Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?
Show Posts
This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
16
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Couple questions for now.....
« on: December 03, 2011, 09:40:15 AM »
Good morning!!! 
So I have a couple questions that I've had bouncing back and forth in my skull over the last couple days.
I read somewhere on this site where someone had mentioned putting a block heater on the furnace somewhere(pex lines?) and using the heat from it to keep everything toasty and warm in case a pump went bad and no one was around to change it out. Would this even work and IF it would, where would one attach it?
I've also seen where someone had discussed wrapping heating strips along the pex...obviously this would have had to be done "prior" to burying the lines?
RSI has given me a price for antifreeze and I'm certain it's in the ball park as far as price goes, but still checking around for other alternatives yet. A whole house generator would seem to be the best, but costly alternative, yet if for some reason I'm away and the power goes out...this too would be most costly than a generator.
Lugnut
So I have a couple questions that I've had bouncing back and forth in my skull over the last couple days.
I read somewhere on this site where someone had mentioned putting a block heater on the furnace somewhere(pex lines?) and using the heat from it to keep everything toasty and warm in case a pump went bad and no one was around to change it out. Would this even work and IF it would, where would one attach it?
I've also seen where someone had discussed wrapping heating strips along the pex...obviously this would have had to be done "prior" to burying the lines?
RSI has given me a price for antifreeze and I'm certain it's in the ball park as far as price goes, but still checking around for other alternatives yet. A whole house generator would seem to be the best, but costly alternative, yet if for some reason I'm away and the power goes out...this too would be most costly than a generator.
Lugnut
17
Shaver Furnace / Water level site glass......
« on: December 03, 2011, 08:45:50 AM »
Another valuable lesson learned this past Wednesday. I went in the morning out to the furnace and checked the fire in the box. Fire was still going, although the wood was pretty much spent, yet the cos were still red and hot. I thought I would check the water level as it had been a few days since. So off I go to the mechanical room in the lower level. turn on the water feed and turn around and go back out side. WHAT THE HELL I hear a gushing of water....and the water is gushing out of the rear of the OWB!!! Well, ya know that water level site glass folks said to put on the Shavers? Seems (now don't tell me you guys haven't had this happen to you...I won't for one minute think that I'm the only one this has happened to) ....seems that one SHOULD remove that when the temps get really cold...as it was that morning down to 25!
That top plate in the rear of the Shaver furnaces where Shaver says you should seal with silicone? Well thank goodness that's where the water came out of....the least resistant area and it WAS sealed.
I immediately grabbed a screw driver and removed the clear tube and elbow and set it aside. Removed the top rear panel of the furnace to gain better access to the top plate and pulled the insulation from the top area. Yes it was a wee bit damp. Placed towels on the top plate to completely dry the area, then I went in with a knife and cut away all the silicone. Had to drain about 12" off water off the top so that the silicone would adhere...long story short...we were back in business again.
So now, I still have to put a bit more water back in the tank, but the site glass( tube) is off. Whew! I almost had a really bad situation on my hands. What do you fellows with the site glass do in the winter? Leave the tube off?
Lugnut....still learning.
That top plate in the rear of the Shaver furnaces where Shaver says you should seal with silicone? Well thank goodness that's where the water came out of....the least resistant area and it WAS sealed.
I immediately grabbed a screw driver and removed the clear tube and elbow and set it aside. Removed the top rear panel of the furnace to gain better access to the top plate and pulled the insulation from the top area. Yes it was a wee bit damp. Placed towels on the top plate to completely dry the area, then I went in with a knife and cut away all the silicone. Had to drain about 12" off water off the top so that the silicone would adhere...long story short...we were back in business again.
So now, I still have to put a bit more water back in the tank, but the site glass( tube) is off. Whew! I almost had a really bad situation on my hands. What do you fellows with the site glass do in the winter? Leave the tube off?
Lugnut....still learning.
18
Shaver Furnace / Finally!!! Got the larger blower motor via UPS yesterday!
« on: December 03, 2011, 08:08:38 AM »
Ruth Ann from Shaver came through...and she is the book keeper! Those other boneheads there should take lessons from her on customer service etc.
So it's a bit wet out today, we dodged the bullet with a nasty snow storm, it's all going north of us. WHEW!
