Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
All-Purpose OWF Discussions => Equipment => Topic started by: ToddMc on October 27, 2014, 04:33:26 PM
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Wanted to pass this one, I tried out one of the Timberline Sharpeners and its amazing. Easy to setup and I can sharpen my chain in a couple of minutes. VERY user friendly.
https://www.timberlinesharpener.com/ (https://www.timberlinesharpener.com/)
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The only thing missing is the raker level indicator,if your not sure what it does it meters the amount of tooth that is allowed to contact the wood,so if you have the sharpest tooth and to high of a raker you will make sawdust and find yourself pushing down to cut,but if you remove to much you will get kick back and saw sticking?I cut with a 044 n a 20" bar so the saw has tons of power to bite thru n a 32" bar for the big stuff.it looks like a real nice we'll make tool but for me I need it all for the money.
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I bought one a few years ago, best thing I ever bought. Can't sharpen a chain to save my life. It has already paid for itself.
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NICE But all I'm saying is for that much thought and nice tool lots of thought went into it they should of had a way to adjust the raker and I emailed them to talk to them and they did respond and thanked me for imput,when they add is to the tool I'll but it for sure.otherwise I'm good with the file.
PLEASE DONT GET ME WRONG! This is the best tool I've ever seen to sharpen I just want it all.
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File guides can be bought that after you sharpen the chain, you lay the guide over two cutter teeth and file down the raker between them.
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I know that what I'm saying is to build a GREAT TOOL but leave out one important part of sharpening out.
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Just invested, waiting to use this weekend!!
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This thing is awesome.
I put it up there with my X-27 purchase.
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Just ordered one for my dad for Christmas. Figured that would be a good gift that I can use too!
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Just ordered one. Put it off way too long. I saw fdaddy's comment on comparing it to his X27 purchase. I bought an X27 about 2 months ago. If ANYONE is looking for a great splitting axe, do not buy anything but the Fiskars X27. I bought mine from Home Depot, delivered to my front door for less than $60. The sharpener on the other hand was more than twice that, but I think I will like it.... Stay warm.
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You will be amazed at the precision that it shapens out.
Very quality tool for chainsaws, expensive but good!!
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If you can find a 5/16 thick grinding wheel, you should be able to profile a cove on the grinding wheel and grind your raker teeth with the grinder. Google an Oregon 511AX chain grinder manual and look at it. That sharpener comes with the wide grinding wheel and describes how to set their grinder up to do this. I assume the Timberline can do it as well since it is a similar design.
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I got mine last week just tried it the first time I have say little bit of a pita at first but it really does an amazing job Luv it screw the file :bash:
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I bought one a few weeks ago and have only used it twice. I don't know if I'm not taking enough material off or what, but it didn't do a whole lot for me. I'll watch the video and try it again sometime soon.
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If you can find a 5/16 thick grinding wheel, you should be able to profile a cove on the grinding wheel and grind your raker teeth with the grinder. Google an Oregon 511AX chain grinder manual and look at it. That sharpener comes with the wide grinding wheel and describes how to set their grinder up to do this. I assume the Timberline can do it as well since it is a similar design.
I used the wheel that was meant for .404 chain to do my rakers.
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I got one and .. man did it sharpen it up nice :thumbup:
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Really like the chain sharpener. I'm going to order another bit and weld a quick disconnect end to the bit. This way I can use my small 10 volt cordless drill to turn the carbide bit. I think this will shorten sharpening times even further...
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I bought one a few weeks ago and have only used it twice. I don't know if I'm not taking enough material off or what, but it didn't do a whole lot for me. I'll watch the video and try it again sometime soon.
Like the man says....raker teeth!! =sawdust
50's right,,,,getting them sharp is 2/3rds the battle. The right height is paramont
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In Timberlands defence,you only have to file the rakers every once in a while.
It's a seperate function and I don't know how they would incorperate a top file into that tool.
On the other hand,,, after we have all bought one,,,, they will come out with .002 that sharpens and adjust's the height :bash: :bash:
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In Timberlands defence,you only have to file the rakers every once in a while.
It's a seperate function and I don't know how they would incorperate a top file into that tool.
On the other hand,,, after we have all bought one,,,, they will come out with .002 that sharpens and adjust's the height :bash: :bash:
Exactly, twice or maybe three times is all the rakers need messed with thru the life of the chain.
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AND...........by the time you get that thing on the saw,,, and ready to rock,,,, you couldof done one side of your chain by hand. ;D
It's very precise on the angle,,, and I like that there is no rocking.
It's a cool tool but$$$
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Really like the chain sharpener. I'm going to order another bit and weld a quick disconnect end to the bit. This way I can use my small 10 volt cordless drill to turn the carbide bit. I think this will shorten sharpening times even further...
