Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
All-Purpose OWF Discussions => General Outdoor Furnace Discussion => Topic started by: patvetzal on March 16, 2017, 03:01:13 PM
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I have an old style P&M sitting in our driveway which heats our house and our tenant's. Our tenant is in charge of filling the stove. I have added a string of Christmas lights that come on with the blower fan but I would like to be able to check the water temperature from our kitchen without either going outside or downstairs.
Does anyone know of a wireless thermometer that I could add at a reasonable price? Indoor outdoor weather units only go up to about 150F and any BBQ units I have found only trip an alarm but do not give a reading.
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I used the Thermoworks smoke thermometer. I clamped the grill probe to the copper line where my supply coming in connects to my HX in the basement. Then I set the unit to low 140 and high 190 alarms. I have the remote upstairs so If I get a low alarm I can hear it. Also I can see the temp of the supply any time I want. Reads within 3-4 degrees of my gauges on the supply and return. Says batteries last 1800 hrs , never had it shut down on me. I also bought a spare probe so I can use it for it's intended purpose too.
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I use the "ET-71os Maverick WIRELESS/Remote Smoker/BBQ Dual Readout Probe Thermometer" hooked up the same way as the previous reply. I see it is only $20 on ebay right now. I just leave it on the main floor not too far from the sending unit and it seems to work.
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Thanks! Just ordered one. No more sticking binoculars againsy
T the window and barely reading the temp. Daytime cant see it due to sunlight on the numbers.
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I use the maverick as well. I wrapped the probe in electrical tape then pipe insulation and then electrical tape again. Seems to read about 2 degrees lower than my gauge in the basement. Good enough for me! If it reads 160 I know the fire is out so that's when the alarm goes off. If it reads 190 (never has) then we have a problem.
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Just found the Maverick....$22 American, $83 plus tax, plus shipping Canadian, but exactly what I need.
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That isn't the exchange rate!? Why so much?
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Seems to be the Canadian way with many items. I could buy a hardwired model locally for a lot less with no shipping, less tax. If we want something special we must pay, just don't know where the money goes, except for the taxes.
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I know you ask for a wireless unit. Unfortunately central boiler doesn't have a wireless unit except for the Xp system. We do sell a decent amount of these wired units. They have a 75' wire on them and you just tee the sensor into your supply line. I mounted the readout next to my thermostat in the hallway. It works great. The wireless route you guys have come up with is very nice also. http://www.ohiowoodfurnaces.com/catalog/product.php?productid=1982
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Wandered thru the seasonal BBQ section of Canadian tire yesterday and found that they had a "no name" wireless thermostat at $27. grabbed the only one on the shelf and taped it to my water line in the basement next to my thermometer.
Initially it was reading about 30 degrees cooler than the water but with better location I have it within 10-15 degrees. Going to add some reflective foil tomorrow. If that doesn't bring it within 5 degrees I have some heat conductive silicone from a past life (30 years ago I used to service electric boilers).
My piping is right under the kitchen but sweet wife does't want instruments permanently on her newish countertop.
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Well, the wireless has been installed about a week and I have found that with the wood we are burning (fresh cut maple and beech) it takes about SIX hours for the water to return to the set point. If the boiler temp has dropped to 110-120 when they add wood, it will stay at that temperature until the firewood dries, then will climb from 120 to 170 in an hour or so. That is with an outdoor temp of around zero C...
It will hold at 170 until the wood burns out.
The two houses are warm enough, but we have started to run out of hot water on laundry days.
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That's the interesting thing about watching a unit run. There's almost always a dip in btu's til the wood dries. The drier the wood the less time that is. Just heating the mass of wood takes a few minutes.
Since I saw some charts of some burns I've started to load less wood more often. Seems to be more efficient.
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I would agree when talking about conventional units but totally disagree when using a downdraft gasser and there is a good coal bed, I actually would like to see a REAL test done and I think I would put money on it that if the high moisture content of the wood effects the burn in a good gasser it would be in the other direction. My biggest issue with gassers is wood that is to dry or punky.
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Good point.
I burned some thin slabs the other day. It ran rich and btu's seemed to drop way down. I think the fuel gassed off about as fast as the draft inducer could pull it out. Not much air being pulled in.
Weird.
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That's the interesting thing about watching a unit run. There's almost always a dip in btu's til the wood dries. The drier the wood the less time that is. Just heating the mass of wood takes a few minutes.
Since I saw some charts of some burns I've started to load less wood more often. Seems to be more efficient.
I also do this on weekends and days that I am home enough. I'll fill the stove 4 times a day instead of once or twice. Seems like I use less wood that way as well
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http://www.thermoworks.com/Smoke. These guys rock. I use a lot of there stuff,hell the probes are tested and serial numbered !
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Our tenant quit feeding the boiler about the first of April so I valved off his house and gave him a cord of dry split hardwood for his airtight. Meanwhile I fed the boiler as needed and even let it go out at times. (relit today in fact)
It takes about six hours to bring it up to 170 from a cold start (dry wood) and if I add wood a bit at a time the water stays 150-170. When the tenant was running things the water would drop to 110 then take six hours to come back to temp.
Tenant promises to be gone May 31.....