Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
Outdoor Furnaces - Manufacturers WITH EPA-Certified Models => HeatMaster => Topic started by: hondaracer2oo4 on October 14, 2015, 06:13:59 PM
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So I wanted to take a few minutes and put in a good word for SlimJim. As some of you may have seen I bought SlimJim's show boiler that he ran this fair season. The deal was when he was done with it after Fryeburg he would deliver it to me. Well he dropped it off this morning with his new school bus work truck and new brindle that he built, both are top notch! He easily backed right in and dropped the G200 right on my pad(which was quite unlevel from 5 years of heaving). Richard left me with a few feet of truck heater hose which he likes to hook up from the pex to the pump flange incase of heaving or movement between the pad and the lines. It worked out really slick, anyone who has tried to hook up 1 inch pex before knows what I am talking about. I had the stove hooked up in about an hour. Richard had left the charcoal and some firewood in the firebox from the last burn at the fryeburg fair. He had not cleaned the stove in 15 full days of running. The small amount of ash in the secondary and the primary box was impressive for 15 full days of run time. I added some newspaper and kindling to the firebox and lit it up. At about the 5 minute mark it was already gassing! It took about 2.5 hours to come up to temp and shut down. I had seen the unit running at Richards before so I knew that it really does put out zero smoke as soon as it starts to gas and the same was true today. As soon as it was gassing the only thing you could see was the heat waves. Ill keep everyone updated on how it runs. I took some pics, the first couple are 5 minutes from light up in the secondary chamber. The third one is the stack and lack of smoke!
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Glad to hear it.
Must have completely different soils up/over there.
I have several slabs we poured around here at the farm, none have ever heaved. Did a 12x16 slab for a garden shed and my boiler slab over 15 years ago and both are still level. Take the loader. take out soil that has organic material, then replace with sand and pack, take a dirt shovel and work around the outside one shovel deep to make a mini footer. All our grain bins are monolithic pours with footers not even a couple foot deep.
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Good to hear and see it running well. I am changing out my P&M this weekend, which was undersized, for my new G400. Wasn't sure if I was going to get it done due to shoulder surgery(don't tear your rotator cuff-it's a bitch) but I sold my P&M so has to be done now. Will be changing some of my piping and adding load which slim has been helpful with advice also. It will be interesting to compare the operation of the G400 to my P&M both for smoke and wood consumption. We'll have to compare notes as the season goes on.
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So day 1 is in the books. Last night temps were about 33 degrees for an overnight low. I threw in two splits last night on top of a 2 inch or so coal bed that was mostly around the nozzle area. The splits were about 6-8 inches at the widest part and 24 inches long. I came out at 5:45 to load the stove before work. Water temp was 169 and the draft fan was running. Upon opening up I had very few coals left and just a couple of small pieces left whole still from the two splits(should have probably put in two more splits last night). I threw in some smaller kindling ontop of the coals that I raked togeather and then loaded logs(probably 6 splits of 4-6 inches in diameter ontop of that. I piled them into a triangle right over the center and the last log ontop of the pile landed at the bottom of the door lip. Temps today peaked around 60 degrees in the afternoon. When I got home around 7 pm tonight the inducer was not running and the temp was at 175. Opening up I found two logs left about half burned and a decent coal bed. I broke down the logs that were left as much as they would, cleared the nozzle and evened out the coals. I piled up 4 splits on top of the nozzle area. Tonight calls for 42 degrees for a low. We will see if tonight I will have good coals left at 6am. So something new that I saw happen tonight was the stove went into some type of purge mode? The owners manual doesn't talk about it that I saw. It said something to the effect of "Purge Cycle" and counted down from 2 minutes and 30 seconds. It ran the inducer fan during this cycle. The stove was at 165 at that point. The two minutes were just long enough for the boiler to start gassing before it shut back down. I assume this happens after so many minutes of non running but I would be curious to know how long that is.
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Central Boilers do that as well on their E series, is to make sure your coals stay lit so when it does call for heat it will have enough hot coals to take off and burn, probably also helps to keep the refractory hot so it gasifies as close to possible to immediately.
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That makes sense. I would be interested to know what the interval is with no firing before it kicks on. This morning was 41 degrees and I has three partials left out of the 4 I added last night. I don't have a lot of loose coals, I am thinking I should try to build up a coal bed but I'm not sure. Hopefully slim can chime in.
