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31
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: One More Time........
« on: November 14, 2014, 03:39:48 PM »Thanks but I really don't like to fly, draw us a diagram of how it is setup!
Wha?? I love to fly, well actually I love the takeoffs and landings, you can keep the 7 or 8 hours between the two. Have flown international with AA, never again. Ponied up and flew with British Airways twice now, got upgraded to business the first time on the trip home, got upgraded to business the last time on the trip there. Business is the shizzle, better menu, better booze and most importantly seats that go flat into a bed.
Did a helicopter ride on Labor Day at the local festival, absolutely loved it, the wife hated it, to each they own. Was supposed to go skydiving last month, jacked back ended that idea.
Here is a joke for ya,
Bob.
Ken and Edna
Ken and his wife Edna went to the state fair every year,
And every year Ken would say,
'Edna, I'd like to ride in that helicopter'
Edna always replied,
'I know Ken, but that helicopter ride is fifty bucks,
And fifty bucks is fifty bucks'
One year Ken and Edna went to the fair,
and Ken said,
'Edna, I'm 75 years old.
If I don't ride that helicopter, I might never get another chance'
To this, Edna replied,
"Ken that helicopter ride is fifty bucks, and fifty bucks is fifty bucks'
The pilot overheard the couple and said,
'Folks I'll make you a deal. I'll take the both of you for a ride. If you can stay quiet for the entire ride and don't say a word I won't charge you a penny!
But if you say one word it's fifty dollars.'
Ken and Edna agreed and up they went.
The pilot did all kinds of fancy maneuvers, but not a word was heard.
He did his daredevil tricks over and over again,
But still not a word...
When they landed, the pilot turned to Ken and said,
'By golly, I did everything I could to get you to yell out, but you didn't.
I'm impressed!'
Ken replied,
'Well, to tell you the truth,
I almost said something when Edna fell out,
32
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: snow
« on: November 14, 2014, 03:27:45 PM »
Got the first snow of the year over night.
Just under my knee and over my Sorels.
Scrambled to get the blower on the tractor, did the neighbors, concession road was not plowed by the township until 4.30 this afternoon............. good thing there was no school.
Hope its not a repeat of last year.
Bob
Just under my knee and over my Sorels.
Scrambled to get the blower on the tractor, did the neighbors, concession road was not plowed by the township until 4.30 this afternoon............. good thing there was no school.
Hope its not a repeat of last year.
Bob
33
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Cold next week
« on: November 13, 2014, 09:14:01 PM »
Snow squalls 20 miles north of us today. I just need the weekend to get my " stuff " together before it gets covered.
Atv's, mower, lawn furniture etc still not under cover. I should have been prepared since it is the middle of November.
Bob
Atv's, mower, lawn furniture etc still not under cover. I should have been prepared since it is the middle of November.
Bob
34
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: major problem solved!!!
« on: November 13, 2014, 09:06:50 PM »
The pipe we use and how we install it is so important, it affects the amount of wood/ therefore work we do and the heat we receive.
I think that because we stick it in the ground and never see it we underestimate it's value. Yet it is a critical part of the system.
Bob
I think that because we stick it in the ground and never see it we underestimate it's value. Yet it is a critical part of the system.
Bob
35
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Cast Iron Radiators
« on: November 12, 2014, 04:36:42 PM »
I installed lots of rads this summer here, I just love the heat.
Silent and steady.
Here is the best link I found to calculate the BTU output of rads.
http://www.columbiaheatingsupply.com/page_images/Sizing%20Cast%20Iron%20Radiator%20Heating%20Capacity%20Guide.pdf
I ran a 3/4 pex line where it was not in plain sight and 3/4 copper where it was. Each rad has it own loop.
I sandblasted mine.
Bob
Silent and steady.
Here is the best link I found to calculate the BTU output of rads.
http://www.columbiaheatingsupply.com/page_images/Sizing%20Cast%20Iron%20Radiator%20Heating%20Capacity%20Guide.pdf
I ran a 3/4 pex line where it was not in plain sight and 3/4 copper where it was. Each rad has it own loop.
I sandblasted mine.
Bob
36
Portage & Main / Re: Hello...New Guy
« on: November 10, 2014, 08:24:33 PM »
Welcome soapcreek,
This is the site for you.
I appreciate your description of the Logstor as a gold nugget.
My son and I wrestled with our roll and did win out in the end, although I needed some advil with my beer afterwards.
Bob
This is the site for you.
I appreciate your description of the Logstor as a gold nugget.
My son and I wrestled with our roll and did win out in the end, although I needed some advil with my beer afterwards.
Bob
37
Portage & Main / Re: BL 2840 - NorthWest Maine
« on: November 10, 2014, 08:11:03 PM »
Hi FareNorth,
Welcome, there are many experienced and helpfull members here.
I have been using my 34/44 about three weeks now. Love it.
Slimjim will assist you as he has so many others here.
Go for the DHW now if at all possible, might as well start saving some money there too.
Bob
Welcome, there are many experienced and helpfull members here.
