Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
All-Purpose OWF Discussions => Electronics => Topic started by: Schaefer17 on November 12, 2014, 06:48:26 AM
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Newbie here and this is my first time posting. but I just started up our New CB5036 sunday and for the most part everything is work good but last night I went down stairs to check things out and noticed that my air conditioner line was froze up. Well I went and flipped the breaker off for the AC after I talked to a heating and air guy cause he said the compressor was turning on and all is good now, but is there some other way of wiring the thermostat so it doesn't do this and I can leave the Breaker for the AC on. I did what it said in the CB manual R on existing to R on New and G on existing to W on New.
Thanks in advance and this is a great site iv been looking at for a couple years.
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A strap on Aqua- stat on the incoming boiler loop could kill the AC circuit whenever temp setpoint is satisfied at the Aqua-stat!
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A strap on Aqua- stat on the incoming boiler loop could kill the AC circuit whenever temp setpoint is satisfied at the Aqua-stat!
:post:
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sounds good. ill look into that. thanks.
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Or just take the wires off the G in the original thermostat and connect them together.
Or if you want the fan switch to keep working on the original thermostat or if your AC requires the G wire, you can add a relay.
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A strap on Aqua- stat on the incoming boiler loop could kill the AC circuit whenever temp setpoint is satisfied at the Aqua-stat!
What if the boiler runs out of wood and the water temperature drops? Wont the AC come on then and really make it drop fast after that?
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You are what I consider the GuRu on 24 volt RSI, why is his AC coming on anyway, it can't be calling for AC this time of year, I simply wanted to stop the ability for it to work when the boiler is running.
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It is coming on because the thermostat is back feeding. I need to research it more but apparently when you flip the switch to auto on the thermostat it connects the Y and G together so if the AC needs a fan signal it supplies both when it calls for cooling. (or if you have a heatpump, both heat and cooling)
When you add a 2nd thermostat you are feeding 24v to the G terminal in the thermostat which is tied to the Y.
On gas furnaces you normally don't need the G wire so you can just take it off the 1st thermostat.
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I simply placed a 120v toggle switch at my gas furnace to kill the input to the AC relay. Have it right by the gas valve to the furnace, come fall when I turn the gas valve on, flip the toggle off, come spring/summer when I turn the gas off to the furnace, flip the toggle to on.
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Either ideal would work, if you go Slims route simply turn your aqua stat all the way down, around 90 or 100 preferably then turn the breaker off to the AC so even if the relay is kicked on for some odd reason in the winter, the AC still won't run.