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136
General Discussion / Re: Framing new garage
« on: June 18, 2016, 08:45:59 AM »
You can always use construction adhesive between the plates if your worried about seperation. Once that sets up you usually tear wood apart trying to get it apart. But I guess your still gonna be buying some galvanized nails/screws to hold them together. Either way, If wind damage is a concern, you can use hurricane ties. These are metal straps you nail along the stud that physically tie the stud down to the sill plate. Been to a number of storm damaged homes and if the anchor bolts held, the wall often fails where the stud is nailed to the bottom plate.
137
General Discussion / Re: Framing new garage
« on: June 17, 2016, 09:49:08 PM »
Maybe check with your local building official, as codes can vary wildly from state to state, but we've always singled plated the bottom of our walls. Once you square the building in and snap chalk lines its fairly easy to measure out and accurately drill the holes. If its a 1\2" anchor bolt, we drill a 3/4" hole. That usually gives you enough room to tap the wall in or out a bit to flush it up with the chalk line so your wall stays straight
As far as double plating, if you go that route, Id first lay down the PT sill plate and bolt it down into place. Then build the wall like normal and simply nail it down to the PT sill when you stand it. Remember to drill the holes larger then you did for the sill as you now have nuts on the anchor bolts to go over.
As far as double plating, if you go that route, Id first lay down the PT sill plate and bolt it down into place. Then build the wall like normal and simply nail it down to the PT sill when you stand it. Remember to drill the holes larger then you did for the sill as you now have nuts on the anchor bolts to go over.
138
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Well its all over
« on: March 06, 2016, 06:19:16 AM »
Man, thats too bad. Is there a spot on the property that would meet the 100' setback?
Maybe you could try getting a variance approved if you offered to switch to a new gasifier. Their very clean burning with little to no smoke.
Maybe you could try getting a variance approved if you offered to switch to a new gasifier. Their very clean burning with little to no smoke.
139
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Another OWB water temp question
« on: February 22, 2016, 06:04:45 PM »
Just a guess here, but with a 5 degree window, I'll bet your stove would just barely get into a good high burn cycle before the stove reaches its set point and shuts it down. A 10 degree window gives it more time running when its burning its hottest and most efficient.
140
Equipment / Re: Important lesson
« on: February 19, 2016, 06:58:49 PM »
Ya, forks work pretty good. Definitely a back saver. Just be careful you dont hit the forks with the saw. I've managed to hit mine a time or two over the years and their every bit as unforgiving as them damn rocks. 
141
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: what could have been done?
« on: February 12, 2016, 07:59:46 PM »You can't teach an old dog new tricks, manufacturers can show you, tell you, prove to you that most of theses conventionals CAN burn clean. Have seen it first hand. Build em big so you can fill emup for a two day burn, you get smoke. Two neighbors down the road from me have conventional, both burn off the stump wood, both burn 2 times more than me(14 to 20) full cord a year, both fill the neighborhood with smoke. Can't teach an old dog new tricks!
This is how I see it also.
Most of these conventionals can burn clean if you take the initiative to do it. Unfortunately, many never do
142
Fire Wood / Re: Whats properly seasoned wood?
« on: February 09, 2016, 06:34:26 PM »
If your looking for something to burn in a conventional owb, it might work, but if your looking for well seasoned wood, (20-25% MC), your more than likely looking at next year before its ready to burn unless it was standing dead when it was logged. Logs piled up on the ground dont dry very well. In my experience, it takes cutting and splitting to get it dried down.
143
Central Boiler / Re: 5648
« on: February 07, 2016, 07:05:31 AM »
Unless its in excellent condition, $5000 seems high for a stove that old. Take a good look at the stove, if it checks out you can always offer him less.
144
Portage & Main / Re: Should I upgrade from a cb 6048. To a 3444
« on: February 05, 2016, 06:04:35 PM »
Ya, that's a mountain of wood for the square footage your heating. Im in Minnesota and heated a 2000 SF home and kept a 30x48 garage at 45-50 degrees on 8 to10 cord with a central boiler 5648, which is basicly the same stove.
The added insulation will definitely help, but I'd also check the temps on your underground lines to make sure your not loosing heat to the ground. 25 cord of oak is a lot of BTU's
The added insulation will definitely help, but I'd also check the temps on your underground lines to make sure your not loosing heat to the ground. 25 cord of oak is a lot of BTU's
145
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Removing Ash from Conventional Boiler
« on: February 02, 2016, 06:24:00 PM »
With my old central, I'd push all the hot coals over to one side and then shovel out some ash. Then slide the hot coals back over to the clean side and then shovel out the rest of the ash. Was always able to save most of the coals and relight the stove.
147
Central Boiler / Re: Edge
« on: January 15, 2016, 07:27:39 PM »
1500's hotter then I've been able to get mine. Best I've seen is around 1400, but I've been mixing in some semi-seasoned popple along with my dry oak and ash. Started mine up back in november and ya, my temps climbed as I learned the stove, the coal bed improved, and temperatures dropped enough to put a decent load on it. Started out im guessing around 900-1000 degrees and climbed to1200+ once a good coal bed was established.
148
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Jan 10
« on: January 10, 2016, 06:41:02 PM »
Winter finally arrived here. -18 last night, -18 forcasted for tonight. Never got above zero today. Looks like subzero lows til the end of the week. Should finally be getting some good ice on the lakes
149
Central Boiler / Re: New E1450 with WIFI module
« on: January 02, 2016, 10:30:48 PM »
I have the Firestar wi fi option on my Edge and love it. Having real time information anywhere, anytime, on your phone is pretty cool. Water temp, reaction chamber temp, burn time... It even texts or emails you if you run out of wood, water temp is high or low, left the firebox door open etc... I really like it.
It helps a lot in learning these stoves too. You can see what moisture content does and what effect the size of logs/splits do, by watching the reaction chamber temps.
It helps a lot in learning these stoves too. You can see what moisture content does and what effect the size of logs/splits do, by watching the reaction chamber temps.
150
Central Boiler / Re: Edge
« on: December 30, 2015, 06:51:25 PM »
I should have taken some photos of the inside of the stove before I started it up but never did. However, If you go to Centrals website there's a brochure on the Edges that you can download. In there is a fairly decent cutaway picture that shows the workings of the stove.
And ya mlappin, the eclassics have some kind of scraper or cleaning tool hooked onto a chain that you pull through the exchanger to clean it.
And ya mlappin, the eclassics have some kind of scraper or cleaning tool hooked onto a chain that you pull through the exchanger to clean it.