Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
Outdoor Furnaces - Manufacturers WITH EPA-Certified Models => HeatMaster => Topic started by: Jared43758 on November 05, 2016, 05:16:39 AM
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I'm just curious to the wood saving difference of my c250. So mainly wanting info from people heating similar sq. like g200 users. 1500-2500 sq feet.
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We are in S.E.Mass and our g-200 is heating about 2300+ sq feet of 1890 farm house including the basement. We averaged about a cord a month last year and will be monitoring it more closely this year with the new logstor pipe.
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Thank u
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I am at around the same usage but also have logstor this year. Last year I burned 7.5 which was just over a cord per month heating 2800 sqft of 220 year old farm house. I have found this year that my standby time this time of year with the logstor is unreal. The stove will actually stay a steady temp because it kicks on for 3 mins every 45 mins. That brings the water up a degree which is good enough to hold it at a steady temp almost indeffinetly. This may be causing me an unanticipated problem though! I had bumped my high limit temp to 185 which caused my high limit snap disk to snap off a few times which doesn't allow the boiler to be repowered until 140 causing the coal bed to have died by the time it got bqck to that point. But that wasn't the problem I have run into a few times. I bumped my temp back to 180 so I wouldn't have that issue with the snap disk again. Well I have had te boiler drop down low enough to hit the cold temp shut down twice now. When I have opened the boiler both times this happened and I still had solid wood and coals but the coals were cold. I think this maybe due to the extensive idling but I'm not totally sure. It is still a possibility that the snap disc snapped off at a lower temp than it is suppose to causing the boiler to not run until 140 degrees in turn killing the fire but I'm not sure about that. This is my second season and I never ran into this issue last year. Last year I had homemade foam in trench lines that certainly were not as efficient as this logstor line. Maybe slim can think of something I have missed. I have turned on my BBQ thermometer alarm so that I now as soon as the temp drops below 158 so I can figure out quick if it happens again.
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I ran my c250 last year from October 1 to April 15. I heat a little over 1800sq ft on living level and I have a full basement with the same sqft. But my Basement is half underground and half above ground and I only keep a couple vents open in basement and the radiant heat off my lines and furnace radiator, the basement stays around 60-70 I'm guessing depending on how cold it is outside. My house was built in 1902 and has round trees for floor joists lol. Last year I used 5-5.5 cords of hardwood and 1.5 cord of pine. I guess out of pure laziness I went the entire season only loading my stove once per day. And have continued to do that this year. All I forgot. I have about a half ton of lump bitumnuous coal that I used to burn inside. I used maybe 200 pound of it last year trying to get rid of it but the clinkers it left in my stove are pain. Hve to shovel them out. I have a healthy supply of locus wood I save for the real cold days. I would fill my stove 90 percent full and 24 hrs later still have 25-35percent left. Also I heat my hot water. I am really satisfied with the ease of use and effiecncy of my c250. Don't sound like the gassers are too much more effiecent
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I’m running an experiment right now. Last year before disconnecting my old conventional I measured out 350 lbs of wood and started a fire, got 700 gallons of water up to 146 degrees before I ran out of wood and the temp started to drop, running the same experiment with the G400, only difference is the wood, first test was all seasoned split ash, this test is using all rounds with a mix of soft maple, red elm and ironwood.
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I believe your old conventional stove and my c250 are prolly on completly different levels of efficiency
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I should mention my house is brick but not super tight. It's generally windy at my house 90 percent of time and the walls aren't insulated in the front part of my house. The back half has been added on threw the years and is insulated better
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I'd maybe put a call into the manufacturer to see if they can give you an idea. Or maybe a dealer here has run both stoves and has some insight?
Trying to guess wood savings by comparing a different set up in a different home at a different location isnt going to be very accurate.
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I was looking for dead nuts. Just figured similar sq ft.- add ten examples together- divide by 10= pretty good average
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I believe your old conventional stove and my c250 are prolly on completly different levels of efficiency
I’m absolutely sure of that, the old one was a freaking wood hog.
I know when the G units were tested by an independent lab for EPA compliance they were efficient enough to qualify for a tax rebate as a high efficiency heating appliance, not sure any efficiency numbers can be found for the C series.