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I can't remember what the interval is off the top of my head! Yes go ahead and build up a bed of coals, the G-series does not seem to be affected as much as other gassers by nozzle plugging, 2-6 inches of coal and ash seems to work very well!
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Thanks Richard. I'll get a bed built up.
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So I wanted to take a few minutes and put in a good word for SlimJim. As some of you may have seen I bought SlimJim's show boiler that he ran this fair season. The deal was when he was done with it after Fryeburg he would deliver it to me. Well he dropped it off this morning with his new school bus work truck and new brindle that he built, both are top notch! He easily backed right in and dropped the G200 right on my pad(which was quite unlevel from 5 years of heaving). Richard left me with a few feet of truck heater hose which he likes to hook up from the pex to the pump flange incase of heaving or movement between the pad and the lines. It worked out really slick, anyone who has tried to hook up 1 inch pex before knows what I am talking about. I had the stove hooked up in about an hour. Richard had left the charcoal and some firewood in the firebox from the last burn at the fryeburg fair. He had not cleaned the stove in 15 full days of running. The small amount of ash in the secondary and the primary box was impressive for 15 full days of run time. I added some newspaper and kindling to the firebox and lit it up. At about the 5 minute mark it was already gassing! It took about 2.5 hours to come up to temp and shut down. I had seen the unit running at Richards before so I knew that it really does put out zero smoke as soon as it starts to gas and the same was true today. As soon as it was gassing the only thing you could see was the heat waves. Ill keep everyone updated on how it runs. I took some pics, the first couple are 5 minutes from light up in the secondary chamber. The third one is the stack and lack of smoke!
Awesome!!! I can say I did see your stove at the fair lol.. Yeah def keep us posted!
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When I was talking to the factory about the G400 this summer, I asked them about the unit cycling to keep the fire going or maintain a coal bed so it didn't go out in mild weather. I was told if the unit does not call for heat for a hour it will cycle once per hour to maintain the fire in the firebox. I thought they said it would run for 5 minutes but that may have been for a G400. I do wish the manuals were more in depth in a lot more areas also. My G400 will be half in and half out of my wood shed and I need to find a way to alert me if or when the red warning light comes on at the control panel. Swapping it out today, hope all goes well.
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I am sure everything will go fine.
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When I was talking to the factory about the G400 this summer, I asked them about the unit cycling to keep the fire going or maintain a coal bed so it didn't go out in mild weather. I was told if the unit does not call for heat for a hour it will cycle once per hour to maintain the fire in the firebox. I thought they said it would run for 5 minutes but that may have been for a G400. I do wish the manuals were more in depth in a lot more areas also. My G400 will be half in and half out of my wood shed and I need to find a way to alert me if or when the red warning light comes on at the control panel. Swapping it out today, hope all goes well.
This is a pretty easy fix actually, easiest would be to mount a little mirror and aim it so you can see it from the house when the light is on. If this isn’t possible contact Heatmaster and clear it with them then purchase another LED warning light from them, mount it in a weather tight box and run two wires to the original light in the stove.
When we upgraded corn dryers the new one is quiet enough can barely hear it in the house. Also has automatic moisture controls, so I ran a conduit over to the control shed for the grain leg and dump pit, mounted four LED lights in it that I can see from the house, can look out the kitchen window, office window or sit up in bed and look out the bedroom window to see whats going on.
Green for normal.
Yellow for slow speed (corn being discharged is wetter than the set point)
Blue for high speed (corn being discharged is dryer than the set point)
Red for emergency stop.
Nice not having to get up every couple of hours, putting all the warm clothes on and having to walk out and manually check it like with the old one.
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My G200 was installed a couple of months ago (mid-September). My experience so far, however, has not been quite as straightforward as others would appear to have been.
Lots of smoke, daily re-lights, substantial (?) fuel consumption and, it seems inevitably, the damper running throughout the night (under our bedroom window) until cold start temp is reached.
The temperatures here (NC) have remained quite warm so conditions are far from ideal to evaluate the G200 performance. My lack of experience with OWFs is another major factor although I understand these G models are quite different from traditional systems. Apparent senility may also be something of a hindrance ::) . That said, despite being told "everything will be fine when it gets really cold!", I am still seriously struggling - and failing - to understand how to optimize this equipment and its burn cycle.
To date, I have burned through 1.5 cords of kiln-dried hardwood, the energy from which has largely, ultimately, been wasted - mostly due to my own inability to clearly think through that cycle.
Has any one developed any kind of optimization models for these devices under varying ambient conditions?