PLEASE DON'T WELD TO THE CARBIDE BIT ..... IT WILL LIKELY EXPLODE carbide won't weld .... you can silver solder it
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Sharpening a chain isn't a huge deal by hand. I'd rather hand sharpen a chain without guides. Takes me about 8 minutes. Then take the time to disassemble everything and still do rakers by hand. Its just so easy to keep them sharp by hand every time I put gas in.
I've cut at least 50 10"+ trees since January. So frozen wood, and still have the chain that came on my saw on it. Bought about the same time
I am careful about what and where I cut. But have logged or firewood cut at least 50 cord of wood I'd guess with that chain.
Don't get me wrong, it's not pristine. But it's still cutting good.
Cut through 2" of ice and log last cut and I cleaned her up and still cutting.
I guess my point is, why run the chain till it needs sharpening? Keep it sharp and keep cutting. Just seems silly to me to have 10 chains that you have to sharpen, when if you can keep 1 sharp constantly?
That being said, I always have 2 saws and extra chains. But I also have a "chainsaw kit"
Which is a plastic tote that holds my saw, gas, bar oil, felling wedges, hammer, files, tools,tow strap, splitting wedges and maul, and toilet paper. (Gotta be prepared ) and I keep it in or on my truck at all times.
If I take a different truck? I grab the case and have everything.
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Thats one way of doing it allright.
Don't think sharpening the chain every tank of gas would help the longevity of the chain though.
I guess you just take a few strokes with the file, at that point.
Everyone's got there own ideas and if it works for you, then, ok. :thumbup:
For me,, when the chain gets dull,, I'm done for the day,,, and open up a cowboy 8)
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Different strokes for different folks ;)
I have a Oregon electric sharpener, found if the guy sharpening the chain is the same guy who buys the chains they tend not to be overly ground then. Most times I'm just touching them up and just barely throw any sparks. Besides, over grinding heats the edge of the cutter up then you lose the temper in the metal.
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I got one too it's ok.. Gotta be careful it's doesn't move on you it shifted once screwed up all my angles
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Different strokes for different folks ;)
I have a Oregon electric sharpener, found if the guy sharpening the chain is the same guy who buys the chains they tend not to be overly ground then. Most times I'm just touching them up and just barely throw any sparks. Besides, over grinding heats the edge of the cutter up then you lose the temper in the metal.
Ayuh,.... I hand sharpened my chains for years, 'n although I do a pretty darn good job of it freehand,...
It still ain't like a brand new chain,....
So, 'bout a year or two ago, I picked up the $30. chain sharpener from Harbor Fright,.....
It did Ok, but as time went on, the plastic housin' gained movement, 'n slop,....
Last fall, I went on a hunt for a Nice chain grinder,....
I ended up with the Oregon, top of the line grinder, with the hyd. vice,....
Found one, 'n bought it for 'bout $150. Below list,....
Talk 'bout Sharp chains,.... I'm spoiled now,....
I demoted the plastic chain sharpener to do Just the rakers,....
Now I use my depth mic. 'n cut the rakes to .040 below the teeth, 'bout every 3rd or 4th sharpenin',...
Now when I sink the ole 044 into a log, I see strings of saw shavin's, 'n little to no dust,.....
When I see dust, it's time to swap to a fresh chain,....
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Sharp as a new chain, and digs in :thumbup:
"HOLD ON TO ER DUKE, WERE HEADED FOR THE RHUBARB"
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Different strokes for different folks ;)
I have a Oregon electric sharpener, found if the guy sharpening the chain is the same guy who buys the chains they tend not to be overly ground then. Most times I'm just touching them up and just barely throw any sparks. Besides, over grinding heats the edge of the cutter up then you lose the temper in the metal.
I demoted the plastic chain sharpener to do Just the rakers,....
Now I use my depth mic. 'n cut the rakes to .040 below the teeth, 'bout every 3rd or 4th sharpenin',...
Now when I sink the ole 044 into a log, I see strings of saw shavin's, 'n little to no dust,.....
When I see dust, it's time to swap to a fresh chain,....
Huh, my old guide for the rakers was a .030 and it seemed like the chain wanted to grab too much when making plunge cuts when dropping trees, went with a .025 from Oregon to do rakers and it seems to cut just as fast but doesn't grab during a plunge cut.
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Different strokes for different folks ;)
I have a Oregon electric sharpener, found if the guy sharpening the chain is the same guy who buys the chains they tend not to be overly ground then. Most times I'm just touching them up and just barely throw any sparks. Besides, over grinding heats the edge of the cutter up then you lose the temper in the metal.
I demoted the plastic chain sharpener to do Just the rakers,....
Now I use my depth mic. 'n cut the rakes to .040 below the teeth, 'bout every 3rd or 4th sharpenin',...
