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121
Central Boiler / Re: "Sometimes" disease.
« on: December 13, 2016, 06:37:40 PM »
Check and see if you can get the WiFi enabled firestar controler for your 1400. I have one for my Edge and its amazing. You can monitor your furnace from anywhere via your smartphone. You get your water temp and reaction chamber temp in real time. You can set it up to send you a text or email if you forget to shut the bypass. You can also have it notify you when you need to add wood, low water level, if you leave the firebox door open, high and low water temp alert, if the fire goes out.... I believe there's even more but can't remember them all.
Its a really cool option if you can retrofit your 1400 for one.

122
Central Boiler / Re: Hung solenoid
« on: December 11, 2016, 07:10:31 AM »
I had something similar happen 7-8 years ago on my old classic. Dealer said to give it a good shot of wd40 and work it in. Never had another problem. I now do it every year at start up.

123
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Actual btus per hour used
« on: December 10, 2016, 09:03:43 PM »
Ya, i think some heat gets radiated from the boiler between cycles. My Central Boiler has a thermocouple in the secondary burn chamber. If you have a good coal bed it can still be 400-500 degrees in there 1\2 hour after it reached its set point and shut off.
Plus, if your pump runs continuous, then the heat exchanger and pex lines in the home are still radiating heat into the home between furnace cycles. I know in my house, if its above 40 degrees, the furnace rarely comes on. Just having the hot water circulating through the lines and heat exchanger dumps enough heat into the home to keep it warm.

124
Fire Wood / Re: Anyone become a "wood slave"?
« on: December 03, 2016, 06:31:54 AM »
No doubt, its a labor intensive way to heat your home. I've gotten that "your crazy" look more then once over the years. I guess I just enjoy cutting, splitting and stacking wood. Like they say, if its something you like to do, then its not going to feel like work.

Spending a December afternoon cutting wood is something i actually look forward to.

125
Plumbing / Re: Desperate for troubleshooting advice. Please help.
« on: November 12, 2016, 09:54:22 AM »
OK, just went out and looked at the one in my garage. It does in fact split in two, and the thermostat is right there. When its closed, the water gets redirected to the stove, when open, it flows out toward the heat ex. Only problem is there's an o ring on the thermostat that seals the 2 halves together, similar to what seals your pump to the pump flange out on the stove.  Remove the tstat, and there's nothing to seal the 2 halves together.

You could maybe pull the oring off the tstat and reuse it to make the seal. Or you might get lucky and there's something obstructing it and can just clean and reassemble.

126
Plumbing / Re: Desperate for troubleshooting advice. Please help.
« on: November 12, 2016, 09:24:08 AM »
IIRC, there's a thermostat in there similar to the one in your car. The valve splits in half by removing the 4 bolts. Im thinking you can pull the thermostat out, bolt it back together, and run without it. Remember which way it sits in there so when you get a new one you won't put it in backwards.

127
Plumbing / Re: Desperate for troubleshooting advice. Please help.
« on: November 12, 2016, 05:44:19 AM »
What temp do you have your stove set to? The bypass valve needs 170 degree water to be fully open. At 150-170 its only partially open and anything under 150 its closed. If your water is up to temp, maybe the valve is stuck in bypass?

128
IIRC,  you can still sell conventional boilers, but only for commercial applications.  Any fine print in the ad with that disclaimer?

129
HeatMaster / Re: How much wood are these G series units using
« on: November 06, 2016, 10:42:08 AM »
I'd maybe put a call into the manufacturer to see if they can give you an idea. Or maybe a dealer here has run both stoves and has some insight?
Trying to guess wood savings by comparing a different set up in a different home at a different location isnt going to be very accurate.

130
Central Boiler / Re: Water Test kit
« on: November 01, 2016, 06:32:52 PM »
Ya, the purple stuff goes bad after a while.  I had a 5648 I ran for 13 years. Every 2-3 years I'd have to get some new stuff.

131
WoodMaster / Re: Woodmasters clean fire
« on: October 27, 2016, 06:57:44 PM »
Looks like they've taken the owb design to a whole new level. Innovative for sure.  I like the dry firebox and a 30 year lifespan would be awesome.
Im curious how the modulating fire works on warmer days. Would prolonged idling adversely effect the catalyst?

132
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: First year burning seasoned wood
« on: October 12, 2016, 06:16:36 PM »
If it was stacked so it could dry, you should see a big improvement across the board. You'll use less wood, it should smoke a lot  less, and the stove will perform much better for you.

And ya, oak takes forever to dry. Got a pile split and stacked in full sun for 18 months now and many pieces are still over 25% mc.

133
Central Boiler / Re: Overheating problem
« on: October 09, 2016, 06:42:52 AM »
If youve checked over the door seal and damper, Id look at the solenoid. Spray it down good with some wd40 and work it back and forth by hand. Sometimes they get a little sticky. Otherwise, Id look back over the door and damper. If your door gasket is more than a few years old, it might need a new one, they get hard and brittle over time. You also could try adjusting the cam lock on the door so it shuts tighter.  Clean and scrape any creosote from where the damper shuts against the door, also check the damper for pitting or deterioration.

134
Fire Wood / Re: Silver Maple
« on: October 08, 2016, 05:38:06 AM »
Its decent wood, not as good as oak or hard maple, but better then aspen or most of your pine/spruce.

135
General Discussion / Re: Framing new garage
« on: June 20, 2016, 06:21:42 PM »
Is the variation in height coming from the concrete or is it your sill plate just bowing up?  If the concrete is straight, I'd be hesitant to shim at this point. Once you get the weight of the walls and roof on it it should flatten out and conform to the concrete. If the variation is in the concrete, then ya,  you'll need to shim.

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