Like: how long does it take to get from 74 F to 180 F when it's 35 F outside? how much fuel does that take? how long to cool down from 180 F- 160 F when its 45 F outside - or to get down to cold start when its 65 F, etc... helping figure out when to light the fire, with how many sticks of wood, so that the water temp is still reasonable in the morning, the damper hasn't run all night ...and so on?
The more I think about it, the more variables I find need to be built in to the model. So, if I have to build my own, it would be nice to not have to start entirely from scratch?
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One month update, no news is good news. First off running it is super easy. Loading the boiler I break down the coals and even them out across the bottom. I put a big piece right over the nozzle and then stack up the rest of the wood over that, stacking th wood tightly togeather gives best performance. I had my first bridge out last night. It was totally my fault, I placed a big knotty piece over the nozzle coupled with a warm day so very few full burns other than the purge modes. I cleaned out the ashes from the lower chamber after 1 month and and had about three spade shovel fulls. I opened up the upper chamber where the inducer fan is and the exchanger tubes dump into. I had a hint of ash up there but that was it. As far as consumption I have gone through about 3/4 of a cord so far. I am hoping to burn 7 cords for 6 months of burning. I think I will be right on that. Great product heatmaster!
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When I was talking to the factory about the G400 this summer, I asked them about the unit cycling to keep the fire going or maintain a coal bed so it didn't go out in mild weather. I was told if the unit does not call for heat for a hour it will cycle once per hour to maintain the fire in the firebox. I thought they said it would run for 5 minutes but that may have been for a G400. I do wish the manuals were more in depth in a lot more areas also. My G400 will be half in and half out of my wood shed and I need to find a way to alert me if or when the red warning light comes on at the control panel. Swapping it out today, hope all goes well.
My 400 runs for three minutes if no call for heat in one hour.
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Hello.
New to the forum, I wanted to do a review for the people on the forum also for readers that r just cruising threw looking for good info.
I purchased a HeatMaster ss G-200 back in August. After doing a lot of research on many different brands that are out there. Looking at all materials used in the different units and how they hold up. I learned that mild steel, boiler plate, 304 stainless steel, cast iron, are not the materials that are the best. They all have problems with heat transfer, cracking, water leaks, rapid corrosion. The 409 stainless steal overcomes all that.
After seeing one in operation at the Boonville NY logging show. I was impressed with the quality and amount of stainless that is used in the units.I purchased one that was at the show. and the dealer delivered it on his way home. Thank you Bob.
I removed my old marathon boiler which was way to small for my house and garage that I added. I Installed the G-200 in a few days it was up n running.
With dual inlet and outlet ports it was easy hookup, one set to house one set to garage.
Fired it up pretty easy to do with the blower on,smoked a little until it started to gasify then it cleared up and just heat waves out the stack. I burned pine until mid November with no problems and plenty of heat on the cold nights. Switching over to hardwood in November. It has been warmer this winter than last. I have been getting about 20hour burn time on the wood, just heating the house on a 28*F nights.
HeatMaster made it easy to clean the heat exchanger tubes with the external handle. And the smoke bypass pulls the smoke away from you while you are loading. Easy ash removal on bottom less than a minute to do, maybe twice a month.
I am very happy with this unit and the support I have received not only from the dealer and distributor Slimjim but at the factory level also. They all will answer the phone and return your calls.
Thank you HeatMaster ss for building a quality outside wood furnace.
Best regards , smokeless.
Sent from my iPhone
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Hello.
New to the forum, I wanted to do a review for the people on the forum also for readers that r just cruising threw looking for good info.
I purchased a HeatMaster ss G-200 back in August. After doing a lot of research on many different brands that are out there. Looking at all materials used in the different units and how they hold up. I learned that mild steel, boiler plate, 304 stainless steel, cast iron, are not the materials that are the best. They all have problems with heat transfer, cracking, water leaks, rapid corrosion. The 409 stainless steal overcomes all that.
After seeing one in operation at the Boonville NY logging show. I was impressed with the quality and amount of stainless that is used in the units.I purchased one that was at the show. and the dealer delivered it on his way home. Thank you Bob.
I removed my old marathon boiler which was way to small for my house and garage that I added. I Installed the G-200 in a few days it was up n running.
With dual inlet and outlet ports it was easy hookup, one set to house one set to garage.
