Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
Outdoor Furnaces - Manufacturers WITH EPA-Certified Models => Portage & Main => Topic started by: Maxnchej on November 18, 2014, 04:32:34 AM
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Hi All, I have a BL2840 and I have had it only running a week. I was wondering how long others who have BL are getting for burn times?
Last night it got down to 14, with wind chill around 8, so it is getting cold here. I loaded the stove around 5:15 last night and this morning the house was still warm but the air coming out of the vents was cool. I checked the stove at 5:30 (normal time) and I was out of wood, not a bad thing since you want to burn it down anyway and my temp was only 125. I had a good load in it last night and even added a few small chucks of wood and there was a large amount still in the box around 9 when I checked on it.
My house is 11 years old and I have 2x6 walls and r40 in the ceiling, house is about 2400 sq feet two story not including the basement and that is about 1300 sq feet but it is unfinished and we don't heat it much. I live out in the open and due get high north winds.
When it gets cold I'm I going to have to load it more then twice a day?
Should I add more wood and if so how high can you stack it? I was a little over the brick line last night when I added the wood, around a wheel barrow full.
Let me know your thoughts
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Add what you need to for a 12 hour burn, There is something that I do when installing that helps to protect the temp of the refractory when you do run out of wood, I use that same strap on Aqua stat Honeywell 6006C 1018 on the supply from the OWB to kill the blower when the temp drops due to no fuel , then in parallel I add a 60 minute timer that temporarily makes the connection until the temp comes back up above the Aqua stat set point, I could E-Mail you a schematic with part #s if you wish.
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I haven't installed mine yet slim. Could you email it to me as well?
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Just sent it, you know how to contact me with questions and I would appreciate your feedback, the goal is to kill the blower once you run out of wood, this keeps the heat where it belongs, in the stove not pusing cold air into the firebox, robbing the heat from the cement and blowing it out the stack
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:post:I don't own a portage but I'm having the same issue with my heatmaster. Could you send me this info as well slim?
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I would be happy to, PM me your E-Mail and I'll send it that way as I haven't figured out photo bucket, perhaps one of you guys could post it!
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Dang Slim! That is a good idea. I have been thinking about how I could keep my pumps running and get the blower to shut off if I have to be away for a few days.
You have my info so please send that to me.
Thanks again for the treatment and filter. P&M better take good care of you!
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I see that Marty was able to post a picture this morning so I'm going to try and post the diagram this morning for those of you who are interested, Darn it won't go, I have had several requests for it so I'll try to get Marty to post it on this thread, Guys if you want it Please send me an E-Mail request and I'll send it right back, my E-Mail is mainlycustomsawing@yahoo.com
The whole Idea is to interrupt the power wire to the blower/actuator and pass it through a Strap on Aqua Stat( I use a honeywell 6006C 1018 ) this gets placed on the supply line off the back of the boiler, use the R+W terminals (they make connection on temp rise) set the Aqua Stat at 160 degrees, this kills the blower below set point, now where you interrupted the power wire, attach 2 more wires to run over to a 60 minute timer ( I use the TORK A560MW ) this allows you to bypass the Aqua-Stat for 60 minutes while the fire is rekindling itself
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Here you go everyone. Schematic for the strap-on aquastat courtesy of slimjim. Haven't done it yet myself but plan to in the very near future. Thanks slimjim for all your help.
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WOW, Thanks Jack, that was a lot nicer one than I've been sending out Via E-Mail, how did you manage to post it? I don't think I even have it in my files any more :thumbup:
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I am in North Carolina but with the temps in the teens the last few nights, I am heating a new house and keeping the 36x50 at 50 degrees and the house at 75. I load the 2840 at 10:00 PM as full as I can get. I wake up around 6:30, no wood but the water temp is still 150 degrees so not bad. I did the install that SlimJim suggested, once the temp get to 145 or so, the blower will cut off and quite blowing cold air into the fire box. Turn the timer on and the fan comes on and I load it up once again. My house is 12 years old, about 4000 square feet but my basement which makes it close 6000 sq ft stays warm due to the heat radiating from the pex so I am effectively heating all of that sq feet.
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So do you think the add on Aqua-Stat and timer are worthwhile?
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I plan on getting the parts to to be able to shut the fan down once I'm out of wood. Its a great idea and I'm surprised that it is not from the factor this way. Just makes a lot of sense. I know PM aren't the only boilers that would have the issue, but they are one of the best and you would think it would be an option to have install from the factor.
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I absolutely agree, Give Brian a call and let him know that, 800-561-0700
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The timer is well worth it. Last night it was not quite as cold so I loaded up the stove, but not brim full. I slept in this morning till 8:30. The house was still warm at the thermostat settings. Outside, the water temp was at 120 degrees. I turned the timer on and the fire started almost instantly. There was plenty of coals in the bottom so it started right up. Fill the stove with wood and off I went.
