conductors and 1 ground). That is what I have for my pump. I have a factory plug end with 5 ft of wire and wired it up to the pump. It is stranded also - I would recommend stranded for that as it gets plugged in and moved when replacing or working on the pump or unplugging.
Attached is a picture similar to what I think you have. Yours may not have insulation on the ground wire which is ok.
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Got everything pasted up and installed at back of boiler, after installation I was wondering why the PFT paste wasn't hardening, apparently i bought the non hardening stuff, hope it will be ok. Now time to start on the not fun stuff... in the house soldering, figuring out heat exchanger, sidearm, and aquastat.
I agree with you that its 14/2 wire. But the wire its self says 14/3 on it, maybe on appliances and tools they count the ground as a wire unlike house wiring?
On the side arm for the water heater, its about 48" end to end, my drain and relief valve are probably 35" apart, Is it possible to make the thermo siphon work since it won't be a strait shot across to it?
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The first picture is of the aquastat I just bought that is supposed to strap onto the pipe from OWB just before it goes into the water to water heat exchanger. The second picture is of the aquastat on my existing oil boiler. Somehow these two are supposed to be wired together so the new aquastat keeps the oil boiler burner from coming on. The instructions look greek to me.
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Interrupt terminal # 2 off your old aqua stat by pulling that wire off the terminal, install a new wire that goes out to terminal R on the new strap on aqua stat then take another new wire, attach it to terminal B on the new aqua stat and run it back to the wire you originally pulled off terminal#2 set the new aqua stat at 160 degrees and your oil burner cannot fire if the wood boiler temp is above 160 degrees.