Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
All-Purpose OWF Discussions => Equipment => Topic started by: RSI on February 10, 2015, 10:32:02 PM
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Anyone here know anything about hydraulics?
I am wanting to put another valve on my Kubota RTV for lifting and turning the plow. As far as I can figure, if you have a power beyond port on the existing valve you can do it. How do you find out if you have that? If it doesn't have it, can you use a new valve with the option and reroute the flow to the new valve first and then back?
I am thinking about getting a joystick style valve so one one lever to lift and turn. I would be trying to mount on the dash but not sure if there is room or not. If I can make that work, would the additional hose between the original valve next to the seat and the dash mounted valve be an issue? Would 1/4" hose be ok still or would I have to go larger?
My other option is to just use an electric selector valve and the existing valve. If I do this it would be kind of annoying to use and I would have to unplug the dump bed to use it.
Any ideas on where to start with this???
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I would think you could install tees off your existing supply and return lines off your pump and run them out to a new valve, quick couple them from the valve and mount the valve to the plow frame so you only have the 2 lines to connect / disconnect
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If you do not have a port for a remote valve, here is the easiest way. Find the hose that is the return to the present valve, disconnect it and run it to a new valve body (extra hose will be needed), run the return hose from the new valve body to the primary valve .(into the port which you disconnected the hose from.)
KEY - Make sure your new valve body is an open centered one. If you are not using your new valve body, fluid will simply flow thru the new valve and back to the primary. If you are using your new valve, you will have pressure present- keep hose size the same as what you presently have on the RTV.
Obviously, you will need to run hoses from your new valve to the cylinder you want to control the plow with.
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I'm not familiar with Kubota's at all, but I'm guessing it's not possible to unbolt the valve assembly and add another section to it? If not then it sounds like either slims or heatthefarms suggestions will work.
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most Kubota farm tractors have a power beyond port- I believe it is designated with a yellow or orange dot on the valve itself. Call the dealer - they will know. I have done this numerous times and have found the best way is to add an open center valve. If your hyd. pump is low volume, it might slow things up a bit.
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While I am sure all of the posters in this thread know more about tractors and hydraulics than me, I want to shamelessly plug another "tractor forum" that has literally answered more than 100 questions I have had about my tractor (New Holland in my case). The membership has several members who are both tremendously experienced and offer the best advice I have found on the net.
LINK: Kubota Owning/Operating Sub-Forum @ TractorByNet(dot)com (Click Here) (http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/)
If these guys don't have 10 answers (all correct) for you, I would be shocked. Enjoy and good luck! -Slopster
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What you need is a 3rd function valve..I had one installed on my Kubota tractor so I can have power angle for my snow plow
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I am a little confused about the difference between a power beyond port and just putting another valve in series. Does the power beyond connection run through the relief on the first valve?
I did try finding something on other forums and most searches bring up tractors, not RTV's. I am assuming the valve is not the same on them but really have no idea.
I am still trying do decide if it is even worth doing the whole new valve or if I should just do the electric selector valve and a switch with the existing valve.
Is there a place to get cheap hydraulic valves? I think the flow is only around 4gpm and 2300 PSI.
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I know nothing about the rtvs. But I a assume it's a small single acting pump. My thoughts would be that the money and effort to plumb it up, while an impressive project, would be better spent using a fully contained plow setup.
Ex, western V plow. 1000$ used with harnesses and hydraulics ready to go. Cut the plow down as you need and drive it like a bandit.
You can run valves off the outlet of another valve. But if your using a valve ahead of the second valve, the easier cylinder goes first. And depending on pump flow and load the second valve may not get power until the first valve is not using flow.
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I am not sure what a single acting hydraulic pump is. The hydraulic pump is engine driven and is rated at about 4gpm. Way better than any electric plow mounted pump.
I probably wouldn't use the dump bed at the same time as the plow ever. I am thinking I might just use the electric diverter valve and the existing valve to run both lift and turn. I may get a manual diverter valve too so I don't have to run hoses to the back and swap them to switch back to the dump bed.
