Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
All-Purpose OWF Discussions => Plumbing => Topic started by: heat550 on August 27, 2015, 02:01:27 AM
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The one house only .
Ok I have 2 zones I want to add air exchangers . one upstairs one down stairs . Baseboards don't give off enough heat .
I have 6 zones total I'm heating . question is would 2- 12x18 air exchanges cause alot of drag on my water pump ?
I have a 011 taco pump . and next question whats the best control to use to kick fans on when zone is hot and calling for heat .
I have to drain lines so I need to install everything I need at once . ( trying to think of everything ) problem I have is when its
colder say below 15f waters nice and hot But Im not getting enough heat off the water its going back to the stove only
4-6 degrees cooler . after install 2 more air heat exchangers I will have one 18x20 ( garage ) qnd 2- 12x18 air exchangers in system
and the 6 zones total . for house 26x42 split entry finished upstair and down stairs and garage .
Heat550
all my zones are 3/4 pipe also . 1 inch pex al pex coming in from stove split in to 2 before going to all zone valves .
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First, before you go to all the trouble, it might be a good idea to remove the covers on the baseboard and clean the fins, they have a tendency to attract dust and pet hair and should be cleaned every few years!
Can you try to draw us a sketch of what you are currently doing?
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also baseboards are designed to have room below them for the cool air to be drawn in and over the fins, some times people have added carpet or a layer of new flooring without raising the baseboards and there is not sufficient air movement allowed for them to work properly
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First, before you go to all the trouble, it might be a good idea to remove the covers on the baseboard and clean the fins, they have a tendency to attract dust and pet hair and should be cleaned every few years!
Can you try to draw us a sketch of what you are currently doing?
I cleaned them last year . There was a bit of a collection :) but heres how I been doing it last 19 years . I only have baseboards in this house . it would always keep it 60-65 in living room dinning room same downstairs on really cold nights Im in Minnesota . so if i wanted it warmer say 72f I use the off peak electric heat to compensate this when winds blasting and super cold . But now it all changes because our electric rates are up 14 cent kw off peak is about half . and I have heatmor 400css I'm installing also . twice as big as last wood stove . I want the setup so I dont need any electric heat.:) air exchangers would give me more instant heat and more heat on cold windy days . My house is 1976 2x4 walls but i have newer windows and attic at about R50. I will make a drawing tomorrow . :thumbup:
Heat550
Side note baseboards in bedrooms keep it nice and warm bathroom ect .
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also baseboards are designed to have room below them for the cool air to be drawn in and over the fins, some times people have added carpet or a layer of new flooring without raising the baseboards and there is not sufficient air movement allowed for them to work properly
All mine over 3-4 inches above floors some even on top of electric baseboards :) very custom :) want to hear my cleaning process
big shop vac and air hose Did them last year again and same heat output . It seems air ex changers are the only fix . In other house im heating same outdoor stove it has 1- 12x18 exchanger and it heats whole house 28x48 no basement 75f last year and year before 1000 cfm fan on it . this what made me think hey I need to add some air ex changers in the other house :)
Heat550
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Ok, a diagram will certainly help, could more baseboard be added to the cold areas on the same heat loops? I personally am not a fan of the hot air units as they are noisy and consume power to run the fan!
They also are typically installed in a constantly flowing loop that keeps the rad hot all the time, this tends to overheat in the shoulder months. When I do use them, I try to set them up on an aqua stat off the return side of the rad that controls the fan and the circ is controlled off the thermostat, this eliminates the over heat situation.
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Here is just a ruff scratch what Im up to . I will make a better drawing later more details .
It should give you a bit of a idea . The water in is split in to 2 so I could plumb all zone valves .
in House 1 .
Heat550
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Just so you understand above drawings everything is done in 1996 I just want to add 2 air ex changers. one upstairs and one downstairs . Inside the upstairs and downstairs zones run fans off a aqua stat. zone valve would still be run by thermostat.
