Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
All-Purpose OWF Discussions => Plumbing => Topic started by: tinfoilhat2020 on September 12, 2017, 05:37:41 AM
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Hey guys want some advice.... I'm installing a new g-200 in a house we just moved into this weekend, what are everyone's thoughts on the proper way of Plumbing in a 20 plate exchanger to the domestic hot water tank?
all copper? unions on the dhw side? ball valves on dhw side?
i just wanto do it once and do it right.....
thanks
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I posted pictures on the Facebook thread.
Purge/flushing T’s on both sides of the flat plate, IE. boiler and DHW. dielectric unions, and a bypass valve on the DHW so in the off season your not running all your house water thru the flat plate and possible further gunking it up. Used a mono flo T on mine as per Slim. Did a bit of porting and polishing on mine with a die grinder before sweating it in, insides were kinda ugly.
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I rarely have had issues with gunking up on the stove side, usually on very old cruddy units. Domestic side I had a need to flush on maybe 10% or less but cleanouts aren't a bad idea. I've run 10 years and never flushed on mine. Very much depends on water quality.
I haven't used the monoflo method, just sent it all through, but that depends on the main loop flow rate needed.
Counterflow of course. Mounting vertical is better. I use flat plates with Pex fittings instead of threads. Crimp the Pex directly on, never leaks. Copper is prettier.. .. :)
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I rarely have had issues with gunking up on the stove side, usually on very old cruddy units. Domestic side I had a need to flush on maybe 10% or less but cleanouts aren't a bad idea. I've run 10 years and never flushed on mine. Very much depends on water quality.
I haven't used the monoflo method, just sent it all through, but that depends on the main loop flow rate needed.
Counterflow of course. Mounting vertical is better. I use flat plates with Pex fittings instead of threads. Crimp the Pex directly on, never leaks. Copper is prettier.. .. :)
Like pointed out, depends on your water quality. Even our soft water will leave rust and lime stains. We have a well water tap at the kitchen sink, once in awhile I’ll take a 3/16” drill bit and run it thru the tip or it will clog clear shut with calcium/lime. Purge/flush valves aren’t cheap, but it ain’t cheap to have to redo a flat plate when it clogs shut. I figure if it can happen, it will happen to me, prevents being surprised when something fubars.
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Yes, not disagreeing at all.
It's interesting how some areas have bad lime/clogging issues and some don't. One valley is a lime valley full of caves (and water heaters with blown elements :)), next valley over is shale and no clogs. Once we cross over north into WV coal country out of the Allegeny ridge and valley system the lime stops.
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Yep, we really like our water straight from the well for drinking, is good with no rust (its all dissolved) or sulphur taste. Go a mile behind us and I can’t drink the neighbors water, tastes like match heads. When we used to unload hay there I’d take my own water in a thermos, drink too much of theirs and it’d make me sick. Ours is a hundred and ten feet deep, theirs is a hundred, go figure. A few towns over everybody has shallow wells (or did). Buddy there had a cottage on the lake, his well was actually in a cabinet in the mud room. Pulled the counter top and drove a new one using five foot sections and a electric jack hammer. Got water at 40 foot, his house was on a hill along the lake, told him basically he was drinking lake water.
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Probably was healthier too. ;D
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Is there a facebook group ? and why doesn't outdoorfurnanceinfo show up on Tap a Talk app on android .
Just heads up Tap a talk is so awesome . Talk about knowledge pipe line of friends its crazy . I will always use this one
but I see some expanding potential there . :thumbup:
Heat550
I always wanted to see a general group post titled Tangling with Dragons. :bash: and we need Dragon slayer emoji :thumbup: