Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
Outdoor Furnaces - Manufacturers WITH EPA-Certified Models => Central Boiler => Topic started by: Corneroffice on October 11, 2014, 06:14:41 AM
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Been reading this site for a while and thanks for all the info. And Im in, well almost.
New (Used) to me e2300, new door, fusion chamber upgrade, drain holes drilled and almost ready to go.
Building a wood shed around it and plan to have it up and running in a few weeks (getting cold in NH, 37 last night).
Neighbor has the same unit, so its been nice to have someone show me the ropes.
Pics to follow (ya, Im a little excited)!
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Welcome to the site! Everyone hear is very helpful. :thumbup:
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Very new e1450 owner here ! Welcome aboard ! these guys had me sorted out fast !
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Been reading this site for a while and thanks for all the info. And Im in, well almost.
New (Used) to me e2300, new door, fusion chamber upgrade, drain holes drilled and almost ready to go.
Building a wood shed around it and plan to have it up and running in a few weeks (getting cold in NH, 37 last night).
Neighbor has the same unit, so its been nice to have someone show me the ropes.
Pics to follow (ya, Im a little excited)!
Welcome aboard Corneroffice. You'll find some of the smartest people I know on this site who aren't afraid to share their knowledge with people. I have the E-classic 1400. I live in NH, the Upper Valley area, where you located? Roger
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Make sure and take the top elbow off and check for creosote build up in the air box and drill a 1/4" hole in the cover of the top one its better then the paperclip that they tell you to use and run it hard high temps on the boiler
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Pics to follow (ya, Im a little excited)!
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Welcome aboard Corneroffice. You'll find some of the smartest people I know on this site who aren't afraid to share their knowledge with people. I have the E-classic 1400. I live in NH, the Upper Valley area, where you located? Roger
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Central NH in Hopkinton
thanks for the warm welcomes
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First pic of the wood shed done and the boiler almost connected.
Going to start filling the shed up with wood this weekend and firing up the boiler.
Had a friend do some welding last night, the air holes were showing signs of cracking in a few spots.
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Welcome Corneroffice,
A wealth of knowledge out here. I have the same unit, since 2008, and I've been through just about everything with it. The cracks around the primary air holes is normal. Biggest trick is keeping them cleaned out. Good chance that eventually the air channel will let go. I had mine welded a couple of times and within the heating season it was coming apart again. I have completely removed the factory channel and replaced with my own design using pipe. Just installed a new one yesterday as a matter of fact. Over the last few years I've tried several designs. This one is the most basic and I think will be the most effective. So far so good. Best part is that it is easily removable. I plan to share some pics in the next couple of days, time permitting.
Just re-read your first comment and saw that you said the drain holes were drilled. You will find that the two back holes at the bottom of the firebox are very hard to keep clear and if creosote is not kept away from them they actually act as an entrance for creosote to back up into the air channel. Anyway, aside from the channels falling apart my units air channel built up creosote and ash which dried and hardened within the channel, impossible to remove. In a couple of my first air channel designs I drilled "drain" holes (note that these channels were elevated off the firebox floor) and I had trouble with creosote backing up into the channel. My newest channel has no drain.
I could go on forever I think about this furnace. As I said I feel like I've been through everything on it, some more than once. Any questions I'd be happy to try to help.
Jeff
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I could go on forever I think about this furnace. As I said I feel like I've been through everything on it, some more than once. Any questions I'd be happy to try to help.
Jeff
Thanks for the warm welcome Jeff! and thanks for the insight!
Jody
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Im trying to post my planned diagram for feedback but the site tells me the upload is full... thoughts?
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I've been having the same problem trying to post pics. Not set up or familiar with photo bucket or any other photo sharing sites. Is nice to just post them here, when it works.
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Finally got the unit up and running this weekend, just in time for the 10 degree morning we have today.
Currently I have my heat exchanger in the plenum and a modine type heater in my garage pumping hot air.
Boiler is set to 185 with a 5 degree swing.
Tstat calls for heat, pump kicks on and pulls hot water from the manafold to the unit, aqua stat get happy and turns the fan on.
DHW will be this week.
Everything has been working very well over the first 3 days
I have been bruning wood in the house for the past five years, filling the small stove 4-5 times a day. Get wood from outside, haul it into the house (make a mess), stack the wood in the wood bin, move it from the wood bin to the stove... make more of a mess
Provided great heat, just needed lots of attention to maintain a consistent temp (and that was impossible).
woke up this am and I didnt need to hurry up and stir the coals and fill to get the temp up as I have for the past 5 years, this morning I woke to a 72 degree home and was able to get a coffee and get my day underway. Wow - what a difference!
Im still having issues posting pics, but I will keep trying - thanks for all the info on the site!
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They do a nice job love mine just one glitch but love it,warm house and little use of wood!
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Sounds great how many sq ft is it heating?
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Many factors, nobody is the same 1800 living area??also direct plumbed from 1450 to oil boiler no exchanger,hot water coil in attic of new part with air handler old part radiators,domestic hot water 80 gal,old and new house did addition half is new of the 1800 both have insulation the old side 1853 circa,it maybe more than 1800 sq ft. Used CB flex underground pex.the biggest part I learned was not to go bigger than needed you want the unit to cycle mine does about 1 to 1.5 hr burn cycles.i wanted bigger but Sunshine tree and landscape that sold it to me had to order so they weren't pushing it on me said it was big enough and is very well suited for the job,they could of made some money on me because I wanted bigger they said don't need it and it uses little wood! I'm not new to wood boiler heat had one in basement for 18+ years heating same house or trying to!
