Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
All-Purpose OWF Discussions => Plumbing => Topic started by: atvalaska on September 28, 2014, 11:06:39 AM
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here it is ,I'm looking for input !! a few things to take note of > the boiler is 12' higher than the shop and 6o' of line one way>>> AND the house is not going to be used/not turned on this year ...........1. the slant fin is on ceiling of boiler shed (walk in cooler) with zone valve-- for heat dump as power goes out often. 2. supply line out of boiler is 1.25 iron (until it heads to the air scoop-then its all 1") , after the tee on the supply-- its 1"pex.. the only 90deg angles /are on the iron fittings (all lines to and from shop and house at 1.25pex marked by the "big red and blue blocks) 3. pump in boiler shed is """007 Variable Speed Delta-T Cast Iron Circulator Pump, 1" threaded 115V""" 4. not shown-but in the shop is a """" one inch 4 Way Outdoor Reset I-Series Mixing Valve, Threaded"""" and a 15-58 3 speed pump to run the water thru the 1/2" uponor/4 zone system in the concrete of the 28x42' slab............... .any pointers tips??? I heard one already ..."u want the supply pump to push the water ... up.../because of cavitation"""
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it was 26 degs this morning ...help!! :-\
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First question, is your OWB closed loop or open??
Reason I ask is that, open loop systems generally do not require an air scoop
...on second look I am guessing system in closed loop due to the addition of heat dump (slant fins in shed)
#3 It may be a better idea to have a single pump on each line feeding a building; reason being you can't garentee flow, with 1 pump, especially if load (head pressure) in unbalance ***but since house is not running right now it should be OK of this year***
#4 Four-way mix valve should work, I have never worked with one before but have seen many 3-way valves. If you would have stated 3-way mix I would have recommended setting up the mix portion as a secondary loop of the primary loop from boiler, for less flow restrictions
About pumps, it is best practice to pump away from the boiler (an entire book was written on the subject).
***WHEN FILLING AND PURGING SYSTEM, REMEMBER ITS EASIER TO LET AIR RISE UP THAN TO FORCE IT DOWN***
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got it ..thanks john ....132 views and nobody spanking me ! read and weep boys ! time to man up.....
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ATV, another note, I would have tried to stay with all the same sized lines; because now your 1" lines are your flow resticted. I mean you have all the expense of the other 1.25" pipe.
I know you probably can't change that now, or afford to change that at this time, just food for thought
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air scoop has 1" holes so I felt it best not to " taper it" just before it goes in /not give air a place to hide...figured the water would just speed up a bit at that point...
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So if this is a closed loop do you have an expansion tank and PRV - pressure relief valve ??