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16
HeatMaster / Re: 10000e question
« on: February 08, 2013, 08:59:20 AM »
Just to update ya all, I had my stove still go out in between heat cycles with the diff set at 175 - 180, 170 - 180 and 168 -180. I was sure it wasn't getting enough air, or any at all in between cycles. So I pulled off the fan and installed a small spacer between the flapper that is opened by the solnoid. Now in between cycles the flapper sits open about 1/16 of an inch, and what a difference. I am getting a nice bed of coals, when water temp drops and calls for heat, it fires up right away, and it will shut off at 180, but with the outside temp sitting around 0 degrees (32f), the water temp will rise a bit, up to around 183. Its been running like that for a week now, and like I said, it is running great.
17
HeatMaster / Re: Help Ranco temp reading E2 (Wont stay running)
« on: January 30, 2013, 05:39:46 PM »
This is what is says in my manual
E2 - Appears if the control settings are not properly stored
in memory.
To correct: Re-set all settings. If the display continues
to show E2, replace the control.
E2 - Appears if the control settings are not properly stored
in memory.
To correct: Re-set all settings. If the display continues
to show E2, replace the control.
18
HeatMaster / Re: 10000e question
« on: January 27, 2013, 10:19:49 AM »
Seems to be working, but the water temp will drop down as low as 160 before it starts climbing again.
19
HeatMaster / Re: 10000e question
« on: January 22, 2013, 07:30:18 PM »
Hey Scott, I just got off the phone with Micheal, he said the same thing so I went out and changed the differential, I now have it set to 170. Hopefully that takes care of it, cause like I said, everything else seems to be working the way it should.
thanks guys
thanks guys
20
HeatMaster / Re: 10000e question
« on: January 22, 2013, 06:46:25 PM »
I have it set at 175 to 180, but there has been a few times that I have gone out and had a look and seen it as high as 184, but of course the fan has shut off
21
HeatMaster / 10000e question
« on: January 22, 2013, 06:23:11 PM »
I just installed a new 10000e on thursday last week and since I've installed it, it has gone out on me a few times. The fan is working fine and so is the solnoid. When its gone out, there was still lots of wood in there and I am using very well seasoned dry larch. So I am wondering if it could be getting choked out by the smoke during the idle time. If so could it be from the length of chimney, would I need more of less. All I put on it was a 3 foot extension piece. Any idea's would be appreciated.
22
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: welding leak in firebox water jacket
« on: January 20, 2013, 10:26:11 AM »
With my home made boiler that I had, it started to leak the last couple of years that I owned it, and all I did was drain the water down below the leak, weld it up and fill her back up. I never had any issues with welding it, I did do a good job of cleaning around the cracked area. Also I had the door and chimney damper wide open to create a bit of air flow. Just be careful you don't burn a bigger hole in it that what can be filled in.
23
HeatMaster / Re: Too Much Boiler?
« on: January 16, 2013, 06:38:03 PM »
Well I'm not sure what the inside of the g200 looks like, but right now I have the g400 and it has air injection tubes that are on both sides of the door just inside and I have had them plug up many times so far this year, especially when we have warmer days. It has plugged off right to the point that no air gets through and the water temp just drops. I had a heck of a time finding something that I could get down the air tubes to clean them out, turned out a urinal power snake finally made its way to break through the cresote to get the air flowing again. But again the problem is everytime it gets warmer again, the boiler is so efficient that it smolders when not calling for heat to raise the water temp, that the tubes plug again. I got so tired of it that I made a deal with my dealer on trading it in for a 10000e. I will be actually changing it out tomorrow.
24
For Sale / Re: 80' and 175' of 1-1/4" 5 wrap insulated pex in Montana
« on: December 04, 2012, 10:31:49 AM »
How much do you want for the 175 foot roll, and where in Montana do you live?
25
Electronics / lookin for a t-stat
« on: October 04, 2012, 07:08:52 PM »
Anyone know of a t-stat that can be set at say 72 to turn my furnace blower on and also be able to set it at 70 for the gas to kick in. I know i can use 2 t-stats to do this, but I really would like to only use 1. Right now I have a 2 stage stat that will turn the fan on at the set temp and if the inside temp doesn't get to what it is set at in a certain amount of time, the gas kicks in. But the time frame is not programmable. I would really like to be able to set it at 2 different temps, one for the fan and the second for the gas to kick in if the inside temp continues to fall.
26
HeatMaster / Re: Chimney compatibility
« on: September 25, 2012, 06:55:13 PM »
lasor,
did you ever find out what type of pipe you need? I have a G400 with 8" insulated pipe and can't seem to find any around, ordering from the dealer is not an option
birchbark
did you ever find out what type of pipe you need? I have a G400 with 8" insulated pipe and can't seem to find any around, ordering from the dealer is not an option
birchbark
27
HeatMaster / Re: Heatmasters website
« on: August 30, 2012, 09:00:37 PM »
Scott, everything I read about the g400 and looking at the brochure, it states that it is epa phase 2 certified. Why do you say that it's not, am I missing something.
28
HeatMaster / Re: Heatmasters website
« on: August 30, 2012, 04:29:15 PM »
but i do notice that they don't advertise the G400 model anymore. I hope that doesn't mean that this model is discontinued, I just bought one in the spring and will be installing it this weekend.
30
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: heating an outdoor water trough
« on: August 28, 2012, 10:35:28 PM »
The water trough is only about 8 feet from the boiler. I am more worried that turning water on and off, I will end up having the line freeze. I kind of thinking of running a line out to the trough and have some kind of valve that will bypass the trough and send it right back to the boiler when the temp of the trough is good. Do you think that would work, and if so do you know of any kind of valve like that.