I had to "special order" a five inch brush for the flue from a fire place shop here. It came in yesterday as well, but for the fact that the rain is lightly falling, I will have to save that chore for another day, and it ain't getting no warmer up here. :-(
So sometime today, I will shut the power down on the furnace and pull off the existing motor. Since the brain at Shaver that did the welding on this furnace couldn't weld the flange on straight NOR get the holes for the blower centered, I will have to "slot" the exiting holes in the new blower motor flange to get that motor to sit straight up and down so that when the damper "does" close down, it closes all the way and does not close and leave a 1/4" gap on the bottom. The existing motor in tilted to the left.
I do believe this next Spring, I'll have a friend come over with his welder, and see about lopping that flange off and have him weld a new flange on so that I can mount the blower in a horizontal manner, so that when the damper closes...it closes in a more positive manner.
So, "hopefully" my excessive wood burning will be slowing way down after I get this damper on. Next is to get the Ranco installed and wired.
Lugnut
So it's a bit wet out today, we dodged the bullet with a nasty snow storm, it's all going north of us. WHEW!
I had to "special order" a five inch brush for the flue from a fire place shop here. It came in yesterday as well, but for the fact that the rain is lightly falling, I will have to save that chore for another day, and it ain't getting no warmer up here. :-(
So sometime today, I will shut the power down on the furnace and pull off the existing motor. Since the brain at Shaver that did the welding on this furnace couldn't weld the flange on straight NOR get the holes for the blower centered, I will have to "slot" the exiting holes in the new blower motor flange to get that motor to sit straight up and down so that when the damper "does" close down, it closes all the way and does not close and leave a 1/4" gap on the bottom. The existing motor in tilted to the left.
I do believe this next Spring, I'll have a friend come over with his welder, and see about lopping that flange off and have him weld a new flange on so that I can mount the blower in a horizontal manner, so that when the damper closes...it closes in a more positive manner.
So, "hopefully" my excessive wood burning will be slowing way down after I get this damper on. Next is to get the Ranco installed and wired.
Lugnut
19
Electronics / NOIDS....as in sol-e
« on: November 27, 2011, 06:39:22 PM »
Okay guys...here I am again. I've been thru the archives on this site, well at least on the "electronics" page. Just is case the larger blower motor shows up tomorrow on my front door step( I doubt it) I need to figure out how to wire the solenoid on the auto damper to the blower motor. Oh, in case any one has forgotten, I have the Shaver 250 F.O.R.D.
I'm going to have to take a good close look as to where to mount the solenoid. Right now it's on a piece of junk steel that Shaver sent to me. I asked them via email if they could send me the instructions for connecting the solenoid to the blower motor and their reply was, "sorry we do not send any instructions out with the solenoids." EXCUSE ME?
So I'm thinking that I'm going to have to mount the solenoid directly on to the rear inside panel of the OWB. But I still need to know and understand what wire goes to what/where? I re-wired my t-bucket a few months ago and that was much easier because ALL the wires were marked every four inches and I had specific instructions on how to wire the car.
Anyway, just as before I thank whomever in advance for their assistance. I'll concern myself with wiring the Ranco at a later time...actually "I might be able to figure that one out myself."
Lugnut
I'm going to have to take a good close look as to where to mount the solenoid. Right now it's on a piece of junk steel that Shaver sent to me. I asked them via email if they could send me the instructions for connecting the solenoid to the blower motor and their reply was, "sorry we do not send any instructions out with the solenoids." EXCUSE ME?
So I'm thinking that I'm going to have to mount the solenoid directly on to the rear inside panel of the OWB. But I still need to know and understand what wire goes to what/where? I re-wired my t-bucket a few months ago and that was much easier because ALL the wires were marked every four inches and I had specific instructions on how to wire the car.
Anyway, just as before I thank whomever in advance for their assistance. I'll concern myself with wiring the Ranco at a later time...actually "I might be able to figure that one out myself."
Lugnut
20
Shaver Furnace / Thoughts on thinking "outside" the box..so as not to get burned.
« on: November 25, 2011, 10:08:55 PM »
Okay guys here we go.....just some thoughts/ideas I had regarding the Shaver units while I was perusing other furnace manufacture's websites.
1) Anyone ever thought about making a "removable" ash pan for these pigs? I think this would be beneficial in emptying the ash pan as opposed to shoveling it out...first having to locate a flat enough shovel the correct size to be able to pull the ash from the box.
2) Does anyone have a "surge protector" on their digital t-stats in the rear of the furnace?
