Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
All-Purpose OWF Discussions => Plumbing => Topic started by: Chas on December 24, 2014, 11:20:01 AM
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Can anyone recommend a good circulator for a sidearm? I'm thinking the smaller the better...... wouldn't need much flow. I'm just looking for a little faster recovery time.
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If you're talking about circulating the domestic water, you'll need either a stainless or a brass circulator. I used a stainless Taco 007 since it was the cheapest for me to buy at the time. It moved more water than it ever needed to, so I put it on a dimmer switch and turned it all the way down. I never ran out of hot water with it circulating from the bottom of the tank up to the top while my boiler water came in hot from the top end of the exchanger and cooler out the bottom.
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A taco 006 should work. As mentioned above, you was stainless or bronze. Technically bronze would need to be lead free. If you need to have it inspected for any reason, an inspector probably won't pass it if he knows it was installed after January 2014. (it was perfectly fine to install before that date. lol)
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If you're talking about circulating the domestic water, you'll need either a stainless or a brass circulator. I used a stainless Taco 007 since it was the cheapest for me to buy at the time. It moved more water than it ever needed to, so I put it on a dimmer switch and turned it all the way down. I never ran out of hot water with it circulating from the bottom of the tank up to the top while my boiler water came in hot from the top end of the exchanger and cooler out the bottom.
Is it still working?
A dimmer switch cuts voltage, most electric motors don't like running at a reduced voltage as it pulls more amperage to run, increased amperage usually means increased heat in the windings.
If you ever look at some larger motors, they may be rated for 208 volts but will pull more at 208 than at 240.
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I bought one of these used off Ebay for 50 bucks.
http://www.isopurewater.com/product.asp?itemid=5416&gclid=COXQk6mg4sICFfEF7AoduEkAvQ (http://www.isopurewater.com/product.asp?itemid=5416&gclid=COXQk6mg4sICFfEF7AoduEkAvQ)
The way I have it wired is that I disconnect and plug the wiring for the lower thermostat in the winter time. Then I route the Hot wire for the plug that the pump plugs into through the lower thermostat on the water heater to act as an on off switch. I set the thermostat to 140 and it will turn the pump on when the water in the tank drops below that. Works awesome! It does pump the water through the side arm to fast though so I simply installed a quarter turn ball valve in line with the pump on the discharge side and just meter it back until the water is always hot leaving the top of the side arm. I never run out of hot water.
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If you're talking about circulating the domestic water, you'll need either a stainless or a brass circulator. I used a stainless Taco 007 since it was the cheapest for me to buy at the time. It moved more water than it ever needed to, so I put it on a dimmer switch and turned it all the way down. I never ran out of hot water with it circulating from the bottom of the tank up to the top while my boiler water came in hot from the top end of the exchanger and cooler out the bottom.
Is it still working?
A dimmer switch cuts voltage, most electric motors don't like running at a reduced voltage as it pulls more amperage to run, increased amperage usually means increased heat in the windings.
If you ever look at some larger motors, they may be rated for 208 volts but will pull more at 208 than at 240.
Ran for 3 years until I uninstalled everything and moved with it. I'll be installing it at my new house this summer, though I'm probably going to go with an on-demand plate exchanger here instead.