Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
Outdoor Furnaces - Manufacturers WITH EPA-Certified Models => Portage & Main => Topic started by: Cabo on November 02, 2014, 05:38:56 PM
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I've been burning now for 15 days and figured I'd clean the tubes today. I opened the back up this AM and my stack temp was reading 275-280 so I figured I'd wait. Two days ago I saw 300(maybe read it wrong at a quick glance). Is it possible to have a stack temp drop slightly? Dependent upon wood type/moisture content?
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There are several factors for consideration, first would be water temperture, if the water temp is down at the time it will show the stack temp down a bit as well. second, would be the fire and where it is in it's burn cycle, early on in the burn cycle, the stack temp will be down because the fire and brick are not as hot as at the end of the cycle. Third would be wood quality and how much gas you are producing, one thing I notice about wood quality is that I prefer more dense woods with some moisture in the wood over very dry or partially punky woods, really dry or punky woods will flash off very quickly whereas dense woods with some moisture tend to give off their gasses slower and more steady. Your stove will burn about anything for clean wood and give you heat but there are lots of variables that you will learn to identify.
All this being said, I would say it's about time to brush her out and don't forget to take a look at the air box while you are cleaning. How do you feel about the stove's performance at this point Cabo?
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What do you mean by "punky wood?" Just trying to understand Slim. :thumbup:
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Partially decayed, over dried very light wood like Elm, pine or birch, once dry they give off great heat for a short time with very little in the way of a coal bed.
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Thanks for the education SlimJim! :thumbup:
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Seems as well it depends on how the elm died. Some when you first might notice are dead, the bottom of the log is already punky, call it doughty here.
Red elm is great if you can find it, will stand dead until the roots rot out from under it, then even after it's down the only part of that will rot is what's in direct contact with the ground.
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I'm very pleased with it Slim. Has not been hard at all to keep running. A couple of times it used more wood then I thought but no problem to re-fire(would have sworn it would never re-ignite on it's own). I understand what you're saying about different woods/moisture levels. I feel I may have split some of my wood a little on the small side and I have 2 years worth already done but will mix in larger stuff (I'll process this winter) with next years. I've also wondered about burning ash. I have a mix of white/yellow birch, a little maple and hickory and about 70% ash. Seems like the ash may burn faster then the other species but that was what was on the majority of the wood lot. You mentioned the air box. Could you explain what to look for/do to that?
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The Stainless air distribution box in the back of the boiler, Simply unsnap the 4 snaps and remove the cover when you clean the boiler, check for moisture present there, it is a sure sign of air leakage somewhere in the unit, typically doors need to be adjusted when there is moisture in the D Box.
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I will look at that when I clean Slim. Thanks for the heads up.
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You are very welcome!
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Had a chance to clean the boiler tonight. I would say it took about 20 minutes. Not real familiar with it yet so I'm sure it will take less time in the future. Stack temp was running a little over 300 this AM. After the cleaning at the end of a burn cycle it was reading 275. Did I miss something since it's not at the 260 range? Does the thermometer get gunked up after a while? I had raked out the reaction chamber once earlier but I must not have got all the way to the rear as I was surprised how much ash I pulled out. Took off the D box cover and no moisture, things looked clean. Is there anything to keep lubed in there?
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Stack temp is almost right, if you are seeing small chunks of charcoal at the ledge on top of the vertical tubes, you might want to cut your main air adjustment on the blower damper back a little, this will drop the stack temp and decrease the unburned charcoal going on to the ledge, cleaning the D-Box is far more important than lubing.
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No charcoal on the ledge, just very fine powder. D box looked brand new. Nothing at all in there. Over time will there be ash that works in?
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Don't mean to steal your thread but has anybody bought the brushes from Mcmaster-Carr or Grainger? I bought a used Optimizer 250 and it didn't come with the brushes. I talked to Rory on October 23rd and ordered both the brushes and a bottle of treatment. I hadn't received anything yet so I called today to check on them. It sounded like they didn't have any brushes in their inventory to send out and he recommended if I needed them soon to buy them from Grainger. Supposed to be highs in he 20's this weekend and low's in the teens. Wanted to get it cleaned out good before I fire it up for the first time.
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check out www.tcwilson.com (http://www.tcwilson.com), they have an expandable wire brush that you can put on a threaded rod and a drill. Not shure if Slim has tried his yet. get the inch and five eighths.
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Before I can try it, I must first find it, I think it is in the nose of my service trailer that right now looks like it rolled over 6-8 times end over end, Thanks for the reminder Coolidge, I will look for it again when I get back off the Island and park my trailer next to the dumpster for a major clean out, I hope it's empty when I get home or else I'll need to use my CAT 416 trash compactor to make it all fit
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I bought brushes from McMaster Carr, but haven't tried them out yet. I'll try them either tomorrow or Monday and let you know how they work.
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The 2" brush works great. The 1 1/2" brush is a touch small, but with the runout of my cleaning rod it works. I'm not sure the next size up would work. probably too big.