3) Regarding the rear door...which is NOT insulated...what kind of insulation should I place in there? R-value and how deep/thick/type? guess I should have done this before, but it's never too late...at least not yet. I placed insulation in the firebox door, but it has already turned crusty and black. I also plan this next spring to disassemble the furnace and re-do the insulation on the entire unit.
4) Has anyone changed out the roof on their Shaver from the corrugated tin to solid steel? I've been thinking about doing that this Spring...provided I haven't run the thing over by then with my truck.
5) Has anyone modified the firebox door from what it is to maybe something similar to the portage and main boiler style "pyramid" door? I think this is the company that has that style door. There's no chance of warping as with these Shaver doors.
6) Any thoughts on tossing out the silicone for sealing the door and using "fire rope" instead? I'd like to re-seal my door gasket, but now is NOT the time to do so using silicone.
7) How does one go about removing creosote stains from the panels of this furnace? My tan is slowly but quickly turning black.
Okay, I think this is about all that I have come up with. All you Shaver folks...you should go on the naturescomfort website and just read the owner's manual....wow, Shaver could LEARN a thing or two from these folks.
Lugnut
1) Anyone ever thought about making a "removable" ash pan for these pigs? I think this would be beneficial in emptying the ash pan as opposed to shoveling it out...first having to locate a flat enough shovel the correct size to be able to pull the ash from the box.
2) Does anyone have a "surge protector" on their digital t-stats in the rear of the furnace?
3) Regarding the rear door...which is NOT insulated...what kind of insulation should I place in there? R-value and how deep/thick/type? guess I should have done this before, but it's never too late...at least not yet. I placed insulation in the firebox door, but it has already turned crusty and black. I also plan this next spring to disassemble the furnace and re-do the insulation on the entire unit.
4) Has anyone changed out the roof on their Shaver from the corrugated tin to solid steel? I've been thinking about doing that this Spring...provided I haven't run the thing over by then with my truck.
5) Has anyone modified the firebox door from what it is to maybe something similar to the portage and main boiler style "pyramid" door? I think this is the company that has that style door. There's no chance of warping as with these Shaver doors.
6) Any thoughts on tossing out the silicone for sealing the door and using "fire rope" instead? I'd like to re-seal my door gasket, but now is NOT the time to do so using silicone.
7) How does one go about removing creosote stains from the panels of this furnace? My tan is slowly but quickly turning black.
Okay, I think this is about all that I have come up with. All you Shaver folks...you should go on the naturescomfort website and just read the owner's manual....wow, Shaver could LEARN a thing or two from these folks.
Lugnut
21
Shaver Furnace / Wondering how much I can get for my Shaver 250? Maybe Shaver will take it back.
« on: November 25, 2011, 05:58:34 PM »
Getting frustrated now. Last night I loaded up the firebox, opened the ash door just a wee bit for air flow. Turned off the blower motor. Went outside this morning and opened the wood box door and there was wood yet left opver, not all but enough. And yes there was smoke coming out of the flue, but also when I opened the door, I was greeted with water lying on the door ledge and then I made its way out onto the concrete pad.
Now it was warm last night as it was too today...I filled the box and turned on the blower motor switch, opened the slide on the blower to about 1/4". closed both the ash and firebox door all the way and now I'm getting smoke out of the door and chimney. I ran a rod down the chimney and didn't feel any obstructions...so I can tell you, IF I were my neighbors I'd be pretty pissed.
This thing has been doing nothing but smoking since I've hooked it up and began burning.
Yeah and that 75 cfm blower motor that Shaver "said" they would overnight on Wednesday...it's not here yet either. Sure wish I knew someone up here that had a Shaver and could save my sanity. "Tempted" to shut the damn furnace down and completely drain the system.....yes I know...I'm just going through a phase right now......
Okay, I suppose I'm done venting a bit. Sorry to ruin anyone's evening.
Lugnut
Now it was warm last night as it was too today...I filled the box and turned on the blower motor switch, opened the slide on the blower to about 1/4". closed both the ash and firebox door all the way and now I'm getting smoke out of the door and chimney. I ran a rod down the chimney and didn't feel any obstructions...so I can tell you, IF I were my neighbors I'd be pretty pissed.
This thing has been doing nothing but smoking since I've hooked it up and began burning.
