Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
All-Purpose OWF Discussions => General Outdoor Furnace Discussion => Topic started by: nd guy on August 27, 2017, 11:12:16 AM
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The plan is 75 ft to the house with 1in id pipe then into an 18 x 18 water to air exchanger with two 90 deg fittings. No DHW. The shop is a 50 ft run with 1 in id pipe and two 90 deg into the building then into a 20 plate water to water exchanger for my water floor heat. I believe I will need a mixing valve to get the water down to 120 deg for the floor heat. Is this correct? The pumps I would like to use for both are Armstrong 20 20 CI. I will be running antifreeze because of long days at work sometimes. If I did my math correctly this should work or did I miss something? Additional info the shop is 1200sq ft well insulated and the house is 1550 sq ft and well insulated also. Propane usage is 600 to 700 gals a year and the shop runs close to the same. Any inputs would be great as I want to get this right the fist time. Thanks Ray
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I think I'd go with a little thirty plate in the shop but other than that sounds good. Where will the water to air exchanger located in the house? If after the furnace it will keep your water warm if the fire goes out.
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Thanks Marty, The water to air exchanger is after the furnace and just before the ac coil. It's a down draft style furnace. Will I need the mixing valve in the shop? I'll get a 30 plate. Thanks
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Not trying to butt in on Marty but yes you'll need a mixing valve ( and another pump if you separate the floor loops from the furnace water with the flat plate. )
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Not trying to butt in on Marty but yes you'll need a mixing valve ( and another pump if you separate the floor loops from the furnace water with the flat plate. )
The floor heat in the shop is a propane fired boiler (pressurize system). I want to put a plate exchanger in to keep the pressure side and the open side separate. Will I need more then one pump in the wood boiler side of the shop loop? I'm guessing not but I've been wrong before. LOL
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Do you already have a mixing valve on the in floor propane system? If so, you won't need to add another.
If not, we will need to see how the system is setup to see what you will need.
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I agree with RSI.
I forgot you mentioned propane in the shop... My bad. I would think it would already have a mixing valve? Then you should be able to place a small flat plate on the return side of the propane boiler loop and pump from the outdoor furnace to that.
If you can't place the flat plate in the shop boiler flow then you would need a second pump to pump.out of the propane boiler to the flat plate. As RSI said, more details.
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Here is a few pics of the shop boiler. It has a mixing valve. It looks like the pump is on the return side so would it be better to put the flat plate before or after the pump or does it even matter?
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It looks like you will want to just put the plate in series with the return into the boiler. It needs to be on the boiler side of the tee that is directly below the mixing valve.
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It looks like you will want to just put the plate in series with the return into the boiler. It needs to be on the boiler side of the tee that is directly below the mixing valve.
Yup, that way the flat plate has the coolest water to transfer heat into and the mixing valve can do it's thing as before.
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It looks like you will want to just put the plate in series with the return into the boiler. It needs to be on the boiler side of the tee that is directly below the mixing valve.
Ok. When you say boiler side of the tee you mean where that valve is located right? Do I need that valve or can it go bye bye? Thanks for the help guys.
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Bump.
I'm getting close to fire up and need some clarity, when you guys said after the tee below the mixing vale did you mean where the blue handle valve is? If so would it be better before the valve or after?
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Yes, where the blue handle valve is.
I would keep a valve between the boiler and plate. That way if you ever have to remove the plate for service, it won't require draining the boiler.
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Thanks RSI. One more question does the (what looks to be an air bleeder) on the elbow going down to the boiler still need to be there or can it go?
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The brass air separator on top should have an integrated auto vent. That lower one doesn't appear to serve a purpose in normal operation
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Thanks wreckit87, now to break open the system and get some heat!!