Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
Outdoor Furnaces - Manufacturers WITH EPA-Certified Models => Central Boiler => Topic started by: brimfield on June 13, 2015, 08:02:55 AM
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I am getting ready to pour a slab for a E 1450 and I have a few questions. 1st what is the 13.5" by7" cut out for, is that where the Thermopex comes in? 2nd thing is I see they want a 6" slab, did anyone use rebar or wire in their slab?
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I am getting ready to pour a slab for a E 1450 and I have a few questions. 1st what is the 13.5" by7" cut out for, is that where the Thermopex comes in? 2nd thing is I see they want a 6" slab, did anyone use rebar or wire in their slab?
brimfield - Welcome to the forum. Lots of smart people in here willing to share their expertise for free.
As for your question: I believe you're correct, the opening is for the termopex to come through. If I were you I'd put in some kind of metal, whether it be rebar or wire simply to strengthen it. The E1450 is heavy when full of water so it'll need the support of rebar or wire. Personally I did not pour a slab, I simply put it on 4X8X16 cement blocks. Of course I excavated the old soil away and filled in the hole with pea stone. It seems to work pretty good so far. I will admit that I'm experiencing a bit heaving in one corner during the winter months. Good luck with the project. Roger
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If every thing is done correctly a 4” slab should do it.
Correctly is topsoil removed then refilled with either sand or crushed stone. Use rebar or wire mesh, personally I like the wire mats instead.
A slab that size though isn’t going to break the bank going with 6” instead of 4”.
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I actually recalculated and I am going with 5" slab, I can get ready mix in half yards so 2 yards is perfect . I am putting wire reinforcement under the furnace. Got the form up now I need to level it out.
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Around here, in Southern MN, it seems as thou everyone is going fiber-filled (fiberglass) on their residential concrete and not puting rebar/wire in. My understanding is thats its cheaper to add the fiber into the cement truck, then all the work of the rebar.
..plus, as long as you do not plan on buffing the concrete you will be OK. If you buff it tends to make little fuzzies on your floor where you try to buff the fiberglas strands
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Around here, in Southern MN, it seems as thou everyone is going fiber-filled (fiberglass) on their residential concrete and not puting rebar/wire in. My understanding is thats its cheaper to add the fiber into the cement truck, then all the work of the rebar.
..plus, as long as you do not plan on buffing the concrete you will be OK. If you buff it tends to make little fuzzies on your floor where you try to buff the fiberglas strands
I had that when my basement was poured. I'm not sure if the redi mix guys can do that or not.
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an outside slab, rebar is best in my opinion. you can get by with 1/4 wire mesh if you don't want to tie in rebar but for my money an outside slab (that is likely going to be a floating slab) 1/2 rebar every square foot would ensure that it stays in one piece.
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WillieG, on second thought you might be right, rebar would be better for an outdoor slab.
WHAT WAS I THINKING :bash:
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I personally now put 2 inch blue insulation board under my boilers on top of the slab and make it the exact size of the boiler it gets the metal frame off the slab and out of snow and water the used boilers i have been getting the frames have been rusting out in places plus it on some boilers it adds to the insulation on the bottom of the boiler