Yeah and that 75 cfm blower motor that Shaver "said" they would overnight on Wednesday...it's not here yet either. Sure wish I knew someone up here that had a Shaver and could save my sanity. "Tempted" to shut the damn furnace down and completely drain the system.....yes I know...I'm just going through a phase right now......
Okay, I suppose I'm done venting a bit. Sorry to ruin anyone's evening.
Lugnut
22
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / To all my new found OWB friends.....
« on: November 23, 2011, 09:40:39 PM »
I want to wish each of you and your families a very nice Thanksgiving Day.
Lugnut
Lugnut
23
Shaver Furnace / Ash not what your furnace can do for you......
« on: November 23, 2011, 08:02:59 PM »
Yeah, its me again. So I was talking with my Orkin guy. He has an Empire OWB and I was inquiring about the ashes. He told me to let them go and get a good amount in the ash drawer, of course I don't have an ash drawer, but I knew what he meant.
Any one out here let their ashes go for longer than a week? Another question...I place my spent ashes in a galvanized trash can and let them set for a couple days before I dump them out onto the gravel driveway. What do you fellas do with yours?
Okay, I'll sit back for a while and see what kind of replies I receive. Again, thanks in advance.
Lugnut
Any one out here let their ashes go for longer than a week? Another question...I place my spent ashes in a galvanized trash can and let them set for a couple days before I dump them out onto the gravel driveway. What do you fellas do with yours?
Okay, I'll sit back for a while and see what kind of replies I receive. Again, thanks in advance.
Lugnut
24
Site Suggestions / Trivial question to the Mr. Phin Phan....
« on: November 23, 2011, 07:18:39 PM »
Any chance you can maybe put the names of the furnace manufacturers in alphabetical order? Just thinking out loud.
Lugnut
Lugnut
25
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Auto damper solenoids.....
« on: November 21, 2011, 09:42:59 AM »
While reading Pintopaul's posts, I got to wonder. In one posting on here somewhere, I saw where a member had taken the blower motor and turned it so that the flapper is on the "top" of the blower motor...just above the squirrel cage, as opposed to perpendicular to the right of the blower. Now does blower motor have enough "oomph" to push that flapper up and open? Or is mounting the flap "along side" the blower the better option?
Asking this now because sometime this week, I will (read:should) be receiving my new blower motor/auto damper.
Lugnut
Asking this now because sometime this week, I will (read:should) be receiving my new blower motor/auto damper.
Lugnut
26
Shaver Furnace / Best thermostat to get....re-hashing an old thread....
« on: November 17, 2011, 10:38:06 AM »
View Profile
Email
This posting was in response to a query regarding installing another thermostat instead of using the one on the rear of the Shavers. Response was from Russ, the Shaver salesman out of Maryland.
I do have a Ranco 111000 on its way to my humble abode and so here are my questions:
1) The well that goes in to the rear of the furnace or water jacket if you will..... how far down into the tank should this well go?
2) Do I want the well IN the water or just IN the air space of the water jacket?
3) Will I have issues down the road with the metal shavings from the drill bit getting into the water?
4) I don't have a snake, but I do have a Shaver 250 OWB how do I wire this bad boy?
5) Putting the cart before the horse...at what temperature should I set the thermostat?
Re: Whats the best thermostat to get.
« Reply #3 on: October 31, 2010, 08:53:40 AM »
Reply with quoteQuote
As for the well . drill a hole about 14" back on the top of the furnace. One guy just used a 12" piece of copper tube with a cap soldered on the end . At the top you can use a reducer or just flare the end so when you drop it in the hole the reducer will catch it.then drop in the probe from the Ranco and put a little silicone around the hole to seal it up and your done.
This posting was in response to a query regarding installing another thermostat instead of using the one on the rear of the Shavers. Response was from Russ, the Shaver salesman out of Maryland.
I do have a Ranco 111000 on its way to my humble abode and so here are my questions:
1) The well that goes in to the rear of the furnace or water jacket if you will..... how far down into the tank should this well go?
2) Do I want the well IN the water or just IN the air space of the water jacket?
3) Will I have issues down the road with the metal shavings from the drill bit getting into the water?
4) I don't have a snake, but I do have a Shaver 250 OWB how do I wire this bad boy?
5) Putting the cart before the horse...at what temperature should I set the thermostat?
Re: Whats the best thermostat to get.