I was running water temp at 160f last 19 years . do to old 200css that was max . the new 400css I might be able to hit the 180f and that might wake up the baseboards a bit more .
Heat550
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You are going to be putting out at least another 100 btu per foot of baseboard if you go from 160-180. You can go to the slant fin website and look at the chart. Are you actually getting 160 to the baseboard if you are running that as a high number out at the owb, likely you are only getting 145-155 at the baseboard which means you are really putting out close to half the btu rating of the slant fin. I think this is your issue right there. While I don't have baseboard I do run my owb at 185 off and 175 on. Mine is a 24 year old hardy. I don't know why you wouldn't be able to run 180 even with your 200? I would put your temp up to 185 on your new boiler and wait to see how that does before you do all of this plumbing. Another good suggestion was to make sure that you have good air flow through the fin and that it has been cleaned. I think your going to be tipped over when you see how much heat the baseboard puts out if it gets 180 degree water.
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How much pipe are you planning to add to get to the heat exchangers? What size and kind of pipe is it?
How many feet of of baseboard in in the zone? Is there just a single pump on the system with zone valves or is there a pump on each zone?
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How much pipe are you planning to add to get to the heat exchangers? What size and kind of pipe is it?
How many feet of of baseboard in in the zone? Is there just a single pump on the system with zone valves or is there a pump on each zone?
There's only 1 pump for all zones. The upstairs baseboard about 20 feet long. That's where I want one air exchanger . downstairs about 25 feet of baseboard in that zone where I want to add air exchanger. Now it's all copper 3/4 inch . I would use pex oxygen barrier to hook up exchangers . was my thinking. I'm only going add
Enough pipe to hook up air exchangers under 10 foot pipe each. Maybe less. Thinking 12x18 exchangers. As far as length to get to baseboards length of house upstairs 40feet to get there 40 feet back. another big deal with my system I put pump at the lowest point.
If you checked it pump in basement would be about 2-3 feet below the outside boiler . in shop its about ground level and second house would be about 3 feet off the ground . my thought there was force water throw pumps . air back to the boiler . The pump in the house 1 with baseboards is a taco 011 pretty big one . rest are taco 007.
Heat550
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You are going to be putting out at least another 100 btu per foot of baseboard if you go from 160-180. You can go to the slant fin website and look at the chart. Are you actually getting 160 to the baseboard if you are running that as a high number out at the owb, likely you are only getting 145-155 at the baseboard which means you are really putting out close to half the btu rating of the slant fin. I think this is your issue right there. While I don't have baseboard I do run my owb at 185 off and 175 on. Mine is a 24 year old hardy. I don't know why you wouldn't be able to run 180 even with your 200? I would put your temp up to 185 on your new boiler and wait to see how that does before you do all of this plumbing. Another good suggestion was to make sure that you have good air flow through the fin and that it has been cleaned. I think your going to be tipped over when you see how much heat the baseboard puts out if it gets 180 degree water.
Interesting my total baseboards is 69 feet that's only 450 btu per foot 31,050 btus at 160f even if I push it to 180f its only going to get to 40,000 btus so I do need air ex changers . most houses around here have 60,000btu furnaces some have 80,000 btu furnaces . yes I was getting 160f to house stove ran 175f to 180 at top of the tank 190f at -20f fan on at 155f off at 175f my switch has about 5 degree swing . I held these temps because below 0 f the 200css stove was pretty nuts on dry oak My 4 foot extension is still blue from winter 2013-2014 my extension the old school super thick steel one (vortex scaring ). Thanks for this great info . pretty hard to believe 31,050btus was heating my house . still wrapping my head around it . Im sure theres btus coming off the copper pipe also . getting excited now to fix it up with my new 400 css double dragon hope its not to hard on my wood pile. :thumbup:
Heat550
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From what you said, it sounds like you won't have any trouble adding the heat exchangers. Use 1" pex though. 3/4" will add a lot more restriction.
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From what you said, it sounds like you won't have any trouble adding the heat exchangers. Use 1" pex though. 3/4" will add a lot more restriction.
