Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
All-Purpose OWF Discussions => General Outdoor Furnace Discussion => Topic started by: hrc200x on January 16, 2016, 11:20:51 AM
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Am in the early planning stages of using a out of service indoor forced air wood stove to heat a detached garage. The furnace is already taken out of the house and in storage in a shed. I was thinking of making a metal pallet for the stove to sit on, making a full enclosure or just a roof over it to keep blowing snow and rain off it and running the air duct through one of the windows in the garage. This whole setup would only be in place for the winter. Come spring, detach the air duct, take down the chimney and disconnect the wires, put the forks on the tractor and wheel the stove away for storage.
It would only be fired up on weekends when working in the garage.
Could possibly be powered with a extension cord which would make shutdown after weekend use and come spring easy.
Would the heat duct need to be insulated, or would the air be moving through there fast enough? If I recall the duct on the top of the stove is probably 20-24" diameter.
Is there going to be condensation issues?
The stove should be way oversized for the area its heating, it went from heating a 1200 sq ft. house with basement to a insulated area 24x28.
Anything else that may be problematic?
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Ive installed some factory built outdoor wood furnaces like you are making. And my cousin has an indoor Clayton 1600 out in a shed with hot air piped to his trailer home about 10 feet from the furnace shed.
Insulation is always a good thing.
Plus, you'll want to pull a cold air return from the garage back to the wood stove to be rewarmed. That way you'll have good circulation, less moisture, and warmer air than trying to bring up outside air temp air and then pumping it in garage.
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Good tip on the cold air return, Will see how it works out on setting it up
Any tips on insulating the pipe?