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I am not sure what a single acting hydraulic pump is. The hydraulic pump is engine driven and is rated at about 4gpm. Way better than any electric plow mounted pump.
I imagine a single acting hydraulic pump is a open center gear pump, given the 4gpm rating I'd bet on it. Also an open center system tends to run cooler than a variable output closed center system.
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They don't have any oil cooler and say it is not meant to run hydraulic motors because it will get too hot. They have an optional model that has a cooler and I think a second reservoir that is supposed to be for running motors. I think the pump may be the same but they add a second valve.
I bought a Husqvarna hydraulic pole chainsaw to try running on it and it didn't work. Apparently the saw can't have any back pressure or it pops the relief on the motor and blows oil out. I think it would have worked to add a return port directly to the tank but never got around to trying it. That is really the only other use I have tried using the hydraulics on besides the dump bed. (if anyone wants to buy a hydraulic pole saw, let me know)
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They don't have any oil cooler and say it is not meant to run hydraulic motors because it will get too hot. They have an optional model that has a cooler and I think a second reservoir that is supposed to be for running motors. I think the pump may be the same but they add a second valve.
I bought a Husqvarna hydraulic pole chainsaw to try running on it and it didn't work. Apparently the saw can't have any back pressure or it pops the relief on the motor and blows oil out. I think it would have worked to add a return port directly to the tank but never got around to trying it. That is really the only other use I have tried using the hydraulics on besides the dump bed. (if anyone wants to buy a hydraulic pole saw, let me know)
Ayuh,.... I'm sure that you can do the snow plow thing, 'n I'm sure you can hook yer polesaw up to it as well,...
For both, you'll probably want to T off the system, independent of the dumpbox valve,....
A Shop manual for yer machine would make it easier to map out a plan for ya,....
I know abit about hydraulics,...
I cobbed a Hyd, powered 5' brush hog onto a PC-78 trackhoe a couple years ago,...
Chances are, ya got an open center system, when the pumps runnin' there's oil movin',...
Surplus Center (http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/) is My go to place for findin' alota hyd. stuff,...
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How do you tee off? Do you use a 3 way selector valve? I thought about that but not sure if there is much advantage doing that instead of just in series. I am assuming both ways would need the control valve for the plow. In series I thought would eliminate the need for another valve.
I know very little about hydraulics though so I may be completely wrong.
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How do you tee off? Do you use a 3 way selector valve? I thought about that but not sure if there is much advantage doing that instead of just in series. I am assuming both ways would need the control valve for the plow. In series I thought would eliminate the need for another valve.
I know very little about hydraulics though so I may be completely wrong.
Ayuh,... Like I said, I don't know yer machine,.....
You Could put a runnin' "T" at the pump's outlet, 'n run it as 2 separate systems,....
That may, or may not simplify the lay out of the plumbin', 'n valves,....
Or,... You can piggyback onto the valve ya got, but again, I donno what's there,.... nor where it's mounted,...
For yer polesaw, the return to tank, doesn't mean weldin' another bung into the tank,...
It means "T"ing into a line already goin' directly to the tank, 'n not through a valve,....
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They don't have any oil cooler and say it is not meant to run hydraulic motors because it will get too hot. They have an optional model that has a cooler and I think a second reservoir that is supposed to be for running motors. I think the pump may be the same but they add a second valve.
Okay, betting on a open center gear pump, usually when using a gear pump to run a hydraulic motor they need matched pretty close and usually if you don't have a oil cooler then the reservoir needs to hold as much as the pump GPM. A variable displacement pump would only output as much as the hydraulic motor on the pole saw could use, more or less.
And yah, like Bondo said, don't need another bung in the tank, just need to find a return line to tee into, usually plumbing a return like this is called a zero return, as in zero back pressure. Even on our closed center variable displacement pumps on our tractors we still plumb in a zero return as it will greatly lower operating temps and usually extends the life of the seals in a hydraulic motor.