Should I get 1 inch air exchanger also ? I can get 12x18 with 1 inch inlet and output?
Heat550
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Most heat exchangers will have 1" but 3/4" wouldn't be a problem. The pex is smaller than copper which is why I suggested going with 1"
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Most heat exchangers will have 1" but 3/4" wouldn't be a problem. The pex is smaller than copper which is why I suggested going with 1"
Ok I used the orange pex vapor barrier on the other house 1 inch on air exchanger.
My lines running from stove outside are pex al pex 1 inch . The change over is going to take alot of o rings and new clamp rings. I have 2 old kite tec fittings to replace also they seem to have
Corroding issue. Think there was a issue years ago. I had to replace
All the ones before at boiler. Thanks for all info about baseboards it was a eye opener. Will keep you posted on out comes . kinda a big project.
Heat550
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Heat, reading back on your post, you said you are running 175 on and 180 off but at the top of your tank you are getting 190, that is a pretty large temp differential within the stove, do you think there is a possibility that your water is not mixing well within the stove or possibly your aqua stat is not registering the proper temps, how are you checking those temps?
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Heat, reading back on your post, you said you are running 175 on and 180 off but at the top of your tank you are getting 190, that is a pretty large temp differential within the stove, do you think there is a possibility that your water is not mixing well within the stove or possibly your aqua stat is not registering the proper temps, how are you checking those temps?
Ok my default setting is 150f 155f on 170f 175f off on draft fan . But when it gets colder outside below -5f and its full of dry oak. when draft shuts off . Temp creeps up a bit for next about 15 mins+ . and It got as high as 190f this at top of tank . Mine draws super hard at colder temps. I have a 4 foot chimney on it . I have a touch temp checker and a touch less one also .
My average was 150f 160f to the house . I kept it there as to keep it from going nuts at colder temps . But you know this was 1996 200css and after reading I'm wondering if at colder temps it was tapping my draft fan door because it was drawing so hard. It might of needed a weight on it . But now don't forget I have a 5500 sqft heating load on the stove . and even at -25f and wind
it would still cycle the fan on and off . so yes at that temp everything would be pulling heat big time . But thats when I noticed blue shades on chimney also :) Super dry oak is a pretty crazy force . Do a search on my post about white flames . But now I get to relearn my new 400css well see what it does at 5500ft heat load :) double dragon :) Might not have to go out so much is my goal :)
and your right about mixing if math is correct I would of been at total 24 gpm + with the 3 pumps .. but thats another thing whats GPM on a 2 taco 007 and 011 with no pressure 1 inch line, smallest 3/4 in baseboards. and how did that much water circulate in a u shaped tank when I looked in there I didn't see any plates for mixing in the 200css I will have to look in the new 400css.
Heat550
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Without installing an actual flow meter or seeing your configuration it would be very hard to guess at the flow rate, I normally assume a flow of around 7 GPM with the 007 and about 20 GPM on the 26-99 but again pipe sizing and 90's definitely can cut that back drastically.
Did you ever check the water temp at the top of your boiler with the fan on or was that just with it off and seeing the temp creep?
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Without installing an actual flow meter or seeing your configuration it would be very hard to guess at the flow rate, I normally assume a flow of around 7 GPM with the 007 and about 20 GPM on the 26-99 but again pipe sizing and 90's definitely can cut that back drastically.
Did you ever check the water temp at the top of your boiler with the fan on or was that just with it off and seeing the temp creep?
Lets say even 7gpm with the 007 and 10gpm with the 011 that be 24 GPM on mine . Only was checking when fan shut off . I was like whats going on .
Heat550
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Without installing an actual flow meter or seeing your configuration it would be very hard to guess at the flow rate, I normally assume a flow of around 7 GPM with the 007 and about 20 GPM on the 26-99 but again pipe sizing and 90's definitely can cut that back drastically.
Did you ever check the water temp at the top of your boiler with the fan on or was that just with it off and seeing the temp creep?