Fired it up pretty easy to do with the blower on,smoked a little until it started to gasify then it cleared up and just heat waves out the stack. I burned pine until mid November with no problems and plenty of heat on the cold nights. Switching over to hardwood in November. It has been warmer this winter than last. I have been getting about 20hour burn time on the wood, just heating the house on a 28*F nights.
HeatMaster made it easy to clean the heat exchanger tubes with the external handle. And the smoke bypass pulls the smoke away from you while you are loading. Easy ash removal on bottom less than a minute to do, maybe twice a month.
I am very happy with this unit and the support I have received not only from the dealer and distributor Slimjim but at the factory level also. They all will answer the phone and return your calls.
Thank you HeatMaster ss for building a quality outside wood furnace.
Best regards , smokeless.
Sent from my iPhone
:post:
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It's been a long time coming to get you on here smokeless, Welcome Aboard and ThankYou for the great review.
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My G200 was installed a couple of months ago (mid-September). My experience so far, however, has not been quite as straightforward as others would appear to have been.
Lots of smoke, daily re-lights, substantial (?) fuel consumption and, it seems inevitably, the damper running throughout the night (under our bedroom window) until cold start temp is reached.
The temperatures here (NC) have remained quite warm so conditions are far from ideal to evaluate the G200 performance. My lack of experience with OWFs is another major factor although I understand these G models are quite different from traditional systems. Apparent senility may also be something of a hindrance ::) . That said, despite being told "everything will be fine when it gets really cold!", I am still seriously struggling - and failing - to understand how to optimize this equipment and its burn cycle.
To date, I have burned through 1.5 cords of kiln-dried hardwood, the energy from which has largely, ultimately, been wasted - mostly due to my own inability to clearly think through that cycle.
Has any one developed any kind of optimization models for these devices under varying ambient conditions?
Like: how long does it take to get from 74 F to 180 F when it's 35 F outside? how much fuel does that take? how long to cool down from 180 F- 160 F when its 45 F outside - or to get down to cold start when its 65 F, etc... helping figure out when to light the fire, with how many sticks of wood, so that the water temp is still reasonable in the morning, the damper hasn't run all night ...and so on?
The more I think about it, the more variables I find need to be built in to the model. So, if I have to build my own, it would be nice to not have to start entirely from scratch?
Sorry to hear of your troubles. Have you contacted your local dealer yet?
First thing on some of your questions a lot of variables have to be taken into account. What size house, what temp are you trying to keep the house, quality of insulation and windows, what type of underground pipe, what kind of hardwood, and so on.
Whats the actual moisture of your wood? To get the best reading really need to split a piece and check a fresh face.
I’ll PM you my cell and we can talk if your still having problems.
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Marty, if you do have a chance to speak with him in person, Please let us know the outcome as his experience could prove to invaluable to others suffering from like experiences, can you get him approved to post ASAP?
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Marty, if you do have a chance to speak with him in person, Please let us know the outcome as his experience could prove to invaluable to others suffering from like experiences, can you get him approved to post ASAP?
Already have my friend, I bumped his post count up to 11 so he can post at will.
A work around found by the Slopster.
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Yes he called me yesterday and told me about the loophole that he found, Thank you both for your hard work!
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Watkincm, I sent you a PM with my contact info, I'm not sure how often you are on here but rather than trying to muddle through your issues on your own, Please allow us to help, you should now be able to post on your own and we will be watching, feel free to give me a call as well if you wish.
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Watkincm, I'm not sure how far you have come in your troubleshooting of your G Series but hopefully Marty and Richard have been able to help you identify your problem. One thing came to mind when you said that the blower runs throughout the night and the unit smokes a lot.. The next time the boiler calls for heat and the blower kicks on, take the cover off of the damper and ensure that it is rotating all the way to the open position. It is possible that the damper is not rotating enough during a cycle which would not allow the furnace to fully gasify and would cause it to run longer each time to reach the 180 deg. set point especially while it's under a load. How much area are you heating with your unit?
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Watkincm, I'm not sure how far you have come in your troubleshooting of your G Series but hopefully Marty and Richard have been able to help you identify your problem. One thing came to mind when you said that the blower runs throughout the night and the unit smokes a lot.. The next time the boiler calls for heat and the blower kicks on, take the cover off of the damper and ensure that it is rotating all the way to the open position. It is possible that the damper is not rotating enough during a cycle which would not allow the furnace to fully gasify and would cause it to run longer each time to reach the 180 deg. set point especially while it's under a load. How much area are you heating with your unit?
