Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
Outdoor Furnaces - Manufacturers WITH EPA-Certified Models => HeatMaster => Topic started by: Jared43758 on December 17, 2015, 11:54:53 AM
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When just running one pump, instead on connecting your return line to the return connection straight above your pump, run it over to the other side return connection. I'm wondering cause I just run one pump that the other side gets hotter or doesn't circulate as well, cause hot spots? Cause water to boil some, loose water faster threw steam and etc. anyone ever suggest crossing return line?
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If you only have one circulation loop off your boiler, use a tee or y fitting to split the return water volume into BOTH return ports. ;)
Likewise, draw off both supply ports and tee or y fitting them together to allow for better flow and ease of returning water to and drawing water from the boiler's water jacket.
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Another option is to just install a small pump on the other ports for added circulation.
On the G series this is recommended if your not getting the required GPM to ensure proper circulation in the water jacket.
On my G400 I have a 26-99 running on high to the shop and a Taco Delta T to the house, I tee’d off on those ports that the Taco is hooked to and added a BG-25 running on low to ensure I had proper flow when the delta T was running at minimum speed. The BG simply take water from the supply and pumps it right back into the return.
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Yea I have the one pump only. B&G 1/6 horse three speed and only running on 1. The lowest speed. I'm not big on using electricity. So a extra pump wouldn't be my first choice even though yea I know they don't use much. Scott acted like my set up was fine. SLIMJIM, is running just one pump fine on a C250?
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Got mine same side, works great. Have seen some people cross and that works too. I think the larger units like a MF10000 with one system hookup might be better if crossed. Smaller units like the C125 have only one set of ports and they are on one side , so I take it that the manufacture doesn't see a big advantage in crossover.
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I think either way is fine on the conventional units as they are simply a tank in a tank, crossing the lines in my opinion does help with flow but in most cases on a conventional should not be necessary. The problem arises on the higher efficiency units like the G series that have an internal manifold built in, it requires lots of flow or the returning cooled water never gets up to the top and front of the boiler and the probe will read higher than the exiting water, this is where I think we need to educate folks on pipe sizing and flow rates, 1 inch nominally sized pipe is next to impossible to get enough flow for the G series units to mix well and a bypass loop needs to be installed.
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I'll try to post a picture of the last one I did, I think this is the one I want!
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The supply side for both circs are 1 1/4 to the bypass tees where they drop to 1 inch, I did later add ball valves to the bypass loop to force more water through the nominal pex lines.
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Slim I like the flexible lines. Prolly be a lot easier to work with in the back. Anything special, just high temp rubber hose? Reliable for long uses or are you just using it for temp show purposes
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Yes just automotive heater hose!
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When you turn the power switch off to your stove while you tighten up the doors, remember when your done, turn the stove back on. 6 hrs later the wife says the water isn't as hot as normal.
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Do you just clamp the hose on to copper pipe or do you use some sort of barb fitting?
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1 inch automotive heater hose with a squirt of lubricant will slide directly over the 1 inch copper. An IDEAL stainless water hose clamp and it will almost always need to be cut in order to get it off after it's been hot!
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No restrictions I'll have to try that in the future