« Reply #3 on: October 31, 2010, 08:53:40 AM »
Reply with quoteQuote
As for the well . drill a hole about 14" back on the top of the furnace. One guy just used a 12" piece of copper tube with a cap soldered on the end . At the top you can use a reducer or just flare the end so when you drop it in the hole the reducer will catch it.then drop in the probe from the Ranco and put a little silicone around the hole to seal it up and your done.
27
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Short burn cycle???
« on: November 17, 2011, 09:20:45 AM »
Will someone please explain this to me? Of the many assorted replies to my posts on here, I've seen this often and did not respond with a question as to what the term: short burn cycle " meant.
Thank you.
Lugnut
Thank you.
Lugnut
28
Shaver Furnace / Turn on...turn off....turn on ....turn off.....
« on: November 15, 2011, 04:18:18 PM »Okay Shaver fans, here's a few questions for you. You know that valve on the front of the furnace that reads: OFF ---> ON <----- so when I turn the valve on, I "should" get water coming out of the short pipe on the side? and when I turn it off it "should" stop?
So I turn the valve to "ON" and I leave it there while I'm working on the furnace...and nothjng has come out even after 30 minutes. WTH? So I go down stairs and turn the feed water on...come out side and the valve is in the "OFF" position, but what the hey....there's water coming out??? I know what it means when the valve is in the "OFF" position, well okay I "used to know" it meant no fluid would be escaping from within...so WHY is my valve "ON" when it is "OFF?"
What have I missed here???
One additional question...the stacks on these things are 5" ID...is there such a beast size for a chimney brush?
Jerry
29
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Creosote build-up questions again from a "still" newbie
« on: November 15, 2011, 03:37:41 PM »I suppose I should just go to the archives to look this info up, but I might want a "fresh" prospective on this. Okay, so the temps were a bit balmy today..I suppose in the upper 50s. I let the fire die out and decided that although the furnace has only been running since October 28th, it was time to do some TLC to it.
I cleaned out the ash box thoroughly, I scrapped away as much built up creosote that I could "without" crawling into the darn firebox (anyone have any thoughts on how to clean the creosote out that's way in the rear of the firebox?), then I went up to the chimney...had to "knock" the spark arrester off and have decided that it WILL be remaining off. Then I looked down inside the stack..holy creosote bat man! come on ...this has only been burning now for going on three weeks as of this Friday.
Off I go to Menard's to get a brush. I asked the sales guy there, " my stack is 5" in diameter and I don't see any on the shelf for that size, so do you recommend I buy the 6"? He says yes because that way I can get the stack cleaner. Pardon the pun, but the 6" brush don't cut it.
I didn't even try to force it in as I knew just what would happen.So is there such a beast as a 5" brush? Guess I could try Fleet Farm. Anyway, long story short, I did get it cleaned out but not with a brush. A long stiff fiberglass pole (4') does wonders.
So now I'm needing to know how I got the creosote build up in only three shorts weeks. The red oak I'm burning is from 7 trees that were cut down six years ago. In the summer the wood is exposed to the sun/wind; in the winter I leave it covered by a tarp. I would have thought that by now this wood would have been dried? Yeah I remember a fellow from WV saying something to the effect that even if it is six years old, unless it is covered by a building yet still allowing the air to go between the stacks...then it isn't dry. WTH?
As always I thank you in advance for your responses/suggestions/ideas. but please be gentle, we all had to start somewhere regarding the OWBs.
Lugnut
30
Shaver Furnace / Shaver auto dampers
« on: November 11, 2011, 10:29:01 PM »
Trying to figure out how Shaver can charge $125.00 for their auto damper? I received one that I "supposedly" ordered when I upgraded to a Shaver 250 from a 165. This thing is a piece of garbage. I swear they have NO quality control there at all. Just grab up some flat plate, cut out a circle or something that resembles a circle and then take the disc that is the cut out and weld a hinge onto it, but let's make sure that the hinge is not flat...so I have this auto damper that when the temperature is met, the flap is "supposed" to close and cut off ALL air to the furnace right? Welp, not with this piece of crap. There is at least a 1/16" gap around the entire hole in the plate...and it has little welding gobs on it. the flap does NOT close down tight.
So like I asked, where do they get off charging $125.00 for junk? When I can go on the Alternative heating website and bought the solenoid and flapper for under $50.00!!!
Lugnut
So like I asked, where do they get off charging $125.00 for junk? When I can go on the Alternative heating website and bought the solenoid and flapper for under $50.00!!!
Lugnut