:post:
I would definitely check your damper. Undo the cover on the front of the stove with the snap latch, set the cover off to the side, then grab the round disc (the damper) with a finger and your thumb and see if you can rotate it slightly in each direction, if you can’t move it not only may it not be opening all the way, but it also might not be closing all the way which can greatly add to your creosote problem.
The third morning I had my G400 running I woke up to see a little smoke coming out of the stack even though it wasn’t calling for heat, the damper wasn’t closed all the way but I could still move the plate. Turns out the shaft that runs thru the damper motor and turns the plate was inserted too far into the damper motor and was bottoming out in the recess the end of the shaft fits in on the stove itself. I loosened the lock bolt on the damper itself that takes a 10mm wrench and slid it out not even a 1/16” of an inch and that was the end of the problem. To be fair though, my 400 was also the demonstration stove at a dealer meeting and it was gone over numerous times thru the day and maybe something got moved or tweaked different than it came from the factory.
I’ve also found if you remove the two quarter inch bolts that take a 7/16” wrench that holds the damper motor on to clean your damper when reinstalling tighten the bolts finger tight then you can still move the damper motor around a fraction of a inch in either direction, move it round till it feels like that shaft is centered in the recess then retighten the two bolts, if slid all the way in one direction then retightened I think this could also cause the shaft to bind. Like I said, I think it could, it’s only happened once and never did it again.
Another thing I did with more was after the damper stuck open the damper itself (the round disc with two tapered slots cut in it) was creosoted up and its mating surface on the stove, I simply used my pocket knife to scrape it off, then lightly hit it with a scotchbrite pad then sprayed both surfaces with Fluid Film and in a moon it still moves as free as when I serviced it over a month ago. Fluid Film is hard to beat, is like WD40, PBlaster, Never Seize and cosmoline all in the same can.
Given your area as well until winter actually starts you may have to do like Garn users or European users of gasifiers do and learn to batch burn.
Not exactly what you’ll have, but an interesting read regardless.
http://www.lowcarboneconomy.com/profile/eco_angus_ltd/_case_studies_and_projects/case_study_of_a_wood_gasification_log_boiler_in_a_6_bedroom_house_in_wrington_north_somerset/14404
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I wish that poster would come back so that we could handle his issues.
On another note I have looked at this Seimens Logo control stuff a little bit. It seems like it has a lot of capabilities. I wish that it could take input from a thermocouple so that we could see what the reaction chamber temps were running at. I also wish that they had placed a PT100 sensor above the heat exchanger tubes so that we could know what temps were exiting. I think that the PT sensor about the exchanger tubes could be done without much modifications. Anyone know how to connect the PT sensor into the Controller and have it read out?
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I wish that poster would come back so that we could handle his issues.
On another note I have looked at this Seimens Logo control stuff a little bit. It seems like it has a lot of capabilities. I wish that it could take input from a thermocouple so that we could see what the reaction chamber temps were running at. I also wish that they had placed a PT100 sensor above the heat exchanger tubes so that we could know what temps were exiting. I think that the PT sensor about the exchanger tubes could be done without much modifications. Anyone know how to connect the PT sensor into the Controller and have it read out?
I’ve thought the same, but was going to use a different monitor with wifi capabilities so I could eventually link all data in real time to a web page.
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Well I have been using the UBNT Mport wifi monitor in the house. I have a current sensor on the Forced Hot Air blower motor so it charts when my blower in the house runs and I put a PT100 sensor in one of the two thermowells in my Primary Loop right after my flat plate heat exchanger so that I can see the boiler temps charted. It has been working great. Now I can monitor the boiler temps while I am at work. I can also tell by the chart when it is running out of wood since it takes longer then usual to do a burn cycle. I have found that my typical burn cycle is 40-50 mins long. I also see how much my boiler temp drops after my forced hot air runs which allowed me to calculate the accurate BTU's that the FHA was giving to the house per min or run time. I am getting about 1010 BTU's per minute of run time on the FHA fan. I was going to put a MPort out on the boiler so that I could see the boiler temps and when the fan ran on the boiler but I am happy with the info I have now. I still would like to just be able to see the reaction chamber temps and the exhaust temps though just read out on the LOGO control.
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That was something that was mentioned at the dealers meeting, Jake would like to see a view port and temperature monitoring included but that just adds cost to the unit.
Might be worth it for them to offer it as an option in the future.
All the monitoring units I’ve looked into so far, none of them have the capability to monitor the high temps that would be found in the secondary burn chamber.