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THAT is the GOAL!
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Is it OK to let the water temps drop that low?
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Trust me, water temps below 140 is a no no from what I have read and I will try to prevent that at all cost making sure I keep the wood completely full before going to bed. But, everyone once it a while it will happen. Even then, I have never noticed any condensation in my boiler though.
This brings me to another question? Is the aquastat reading on the A419 really accurate? The reason I ask is there is probably a 8 to 10 degree differential between my Watts dial temp reading and the A419. The A419 is much lower, I even set the water temp to 200 on the Aquastat just to see if I could get Steam coming from the boiler. No steam, so it makes me think maybe something is off. Maybe that's why I have never seen condensation, 120 on my Aquastat is not really 120? Who knows, but I am warm and I guess that is what matters ;)
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I would trust the accuracy of the Johnson control over the dial gauges any day. I have used these controls for years in both heating and cooling applications and never had any issues. I'm not saying they couldn't be off but I haven't seen one go bad yet.
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Agreed Cabo 100%
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there it is! I was looking for this post. I am bumping it up for another reader purpose. Thanks for the timer /aquastat idea, exactly what I was looking for!
I myself freqeuntly run the furnace with low temps....I suspect that one of my underground pipe is flooded with groundwater, which does not helkp insulation! I hence plan to install two of these systems.....one to cut as describe the blower when water start cooling (low fire) and another one in my house to cut the heating appliance when the water gets below 80F so I dont start cooling my house
Nic
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I see that Marty was able to post a picture this morning so I'm going to try and post the diagram this morning for those of you who are interested, Darn it won't go, I have had several requests for it so I'll try to get Marty to post it on this thread, Guys if you want it Please send me an E-Mail request and I'll send it right back, my E-Mail is mainlycustomsawing@yahoo.com
The whole Idea is to interrupt the power wire to the blower/actuator and pass it through a Strap on Aqua Stat( I use a honeywell 6006C 1018 ) this gets placed on the supply line off the back of the boiler, use the R+W terminals (they make connection on temp rise) set the Aqua Stat at 160 degrees, this kills the blower below set point, now where you interrupted the power wire, attach 2 more wires to run over to a 60 minute timer ( I use the TORK A560MW ) this allows you to bypass the Aqua-Stat for 60 minutes while the fire is rekindling itself
Don't know how soon i'll get to this, but sounds like a great idea and definitely see the reason behind it...
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I can get more than 12 hours easily without even trying that's filling it maybe a tad higher than the bottom of the door heating 2500sq feet garage is not hooked up right now forced air upstairs with the thermostat set at 72 and radiant infloor in the basement set at 72 also heating hot water through a sidearm
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I may do this but here is how I handle our frequent 4-5 day trips to the cabin or beach house. The evening before leaving I load it heavy after 10PM. In the morning when leaving I kill the blowers but leave the pumps going so the oil boiler will maintain about 145 temp. When we get home the boiler will be partly full of warm charred wood so I stick a kerosene soaked corncob in and light it then turn on the blowers. By the time we have the car unloaded the fire is blazing and the temp climbing. I keep a coffee can of corncobs with about 2" of kerosene near the stove with an old pair of pliers so I can do a quick light without getting dirty.
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I like the kerosene idea. thanks!
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Great Idea gspren with the corn cobs! PLEASE do not put any raw fuel into a wood boiler by throwing it in on top of the coals and wood or ashes, a year ago a young man nearly lost his life near me by throwing in gas to light his boiler, he now has 3'rd degree burns over most of his body, fuel oil or any flammable can do the same thing when it turns to gases (smoke), the gases are EXPLOSIVE! In the absence of corn cobs, I like to use a propane torch, it is much safer!
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I agree with slim buy a weed burner and that's the best way in my opinion, then in the spring you can also burn off creasote with it.
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Don't you just love those weed burners. I use them to start brush piles. Works like a flame thrower.
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Yes I love them!
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-10F last night with windchills hitting -25-35 still managed 12 hour burn with hot coals when I went out to fill it.
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I'm not getting that long of a burn since it has gotten that cold. What type of wood are you using? How high do you lids the stove?
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Burn mixed hardwoods birch oak maple and ash and when its in the teens I fill it half full and when its -15 I fill it full
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Max, I think your burn times may be affected by a possible brick that has fallen over in your 2840.
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Max, I think your burn times may be affected by a possible brick that has fallen over in your 2840.
How do you check if you have the issue? Do you need to empty completely and then what are you looking for? Really don't want to shut off until spring if I can help it
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A lot of questions can be answered by simply monitoring water temps, Heat loss can be in pipe, low flow, larger heat load than expected, too much draft, poor wood, sticking air dampers, you get the picture we need to have much more information. If it is an issue with the stove and or bricks you will have reduced air flow and the fire will not burn properly, is that the case ?