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Many factors, nobody is the same 1800 living area??also direct plumbed from 1450 to oil boiler no exchanger,hot water coil in attic of new part with air handler old part radiators,domestic hot water 80 gal,old and new house did addition half is new of the 1800 both have insulation the old side 1853 circa,it maybe more than 1800 sq ft. Used CB flex underground pex.the biggest part I learned was not to go bigger than needed you want the unit to cycle mine does about 1 to 1.5 hr burn cycles.i wanted bigger but Sunshine tree and landscape that sold it to me had to order so they weren't pushing it on me said it was big enough and is very well suited for the job,they could of made some money on me because I wanted bigger they said don't need it and it uses little wood! I'm not new to wood boiler heat had one in basement for 18+ years heating same house or trying to!
So do you think that connecting it direct without a exchanger makes that big of a differance I just ordered the 6048 but I am currently running through a 70 plate exchanger should I consider running it direct boy I'm confused I thought I had it figured out now this!!! Oh boy :o
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Not sure it was the way I was able to do it and less cost of exchanger,my house system was filled with cryo teck ant corrosion additive when I hooked up the other wood boiler in basement long ago and system was clean clear no rust! Not sure on the loss if any but would think there would be some also I think one other circulating pump on house side needs to run constant?
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that's how the central boiler said he has his too direct from boiler no exchanger.. Did you ever have run you other boiler (oil or gas heat)if that one went down? Trying to figure out the open system of OWB compared to existing closed system if I were to turn my propane boiler if it would matter
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There is a thermostat. Valve on the loop from outside if temp goes under 150 it shuts n circulates just the outside so oil inside is not trying to heat that
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Ok interesting....
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You set oil at like a 150 so it will heat the house if fire out or u gone away to long,plus CB doesn't want the boiler to get cold n hot back n forth not good for condensation in firebox
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There is a better way to control the oil boiler!
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I'm just wondering about hooking the boiler direct compared to exchanger would I need a circulator inside too if it's hooked direct.. And what if the propane boiler goes on what stops it from heating all that water in the owb.. I don't mean to sound dumb it's alittle confusing and I don't want to make another costly mistake..
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what's the best way to control the boiler?
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Monitor the incoming/supply wood boiler water temp with an Aqua-Stat, use the break on rise terminals to break the power connection to the burner motor, set the Aqua-Stat @ 160 degrees, any time the supply is over 160 degrees the burner cannot fire but below the setpoint, your oil boiler returns to exactly the way it was before you had a wood boiler.
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Sounds great how many sq ft is it heating?
approx 1600 sq ft house with 800 sf ft basement
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That sounds good with aqua stat maybe do that one day
Guess a strap on one would work so not to break system open
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Honeywell strap on 6006C-1018
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Sounds good always learning,don't really let it switch over someone's always here but still a good idea will instal one day
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There is something about this crap that I really enjoy I don't if it's the challenge of doing something I've never done or just the great feeling of success and screwing the oil and propane companies.. I think that's what I luv the most not paying that bill any more.. And all of you here make it a pleasure to be part of something great.. Thanks all :thumbup:
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Honeywell strap on 6006C-1018
I used this aquastat on my heater in the garage (modine type) the strap on is nice and easy to install. the issue I have is the pex lines take 4-5 minutes to warm up enough to satisfy the aquastat on start up. then on shut down when the pipe needs to cool to shut the fan off, I have 180 degree water sitting in the pipe and it take 8-10 min to cycle off.
I have messed around with the temp controller on the aqustat and Ive concluded its just how its going to be. and its all good.
An aquastat that is sensing the water and not the pipe is going to respond much more quickly.
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so after a week + of running the unit I think I need more BTU's out of the boiler.
I currently have 2 - 009's inline from the boiler to the house. 120' with approx 10' of head.
I have my DHW going through a plate exchanger (60 plate), hot air via a heat exchanger (20x20,4, approx 140kBTU) in the plenum and a modine (approx 40k BTU) type heater in the garage.
when all 3 zones are open, the fan in my boiler short cycles, when only the zone for the plenum is open the fan does not short cycle.
I have messed with the temp on the aquastat on the heat exchanger (in the plenum) and got it to run without cycling but the air temp drops too low after 5 min or so.
my conclusion is I need more volume (GPM's) to increase the BTU's coming to the house.
I was looking at the 0013 and according to the performance chart and I will be getting about 30 GPM's at 10' of head.
anyone been down this road?
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I run 0014 and 0013 on my boilers you have close to 400 gals of water in that boiler and you want to move it in and back quickly that will help on your return temps
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Installed the 0013 over the weekend and looks like the system is performing a bit better. Still having short cycle issues with my fan but its much improved.
going to add a check valve on the return side to the boiler. Mechanical guy thinks with zone 3 pumps on pushing water to the return, they are over powering the 0013 and not allowing water back to the boiler to reheat. by adding a check between the supply and return loop the 3 zone pumps will not be able to interfere with the 0013 loop.
I will post results when we get her done.