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That was something that was mentioned at the dealers meeting, Jake would like to see a view port and temperature monitoring included but that just adds cost to the unit.
Might be worth it for them to offer it as an option in the future.
All the monitoring units I’ve looked into so far, none of them have the capability to monitor the high temps that would be found in the secondary burn chamber.
I might be able to get thermocouples connected to my systems. I am waiting for parts to try it out. If it works, do you want to try one out?
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A friend of mine has the E-Classic but I am not sure which model other than it is one of the largest ones. He has the option they offer to monitor the unit through his smart phone. They have a lot of info they provide and one item is the secondary burn temps, he shoed this to me on his phone. I don't know where exactly they take the reading at but when he showed it to me it was over 1000 F but not sure at what point in the burn cycle.
Oh how burning wood has evolved and gotten complicated. I still have the forced air wood furnace I built over 30 years ago sitting in my garage, not being used any more. I'd hate to guess how many cords of wood has gone through that baby.
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Hey mlappin, when your unit is off and has been for awhile do you get smoke coming out of your chimney?
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I seem to recall awhile back when I drove over to Topeka Indiana to one of CB’s dealers a E2400 with that option was about $2000 more than the G400’s MSRP, but don’t hold me to that, has been a couple of years ago.
I get some smoke after it shuts down, especially on a fresh load of wood. I would’t think this is abnormal as fresh air can find it’s way down the stack allowing some smoke to escape. Can’t ever have a perfectly tight seal on the primary and secondary burn chamber unless they had a damper in the stack as well.
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Would this work to convert the thermocouple to something that the logo will read?? http://www.omega.com/pptst/TAC80B.html
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Not sure about that adaptor honda.
Hey mlappin one thing I found out regarding the cycling of the unit after it shuts off when reaching 180 degrees. Ryan at the factory told me on the G400 (maybe all G models are the same?) the venter comes on 1 hour after the unit has reached 180 and runs for 5 minutes. Then every 30 minutes after that it comes on and runs for 3 minutes until the temperature falls to 160 to kick back in and start the cycling all over again. I always like to know how things are supposed to work in case there are problems later.
Well the parts that I have been looking for since the first part of December finally shipped on the 16th and evidently it takes 15 days to get from North Dakota to Wisconsin because they aren't scheduled to be delivered until the 31st, very frustrating.
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Hows things going now with the new parts schoppy?
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It's a little long, I'll send you a PM.
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I had an issue with my g200 in warmer weather not relighting after long down times between burns. The factory setting is every 90 min it does a 3 min cycle. We reset mine to every 45 min for 5 min and the problem is gone.
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Looking at my monitoring software it looks like my 2015 model year g200 does a 90 min purge cycle for 3 mins on the initial first purge, if it idles again for another 60 mins after the first purge cycle then it purges again at 60 min intervals for 3 mins there on out until it hits 160 and does a full cycle, starting the the 90/60 cycle again.
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Hey Big Al how did you reset your purge settings? Is it something a home owner can do or is it a dealer only feature?
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Hey Big Al how did you reset your purge settings? Is it something a home owner can do or is it a dealer only feature?
Some settings are locked on the controller, your dealer needs a “chip” to unlock the controller to reset certain parameters.
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I tried to play with th controller a little bit but I couldn't decipher the mumbo jumbo that came up, it was not straight forward. I looked at the logo manual online and that was no help.
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Schoppy , Richard was able to get the information from heatmaster and he passed it on to me. They probably don't want me to share it but I would if someone was to say it was ok
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No problem, just curious as to how it was done.
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Well this is the first real cold weather we have seen. -15 This morning with a sustained 20mph wind and 35 mph gusts. Wind Chills in the -35 range. Loaded the boiler 3/4 full yesterday at 6am. Wife ran the house at 71 while I was at work and the outside temps ran around 10 degrees for a high with 15mph sustained wind. She loaded it at 6pm and wood was still to the bottom of the door frame, she couldn't fit everything I gave her in. I got home this morning to the boiler idling at 178 degrees. Opened it up and had a coal bed all the way up to the bottom of the door frame. Through in 3 splits and I am letting it burn down a little. Ill go check it in a while. It has warmed up to -6 this morning at 11am. COLD! Boiler is taking all of this in stride. Indoor FHA fan is running 8 mins off and 9 mins on when I got home. Started a fire in the Woodstock soapstone stove. Shes cruising at 500 degrees now. FHA hasn't run in probably 45 mins.