Now when I sink the ole 044 into a log, I see strings of saw shavin's, 'n little to no dust,.....
When I see dust, it's time to swap to a fresh chain,....
Huh, my old guide for the rakers was a .030 and it seemed like the chain wanted to grab too much when making plunge cuts when dropping trees, went with a .025 from Oregon to do rakers and it seems to cut just as fast but doesn't grab during a plunge cut.
Ayuh,..... No doubt .025 will cut wood,.... I like .030 as a Minimum myself,.....
As with everything, there's trade-offs,....
I'll take the increased risk of lower rakers, over the safety of safety chains,....
90% of the cuttin' done with the ole 044 is blockin' up residential wood,....
I'll take the added speed of chewin' through 4' logs over the occasional issues of buckin' through brush with it,....
My Tree Guy has all his chain rakers cut to .035",...
Matter of fact, Frank is the one who talked me into knockin' the 'ell outa the rakers,....
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Big Honkin saw,,, and big boy wielding it,,, you get things bucked up quick.
I keep em at .025,, bites good enough for my use.
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I've been sharpening my own chains since I wuss about 12 years old, I hate to run a dull saw or have to push it through the wood, I have never used anything but a round file for the teeth and a raker file for the rakers, 2 short strokes on the rakers with a new chain and again about 1/2 way through the chains life.
Two common mistakes I see people do is first they don't use a straight stoke with the file and the second is they don't cut deep into the bottom of the tooth, the file should almost be hitting the links of the chain on the bottom, this gives you a nice knife edge on the top of the tooth. Of course as we get older three more tools are very handy, cheater glasses, good light and a good vise!
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Ayuh,..... No doubt .025 will cut wood,.... I like .030 as a Minimum myself,.....
As with everything, there's trade-offs,....
I'll take the increased risk of lower rakers, over the safety of safety chains,....
90% of the cuttin' done with the ole 044 is blockin' up residential wood,....
I'll take the added speed of chewin' through 4' logs over the occasional issues of buckin' through brush with it,....
My Tree Guy has all his chain rakers cut to .035",...
Matter of fact, Frank is the one who talked me into knockin' the 'ell outa the rakers,....
I pretty much have to drop what I cut, so the .025 is a nice trade off, it still seems to cut as fast as a .030 but doesn't grab and jump around when making those plunge cuts.
On the processor I use the .030 gauge then take it off and give one more stroke with the file, it will never make a plunge cut and with hydraulic drive it's not gonna bog down, besides I don't have to hold on to that bar.
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I think I'm going to sell my Timberline sharpener if anyone is interested.
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all the wood i cut i hang my loader tractor with the pallet forks. Never in dirt and i try not to drag wood so dirt gets on it. Hard to do but once that chain hits dirt forget about it needs to be sharpened.
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I think I'm going to sell my Timberline sharpener if anyone is interested.
Can I ask why your selling the tool??
kk
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My new timberline is on order and supposed to arrive this week. Hoping my results are like yours. Will be using on my rancher 460.
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Got mine in last week and used it yesterday for the first time. Seems I had a hard time getting it set up. Do you all sharpen left and right tooth as you go? Or do you sharpen all left and then come back and do the other. When I got mine set up for a tooth the next one which was opposite would not line up. Probably takes time to get used to it. The first time with something like this is always the most difficult. It cut ok after I sharpened it. Not the razor sharp everybody talks about on here. It was a brand new chain.
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I'll sell mine if anyone is interested. I've gone back to hand file.
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Got mine in last week and used it yesterday for the first time. Seems I had a hard time getting it set up. Do you all sharpen left and right tooth as you go? Or do you sharpen all left and then come back and do the other. When I got mine set up for a tooth the next one which was opposite would not line up. Probably takes time to get used to it. The first time with something like this is always the most difficult. It cut ok after I sharpened it. Not the razor sharp everybody talks about on here. It was a brand new chain.
I had a chain that did that, it was WAY out of balance on one side, couldn't sharpen both sides at once. The only way to fix is to keep going around and sharpening until both sides are even. In my case it was an old chain that came with a saw I bought used, I ended up re0lacing the chain as it wouldn't cut straight cause it was so far out of balance.
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Update!!!
I went back and watched the video again on you- tube and tried it again. This time I figured it out and man did this thing cut. Shavings about as wide and long as a cigarette butt. Eat right thru the wood effortless.
I'm well pleased.
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I have always sharpened by hand with good results. The wife decided i've been a good boy and she bought me a Timberline Sharpener. It took a little fussing with to get it set up right , but man it does a good job. I like to say that I can sharpen pretty well by hand , but this tool gets the edge spot on and gets all the teeth the same every time. I was really impressed with the way it works and how the saw cut after. Wife not so impressed I used it on the kitchen table :o. Sorry I was excited and it was cold in the shop