Could I put in a flow meter in do they make them without braking the bank ?
Heat550
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Without installing an actual flow meter or seeing your configuration it would be very hard to guess at the flow rate, I normally assume a flow of around 7 GPM with the 007 and about 20 GPM on the 26-99 but again pipe sizing and 90's definitely can cut that back drastically.
Did you ever check the water temp at the top of your boiler with the fan on or was that just with it off and seeing the temp creep?
Bit of info my 1 pex can only supply 10 gpm so no matter what I put in for a pump its not going over that. And I'm splitting it so my average will only be 4.5 to 5 throw 3/4 inch copper. So air exchangers will be 5 gpm.
Heat550
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I agree with slim I don't think your water temp coming in the house is hot enough! I have my temp set on my stove at195 ! I use to ruñn it at 175 it made a big difference with my base bord, mybe you loosing heat coming thru your pex in the house!
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From what you said, it sounds like you won't have any trouble adding the heat exchangers. Use 1" pex though. 3/4" will add a lot more restriction.
I was talking to guy at dealer about pump size . Im 125ft house to boiler 69 feet of baseboard and 6 zone valves one exchanger in garage 120,000. now if I add another exchanger will the one taco 011 push water thur all that ? I have 1 inch pex between house and boiler and 3/4 copper in house . if i add exchanger it will be one inch pex . dealers saying I should put another 011 going out on boiler return line . I searched how to figure out head pressure theres a brain twister . also another pumps $200 . What do others do
to figure out head pressure on a semi open system . I do know the one taco 011 I was running was making about 5-6 psi pump pressure. 1gpm to 10,000 btus . Its seems GPM pretty hard to really know on a each system .
heat550
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Do you have temp gauges on the supply and return at the boiler, if so and under full load you are seeing more than a 20 degree differential between the supply and return then you will need to either up the pipe size or add another line set, adding a second circ on that short of a run may make the water travel to fast which causes excessive noise as well as premature fitting and pipe wear
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Do you have temp gauges on the supply and return at the boiler, if so and under full load you are seeing more than a 20 degree differential between the supply and return then you will need to either up the pipe size or add another line set, adding a second circ on that short of a run may make the water travel to fast which causes excessive noise as well as premature fitting and pipe wear
Im thinking I will add the extra exchanger . and just see if the 011 will do it . I looked back in my pictures and I was getting 10 psi pump pressure on the incoming line right after the pump . at 150f
I can always add a pump later if I really need it . Also I will have ball valves to adjust inplace to adjust flow if needed also . If I can average 5 GPM to7 GPM I think it be enough . because with baseboards
I was only getting 33,000 btus house never dropped below 58f even in 2014 . Im having a feeling with bigger stove constant water temp lot of my issues with heat will fix them selfs . 200css I was having to much up and down
temp changing as fire only last 7 hours at -10f and I sleep 8-10 hours :) also looked my temp difference with just baseboards was only 9-12 degrees drop at 160f even when house was 60f ( all zones open )
heat550
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HEat,
I just installed and fired up my new 400CSS as well.....One suggestion i would make is to change out the aquastat right away. The honeywell that comes on it has a maxx high set point of 180F.
I like to to run my stoves a bit hotter. Also, the differential setting on the stock aquastat was just off a bit, when set at 165 on and 180 off...it was really coming on at 158 and going off at 170.
After messing with it for a few hours after the inital firing i just switched it out for my old one. it only took 5 min and eliminated the problem immediately. Just figured i would pass this info on to ya!!!
Overall i love the stove tho, man it is a beauty to watch in action!!!!!!
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HEat,
I just installed and fired up my new 400CSS as well.....One suggestion i would make is to change out the aquastat right away. The honeywell that comes on it has a maxx high set point of 180F.
I like to to run my stoves a bit hotter. Also, the differential setting on the stock aquastat was just off a bit, when set at 165 on and 180 off...it was really coming on at 158 and going off at 170.
