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Messages - Ratchet Thunderbolt

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I read this earlier today.  Makes me sick to think all the city folk and suburbanites know what it takes to heat an old farm house.  I did not and do not have the funds to build a new efficient home.  Where I live there is no natural gas line.  If you want to stay warm and alive you choose propane ($5/gal), electric ($0.15/Kwh) or wood ($10/cord).  I cut my own wood on my land so for $100/ year I can heat my home and water.   Even if I buy a new saw each year it is cheaper than the other options.  My rights can easily be squashed by someone 20 miles away that is more "educated" than me.  My pollution is the problem?  Mining for coal, burning coal at the electric co., gas drilling, propane delivery must not add any particulate to the air.  Just my phase II wood burner.  But my neighbor with a fireplace that emits smoke non-stop and draws their warm air up the chimney when not used is efficient and ok. 

Yep, I see that I AM the problem.  What was I thinking?  Clearing dead wood from the forest making room for new trees, recycling God's original renewable fuel, saving money like MSN always suggest I do, getting exercise to try and stay healthy and keep health care costs down.  Shoot me now, I AM Public enemy number one!

 :thumbup:  Well said.

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Plumbing / Wood Stove Instrumentation
« on: February 18, 2014, 04:29:40 PM »
Our house has a GH 2000 Stainless boiler that is 8 years old, I've only been here for the last two years though.  Since then I've installed a flow meter in the system next to the furnace in the house.  This spring  I will be opening up the system to reverse the pump which someone installed backwards, the house is on suction instead of pressure.  When it's open I will install tees on each side of the Hx for temperature gages to monitor temps before and after the Hxer.  Other than flow and temperature is there any other sensors that might be nice to have on the system?  Thanks.

Doug

3
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Gurgling noise?
« on: February 16, 2014, 09:00:35 PM »
mingom
I have a port/main owf, all of the sudden I heard same noise coming in at return line and bubbling up from bottom to the top.
I was able to see return and supply line in the basement and could see air going back on return but not on supply. long story short, I had a drain valve that went bad and was sucking air on return side after exchanger, plumber said it happens occasionally. I caulked up and it went away. will replace in the spring.
Do you have the pump on the return side pulling the water?

What side should the pump be on?  With the house on the pressure or suction side?

4
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: GH Blower replacement.
« on: February 15, 2014, 08:13:44 PM »
I purchased my parts from http://outdoorwoodfurnaceparts.com.  They have replacement parts for the GH boilers.  I finished putting in the blowers yesterday and the boiler is awesome now.  Now all I have to do is reverse the pump someone put in backwards and fix some plumbing this spring and things should be great.  If you need more information let me know.

Doug

5
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / GH Blower replacement.
« on: February 14, 2014, 07:04:45 AM »
FedEx is bringing in two new blowers for me today to replace one that is bound up and one that is ready to fall apart, that's todays job.  The weather is going to be in the 20's so it won't be to bad.  Hopefully the boiler won't coke up like it has been. 

6
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Drilling through Foundation
« on: February 13, 2014, 12:08:01 PM »
I agree.  Looks hideous running thru the sill.  I'm a concrete guy and here's my recommendation...chances are if you rent a 4" or 5" core drill it will be dull and take forever.  If the rental company can't guarantee you a new bit this is what I would do...buy or rent a hammer drill that takes sds bits.  They are common.  Take a 1/2" bit long enough to go thru the wall and drill about 20 in a circular patter big enough to get your lines in.  Keep about 1/2 to 3/4 between holes so you don't fall off into another hole.  Once all your holes are drilled one smack with a maul and your done.  Not as neat as a core drill but much more effective than a dull core bit which I guarantee they will give you.  Be sure to patch back in with anon shrink grout and waterproof with tar or something.  Another trick if it poured wall is to stay away from tie height.  There will be rebar at around 8",20"',50",70",and near the top but you won't be that high I hope.  Depending on type of wall forms used you should be able to see a metal tie sticking out about 2" or at least a small hole where it once was.  This is where your rebar should be!


 :post:

7
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Global Hydronics 2000 Blowers
« on: February 12, 2014, 06:04:05 PM »
One of the two blower motors went bad on my boiler the other day.  Does anyone have a good parts source for parts on this boiler?  Thanks for any information.

8
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Circ pump
« on: February 09, 2014, 04:02:19 PM »
We need to know what the temps are at certain points in the loop to know where the problem lies. You need to measure the water temp when it leaves the boiler, when it enters the home, before it enters the hx, after the hx and when it returns to the boiler. If you have a high heat drop across the exchanger then your pump is pumping to slow.

You mention temps in a lot of various places to determine where things are going right and wrong.  What type of sensors are you using?  Dial thermometers or digital with readouts? 

9
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / New to the forum with a few questions
« on: February 09, 2014, 03:07:35 PM »
Hello everyone,

When I married and moved into my wife's country residence two years ago the GH-2000 owb was already here.  Since that time I've become very familiar with it and I have a few basic but big questions regarding the boiler. 

1.  Should the circulating pump suction side be hooked up to the boiler water jacket reservoirs so the system in the house in pressurized?  It looks like the pump in my unit has been replaced and the suction side is on the house side and pressure side feeds into the main reservoirs of the boiler.   So currently everything in the house is in vacuum or suction. 

2.  Can you clean the heat exchanger in the furnace?  If so how does everyone go about this?  Do you power flush it or take it out and chemically clean it? 

3.  I've had a flow meter installed in the plumbing but what other gages and sensors does everyone usually install?  Temperature, pressure??

4.  After this heating season is over I will be making any plumbing changes and adding anything the system needs.

Thanks for any information and I'm looking forward to reading and contributing to the forum.

Doug

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