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211
Plumbing / Re: boiler not coming up to temp hellllppppppp
« on: December 08, 2013, 07:34:12 AM »
I pulled 2 pex al pex 1" lines through my Insul seal 90 feet, flattened the front of the pipes and drilled a hole and wired a rope to that, pulled it in with a little dawn dish soap on the beginning of it, I can remember being surprised how easily it went through even with 2 90 degree bends and a 45. I can imagine that corrugated pipe would be totally different tho Wood Nutt.
Heat you are having a Xmas delivery of a load of split 30" pieces of dry oak? Santa is being very nice to you!
Heat you are having a Xmas delivery of a load of split 30" pieces of dry oak? Santa is being very nice to you!
212
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: fire brick
« on: December 07, 2013, 05:21:47 PM »
Making me think Idaho? I guess I have forgotten since 05 but it's grates on the bottom above the blower and cleaning cavity with sand around it, the sides and top are all water jacket, if there are bricks they must be in the bottom? I remember filling it with sand but ours is not actually a Heatmor, it's a HeatSource1 and although they are very similar maybe they differ in this way, not sure.
213
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: fire brick
« on: December 07, 2013, 01:58:38 PM »
Yeah, I did read it but the stove shown is sort of a primitive gasifier and in most modern conventional boilers (like mine) where would I put brick to do the most good, my floor is grates and sand and the sides are the water transfer surfaces, maybe brick on top? That part doesn't make sense to me, I can see where along the fire tubes in the stove in the article it would be different. Lots of good info, some of it dated and I didn't like the part about someone getting up in the middle of the night to stoke the boiler.
214
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: fire brick
« on: December 06, 2013, 04:21:26 PM »
Stratton, I just read an article on another forum (hope you don't mind Idaho) and part of it deals with fire brick, I am wondering about that also, would it increase my efficiency?
http://www.bae.ncsu.edu/extension/ext-publications/energy/ag398-hot-water-boyette.pdf
http://www.bae.ncsu.edu/extension/ext-publications/energy/ag398-hot-water-boyette.pdf
215
Plumbing / Re: boiler not coming up to temp hellllppppppp
« on: December 06, 2013, 08:45:39 AM »
Thats good to know Heat, I thought I was the only one using that product! My run is about 90 feet with the lower end being at the boiler so I put a short piece of clear hose in with the pex so I could vacuum out that end to double check if water was getting in, never has been any water and I check it every year at start up.
Putting some hot water through it right now for sure, had 11 below (F) this morning.
Putting some hot water through it right now for sure, had 11 below (F) this morning.
216
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: help fan center problem
« on: December 05, 2013, 07:37:55 PM »
It sounds like the relay to me, since the fresh air side works that would seem to prove that the transformer is good. Perhaps the motor is large in regards to the capacity of the contacts, you didn't say what size your fan motor or which size fancenter but the relay should list contact rating, you would want that rating to exceed the motor current by at least 25 percent to get longer life. Could also wear from switching often?
217
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Snow melting sidewalks
« on: December 05, 2013, 06:30:20 PM »
I don't think I would do this, we get lots of snow and ice but I don't like cutting wood more than I need to. I cut and haul all my own wood and that's fine but it's enough for us, I'd rather shovel. Its dark early here and often cold, if it weren't for dealing with the snow and also the wood I would have to go to a gym. Heated driveways have been discussed before, even pics posted, then I could sell the plow.
218
Plumbing / Re: whats kind of underground piping should i use??????
« on: December 04, 2013, 06:52:34 PM »
I used this for a run and no complaints:
http://www.pr.com/press-release/342081
http://www.pr.com/press-release/342081
219
Plumbing / Re: where to buy thermo pex or logger in wisconsin /Minnesota area,
« on: December 04, 2013, 06:49:22 PM »
Used this on my hot tub run, no complaints.
http://www.pr.com/press-release/342081
http://www.pr.com/press-release/342081
220
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: mixing valve?