After messing with it for a few hours after the inital firing i just switched it out for my old one. it only took 5 min and eliminated the problem immediately. Just figured i would pass this info on to ya!!!
Overall i love the stove tho, man it is a beauty to watch in action!!!!!!
Ok will keep that in mind as I have old stat also . does the double fans make big difference . I bet it heats up quick. Here I'm working on tractor to get it ready for moving stove. Old 200css is all drained and ready for disconnect. I just bought the bubble foil to put between stove and base . need to get some tubs of black sealant to seal inside firebox before putting sand in . how many 5 gallon pales of sand do you think it will take ? It's awesome you got it all fired up
Keep me posted in your findings . and I will let you know where I'm at. I'm hoping to fire mine up by Nov 1 .getting tractor going for the lift is slowing me down a bit .
Heat550
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Heat,
the double fans are pretty insane....burns like a blacksmiths forge.....gets hott real quick. Only takes about 7-10 min to get up to temp. It took a lot of sand, i got 1 cubic yard of sand and it almost took the whole thing!
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I know my 200css was bit crazy even with one fan and dry oak . Check out my white flames post . 2 fans now its goes to be pretty crazy . I just got old plumbing all unhooked yes all 3 zones bit of a plumbing nightmare :) Getting excited for dis Assembly because Im taking it apart right there tank off base . shedding it outer skin . It was interesting to look in a 19 year old tank it looks new yet :o going to try see spot where its leaking from inside with auto cam on flexible rod tomorrow . maybe next week I can get that all disassembled . I did notice inside tank that little grey coating just in bottom and top of tank .its from the anode rode i had in there in 1996 and I put a new one in 1998 . what they were doing is expanding so much as pulled them out white stuff would peel off them to get them out . So ya that was more trouble then it was worth . you touch the white stuff and steels like new underneath. anyone has idea why and what for there I like to hear it :) Also How do you like the new door latch on the 400dcss . seems bit different.. also on another point . I,m going to replace the new door hoses on my 400dcss with silicone hose ( semi heater hose ) its rated for 50psi working pressure and 350f . its some awesome stuff :) on my old 200css I had same hose on it for 3 years and soft just like its still new. its the blue hose pretty spend y though. I don't like change them door hoses :) Its messy . So Im going for max life on hoses . they do have 600f hose but that's over kill I think .
Heat550
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Do you have temp gauges on the supply and return at the boiler, if so and under full load you are seeing more than a 20 degree differential between the supply and return then you will need to either up the pipe size or add another line set, adding a second circ on that short of a run may make the water travel to fast which causes excessive noise as well as premature fitting and pipe wear
After researching how baseboards work . Im thinking of changing my system . Im thinking direct to hot water heater then 1 big air ex changer in house and run bit of duct work from it so exchanger alone could heat the house The way washroom is I can get ducts to most rooms. and hook up the garage air ex changer also . So just them 2 air ex-changers have direct boiler water . Then make all baseboard heaters in house a separate system add exspantion tank and a pump air bleeder etc . and use a plate style exchanger about 60,000 btus Its alot of work but . If I do it this way . Theres 2 great positives . first if older baseboards spring a leak I will only get 25 gallons in house not 155 gallons . and next positive . when its not as cold I can just run the baseboard system ( no fan noise ) But if we get polar vortex cold I can switch on Fan forced air system . Does this sound like good idea .
I would have like total 133,000 btu max for a house 42x26 double story . with 11x20 addition 2400 sqft also any good diagrams to help me out how to plumb my baseboard system . I have expansion tank and another 007 pump I need to have good idea how to plumb it before I start cutting things apart .
Heat550
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I myself work better with drawings, could you give us a rough sketch of your place and we will try to help.
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Heat,
the double fans are pretty insane....burns like a blacksmiths forge.....gets hott real quick. Only takes about 7-10 min to get up to temp. It took a lot of sand, i got 1 cubic yard of sand and it almost took the whole thing!
