Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
Outdoor Furnaces - Manufacturers WITH EPA-Certified Models => Portage & Main => Topic started by: Mr. Maple on October 26, 2014, 06:12:18 PM
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Here is a picture my wife took of the rear of our new stove once I finished insulating the pipe with a triple layer of pipe wrap insulation, then the foil bubble-wrap insulation to finalize and make it all look good, blends right in with the back of the stove
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That will do the trick I think Mr. Maple!
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:thumbup:
You've done a nice job here. I recently installed mine and am in the process of considering exactly how to insulate the exposed lines and water pump. Your picture has given me an idea I had not yet thought of. Thanks for posting.
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Very nice and clean job Maple. :thumbup:
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Cando,does your stove seem to release a lot of heat from the rear end to the right of and lower than the blower?Makes me wonder if it was insulated properly at the factory,get hit with a wall of heat when you open the rear door.
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I can't say that it does, Maple. I live in southern Ohio and the stove is really not working yet as the temps here have not been that bad. We've yet to have our first frost yet, although we're supposed to see the 20's this weekend. I just know that my water lines and my pump which is located on the backside of the unit are quite hot and I'm sure I'm losing more heat than I realize.
I do seem to be getting bigger chunks of coals in my ash box. I intend on buying some additional firebrick and installing them between the existing, movable bricks to make for smaller passages. Has anyone else played with decreasing the openings between the slots on the BL's?
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i thought the pump was not to be covered up but has to breath
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Very good point there tree climber, not sure he has the circ in there but if he does, it will need to have the insolation removed from around it, I don't think it actually needs air to cool it (depending on the brand and style) but I would bet it gets pretty hot inside the insolation, most circs are water cooled!
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My e-classic 1400 has a circ pump in the back. I have never covered it but it certainly gets very hot (I touched it once - lesson learned). I wonder if much heat is wasted by not insulating the pipes. Granted the only part that's exposed is about 8 inches on the feed and about the same on the return and most of that space is taken up by the ball valves. Will I see a difference in the house? I guess I can try to insulate, can't hurt anything. Or, perhaps, I'll consult the owners manual for guidance. Roger
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I do seem to be getting bigger chunks of coals in my ash box. I intend on buying some additional firebrick and installing them between the existing, movable bricks to make for smaller passages. Has anyone else played with decreasing the openings between the slots on the BL's?
cando attitude, I went ahead and spaced my fire bricks a tight 1/2 inch, it then left me a 2 inch space left over, so I fit a 1 inch thick brick that I found here at home & slipped it in. A few days later, I cleaned the ash tray, noticed the coal pieces were smaller & fewer of them. Seems to keep a better coal bed with no effort.
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Circulating pumps are in the basement,my Father's house and mine. Slim I have some pics for you, should there be that much heat loss from the sheet metal to the right of and below the blower?Like I said when you open up the back access door yo get hit with a wall of heat.Attached you will find a pic of where I find the majority of heat is coming from.
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Does the metal skin seem hotter right there than elsewhere in the back of the unit? I expect the cabinet to be hot but perhaps some insolation did not get put in right or perhaps settled, could you remove the skin and get a look at it?
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Mr. Maple, I was so impressed with your insulation job that I went out and purchased some Reflectix insulation and plan on insulating mine this weekend. Any last minute words of wisdom?
Oaky, that's good to hear about the addition of bricks helping reduce chunks in the ashpan. Looks like this is the next thing on my list. Darn, now need to find a down-time when I can get my hands in there.
Cando
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Hi cando, the only thing I did in insulating that worries me is that I enclosed everything so there would be no heat loss. Should I have a problem in the lines, or change the pump in the basement, I cannot get to the ball valves on the back of the furnace unless I rip all the insulation back off.
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Hi cando, the only thing I did in insulating that worries me is that I enclosed everything so there would be no heat loss. Should I have a problem in the lines, or change the pump in the basement, I cannot get to the ball valves on the back of the furnace unless I rip all the insulation back off.
Suggestion: If you would like to access the ball valves and have them insulated, try making a "cube" of rigid foam board insulation around the valves themselves and aluminum taping the seams. Design the piece facing you (when opening the access panel) so that you can open and close it to access the valve. ;)