« on: December 01, 2013, 07:06:18 PM »
Buckgrunt, I have radiant floor heat with a mixing valve also. I used this one:
http://yourhome.honeywell.com/home/Products/Safety+and+Security/Anti-Scald+Water+Mixing+Valves/Thermostatic+Mixing+Valve.htm
There are many ways to do DHW and not all require a mixing valve, a stainless tank with its own zone pump controlled by aquastat in the tank, no mixing just cook the tank to the desired temp, works on OWB or indoor boiler.
http://www.htproducts.com/superstor-ultra-waterheater.html
http://yourhome.honeywell.com/home/Products/Safety+and+Security/Anti-Scald+Water+Mixing+Valves/Thermostatic+Mixing+Valve.htm
There are many ways to do DHW and not all require a mixing valve, a stainless tank with its own zone pump controlled by aquastat in the tank, no mixing just cook the tank to the desired temp, works on OWB or indoor boiler.
http://www.htproducts.com/superstor-ultra-waterheater.html
221
Plumbing / Re: boiler not coming up to temp hellllppppppp
« on: December 01, 2013, 06:52:37 PM »
I used Insul-seal 4" PVC then pulled pex inside it.
http://www.insulseal.com/index.html
This was 9 years ago I don't know if many people do that anymore but it was what my dealer sold me back then and it has worked OK, anybody else use this or seen it? My lines cross my driveway with my well piping about 7 foot down under my driveway so they are deep, the water table is low otherwise that depth would not work. Kind of nice that you can pull the pex lines out if you had to, they are 90'd into the floor of both my boiler and utility room, hope I don't have to mess with that tho. Pretty straight forward installation, no idea how prices compare to Logstor (or similar).
Maybe something for you to look at but my guess is you're going to probably use some extra wood to get through to next year unless you can fix it now.
http://www.insulseal.com/index.html
This was 9 years ago I don't know if many people do that anymore but it was what my dealer sold me back then and it has worked OK, anybody else use this or seen it? My lines cross my driveway with my well piping about 7 foot down under my driveway so they are deep, the water table is low otherwise that depth would not work. Kind of nice that you can pull the pex lines out if you had to, they are 90'd into the floor of both my boiler and utility room, hope I don't have to mess with that tho. Pretty straight forward installation, no idea how prices compare to Logstor (or similar).
Maybe something for you to look at but my guess is you're going to probably use some extra wood to get through to next year unless you can fix it now.
222
Plumbing / Re: boiler not coming up to temp hellllppppppp
« on: December 01, 2013, 06:02:14 PM »
It sounds to me like what your describing the lines may be suspect, something must have changed that you didn't used to get the snowmelt before? Maybe there's water in the insulation of your lines now that wasn't there before from perforation in the insulation/drain tiling or did you have flooding? If the melting is new than something must have changed there?
223
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: newbie question what to buy
« on: December 01, 2013, 12:51:26 PM »
Local dealer that services and has a good rep is a big plus for most. Many conventionals operate in the same fashion and interchange basic parts like pumps, fans and aquastats. There are regulations in some areas possibly preventing you from running a conventional, if that's the case then you already ruled out a bunch of models. You know what your sq. foot is that you want to heat so whichever manufacturer you choose there will only be a few models that will fit your demand, bigger is not necessarily better, find the right size for your application.
224
Shaver Furnace / Re: Sagging Shaver Door
« on: November 30, 2013, 04:50:50 PM »
Most of us seem to be "tinkering" with something every year! Welcome!
225
Shaver Furnace / Re: temp differental on auqastat
« on: November 30, 2013, 04:49:18 PM »
Am pretty sure Scott is not going to like your return temps. It has been discussed many times about return temps being ideal in the over 140 degree range.
Hand held thermometer can be difficult to get correct readings, even infrared guns have inconsistent readings if you can not get them aimed at metal parts.
Everyone has a little different "sweet spots" and it takes some toying around to find what works best, my system seems to run very well at 175 degree set point with 10 degree diff. At least in the majority of the solder time of the year, warmer temps will make differences also I use a lot of scrappy wood in the fall and spring, that kind of wood needs closer diff's.
Hand held thermometer can be difficult to get correct readings, even infrared guns have inconsistent readings if you can not get them aimed at metal parts.
Everyone has a little different "sweet spots" and it takes some toying around to find what works best, my system seems to run very well at 175 degree set point with 10 degree diff. At least in the majority of the solder time of the year, warmer temps will make differences also I use a lot of scrappy wood in the fall and spring, that kind of wood needs closer diff's.