Here is where I'm at 200css is getting naked . Taking tank off base tomorrow to check out leak. This is where the new 400dcss is being installed . base is to wide for new 400 but need to add 18 inch length going with 1/4 inch steel plate and over construction steel super heavy duty bolted to sides of existing base so it all floats with base cement. don't need any frost pushing issues. making it so 1/4 steel plate is replaceable if down the road if needs replacing . Heres what a 19 year old heatmor 200css looks like . will send pictures of leak later tomorrow . Funny thing everything looks pretty new . check out what the smoke stack looks like after 6,000,000,000 btus pasted thru it :)
Heat550
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I myself work better with drawings, could you give us a rough sketch of your place and we will try to help.
I did some math and seems my best bet is to have a primary loop and feeds the zones off that with IFC pumps . But there's acouple things I don't quite get .
if the primary loop has a pump size 011 taco. what size should the IFC pumps be ? does it matter . Ones going to 100,000 btu air exchanger and other is going to another air 100,000btu air exchanger .
and I need to hook up my hot domestic also Going to try and keep everything 1 inch pipe. . And later project is the baseboard system . Just going put in valves for that for now . I will draw up a diagram here .
I been busy with setting boiler yet base upgrades etc . Need schooling on IFC pumps . Its all about flow you know . :thumbup:
Heat550
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If going with primary and secondary loops, the pumps should be sizes for their loop. All the primary loop has to do is supply enough flow for the secondary loops. The head pressure will be different in the primary and secondary loops.
Is that pipe 20 year old Kitec? Is it still in good condition? Is there any bubbling up of the inner layer inside the pipe?
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If going with primary and secondary loops, the pumps should be sizes for their loop. All the primary loop has to do is supply enough flow for the secondary loops. The head pressure will be different in the primary and secondary loops.
Heat550
Is that pipe 20 year old Kitec? Is it still in good condition? Is there any bubbling up of the inner layer inside the pipe?
Ends coming out of ground look great like new . should I be looking for other issues ? I have sticker in the shop of what it was 20 years ago. I replaced kitec ends they were Corroding.
With the loops I need to look how I can do it. Do pumps have to be eqaul like example primary 10 gpm so 2 zones you want 2- 5 gpm IFC pumps. Found 1/2 pex I have in shop slab. I bought it all same year. Can't find 1 inch sticker for pex al pex. might need to scope it might need one of these .
Heat550
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If going with primary and secondary loops, the pumps should be sizes for their loop. All the primary loop has to do is supply enough flow for the secondary loops. The head pressure will be different in the primary and secondary loops.
Is that pipe 20 year old Kitec? Is it still in good condition? Is there any bubbling up of the inner layer inside the pipe?
Here is a ruff sketch of new and improved lay out . I have a 011 taco for primary and I will have to buy some 007 IFC pumps .
I'm not going to hook up the baseboards yet as that will be separate loop system that need some TLC yet . will put valves in for it .
My goal is to increase flow to ex-changers . using primary and secondary loops style setup. I only have the out door boiler . no other boiler . primary total will be about total pipe run of 270 ft that's pipe in and out all 1 inch pex al pex and pex barrier inside. secondary loop one will be about 10 feet pipe 1 inch pex barrier . garage loop will be about 40 feet total pipe that copper and pex barrier. these are just my ideas after reading on net and with your tips . please feel free to give me pointers . I know I need put valves in for each loop and some air bleeders . I see they have 1 inch pex valves with drains in supply house :) that will make life easier. Thanks for all the info . with bit of rain and delays boilers getting set this Saturday hopefully
Heat550 .
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Are your circs all on the return sides? If so air elimination would be easier to achieve if they were all on the supply side, also your domestic hot water could be done with a mono flow tee instead of a circ because you will want a constant flow through it without restricting the primary loop.
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Thanks for the reply . The pump is on the incoming side now. That's how the old system was. I will read up on mono tee that's a good idea. I was looking lastnight and lines from stove are across the room from where all the plumbing need to be . so I'll keep primary pump at lowest point . but lines will have to go overhead to get to wall where all zone pumps and exchanger needs to be. The one for future baseboards exchanger plate will still be about 3 feet from primary pump though. Domestic water will be about 4 feet . primary pump right by the wall where lines come in the house. Building the systems going take bit of time.
Heat550
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It always does, post an updated drawing if you can.
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It always does, post an updated drawing if you can.
Ok the pump is the supply side coming in . I shorted the primary loop as I think that's wiser . 6-7 feet is distance from the walls .
Ruff draft number 2 . Im thinking of using pex 1 inch valves with drains for air bleeding and draining for future issues . on that mono flow does the secondary loop pipe have to be smaller . ? will get more detailed drawing when I have more time . Got boiler base already for putting boiler on tonight . Saturday is the day if no rain . next week order parts inside plumbing . See what you think of this layout . The fans on ex changers will be smaller . garage is kept 50f and bump it up when working out there . House exchanger fan will be the biggest about 1000 CFM . :thumbup:
Heat550
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Ok, why 2 hot water tanks? If you really think that both are necessary then they should be in parallel with a sidearm or use a plate exchanger. Next, the primary loop should be at least 1 1/4 copper if your air exchangers are going to be 1 inch and the future plate exchanger can be plumbed directly into the primary loop without a circulator.
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Ok, why 2 hot water tanks? If you really think that both are necessary then they should be in parallel with a sidearm or use a plate exchanger. Next, the primary loop should be at least 1 1/4 copper if your air exchangers are going to be 1 inch and the future plate exchanger can be plumbed directly into the primary loop without a circulator.
Ok 2 water heaters are for off peak electric :) parallel it is . Line coming in from boiler is 1 inch . I could go 1 inch primary loop and 3/4 to secondary loops . Or would going from 1 to 1 1/4 in side have an advantage ? I like as much flow as I could get with 1 inch from boiler. I can valve off for plate ex changer 3 valves .
Heat550
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You have got it! The 1 1/4 will reduce resistance at the 90 s and tees
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You have got it! The 1 1/4 will reduce resistance at the 90 s and tees
Ok I see now I can get by without a exspantion tank right. And now I will have search 1 1/4. would pex work. I m thinking copper would be spendy. Thanks for all the input. Will search 1 1/4 now . 😀
Heat550
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I like copper! Pex could be used but it typically looks like crap and by the time you buy the fittings, they are pretty close to the same price, also remember that if yo do have a leak, pex typically cannot be reused whereas copper can
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That's a pretty good point. I'll see what I can find . :thumbup:
Heat550
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I like copper! Pex could be used but it typically looks like crap and by the time you buy the fittings, they are pretty close to the same price, also remember that if yo do have a leak, pex typically cannot be reused whereas copper can
11/4 x11/4x1 tees are a bit spendy on the pex side.need 8 would going with 1 1/4 on inside loop from 1 inch from stove be worth extra $$ . whats best online supplyer of 1 1/4 pex. Reason going with pex I have crimp tool. I'll have to keep washroom door shut :thumbup:
Heat550
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Are your circs all on the return sides? If so air elimination would be easier to achieve if they were all on the supply side, also your domestic hot water could be done with a mono flow tee instead of a circ because you will want a constant flow through it without restricting the primary loop.
Pex mono flow where would you find these ? and do I need 1 or 2 of them for my hot domestic water heater. I seen you can put 2 going in opposite direction for more flow . but I would guess more restriction also . I going with 1 inch pipe on everything except 3/4 to domestic hot water side arm I seen price on 1 1/4 $$$$$$ . coppers cheaper then pex but still wow $$$$$. pex 1 1/4 tees like 27 bucks crazy .
Heat550
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Heres idea for domestic side arm .put 2 tees in primary loop them put ball valve in between the 2 tees . you can adjust the flow with ball valve . bit like adjustable mono flow. I'm sure someone else dreamed this up before. This also work on plate exchanger for adjustment. So you would have controll where how much go where. :bag:
Heat550