I have been using my 34/44 about three weeks now. Love it.
Slimjim will assist you as he has so many others here.
Go for the DHW now if at all possible, might as well start saving some money there too.
Bob
38
Portage & Main / Re: Blog: Sloppy's P&M Ultimizer BL 34-44 Installation Thread
« on: November 10, 2014, 07:58:11 PM »
Hi Sloppy,
You may already have installed the Logstor at the rear by now however if you have not you may be interested how I did it.
The lower section of the cabinet can be removed and then take out the appropriate knock outs. They are harder to get out than I expected, very tough metal. Slide the hole over the Logstor and re attach the cabinet to the stove by digging back the Logstor.
Maybe everyone does it this way I don't know. I came up a few inches then stripped to the pex.
I see you have a wire or two going in that way, if not using conduit or B/X you can lay the wire against the Logstor entering the cabinet then take a piece of the Logstor black skin ( you will have some cut off from your piece, ) and snap it around the main logstor for wire protection from below the ground into the stove. There is room.
Bob
You may already have installed the Logstor at the rear by now however if you have not you may be interested how I did it.
The lower section of the cabinet can be removed and then take out the appropriate knock outs. They are harder to get out than I expected, very tough metal. Slide the hole over the Logstor and re attach the cabinet to the stove by digging back the Logstor.
Maybe everyone does it this way I don't know. I came up a few inches then stripped to the pex.
I see you have a wire or two going in that way, if not using conduit or B/X you can lay the wire against the Logstor entering the cabinet then take a piece of the Logstor black skin ( you will have some cut off from your piece, ) and snap it around the main logstor for wire protection from below the ground into the stove. There is room.
Bob
39
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: insulating copper pipe
« on: November 05, 2014, 09:34:45 PM »
Thanks guys for your import.
Here all I can find in a foam type is specifically rated for 180 F maximum. It is available at HD in 1 1/4. However I chased down the manufacturer in Toronto and they have a rubber based polyethelyn foam in 1 1/4 inch in 6 foot sticks with a pullt tab self sealing joint, it actually provides a 1 3/8th inch diameter.
I have a box ( 144 feet ) ordered which should arrive tomorrow. I will report once I receive it.
After finally having the boiler and therefore removing any fire risk from the three wood stoves I used before I cannot risk covering this boiler feed water with anything that is not rated that high. I recall Logstor reporting 1 degree of heat loss per 100 feet of pipe, I am about 135 feet away.
The price of this was quite reasonable, I will report soon as I said and intend to install this weekend. Hopefully it may assist others. I can also use it on the boiler piping.
Bob
Here all I can find in a foam type is specifically rated for 180 F maximum. It is available at HD in 1 1/4. However I chased down the manufacturer in Toronto and they have a rubber based polyethelyn foam in 1 1/4 inch in 6 foot sticks with a pullt tab self sealing joint, it actually provides a 1 3/8th inch diameter.
I have a box ( 144 feet ) ordered which should arrive tomorrow. I will report once I receive it.
After finally having the boiler and therefore removing any fire risk from the three wood stoves I used before I cannot risk covering this boiler feed water with anything that is not rated that high. I recall Logstor reporting 1 degree of heat loss per 100 feet of pipe, I am about 135 feet away.
The price of this was quite reasonable, I will report soon as I said and intend to install this weekend. Hopefully it may assist others. I can also use it on the boiler piping.
Bob
40
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / insulating copper pipe
« on: November 03, 2014, 10:26:49 AM »
Hi guys,
I want to know what options there are for insulation copper pipe. For my install it was necessary after the Logstor entered the house to run 100 feet of 1 1/4 "copper within the basement along the floor perimeter ( 50 feet each way.) Corning SSL fiberglass is $4.44 per foot. I know I can use Roxul but I was hoping there was a slip on foam tube that could take the heat.
By the way, does anyone know if there is a foam sleeve that can take boiler temps?
There is too much heat and it is uncontrollable without it being insulated. I have cast iron rads there for that purpose but they are turned off of course.
Thank you,
Bob
I want to know what options there are for insulation copper pipe. For my install it was necessary after the Logstor entered the house to run 100 feet of 1 1/4 "copper within the basement along the floor perimeter ( 50 feet each way.) Corning SSL fiberglass is $4.44 per foot. I know I can use Roxul but I was hoping there was a slip on foam tube that could take the heat.
By the way, does anyone know if there is a foam sleeve that can take boiler temps?
There is too much heat and it is uncontrollable without it being insulated. I have cast iron rads there for that purpose but they are turned off of course.
Thank you,
Bob
41
Plumbing / Re: Sidearm question
« on: October 29, 2014, 09:52:48 PM »
Maxfli,
Where you have the valve marked in green, I have a very small taco circ, which is .45 amps and 1/40 hp with a ball valve for flow control if needed when the boiler is 24/7 as opposed to shoulder seasons. This moves the DHW through the tank and sidearm continuously. In my shop I use a sidearm only and therefore only have the benefit of thermal circulation but there the demand is minimal.
Hope this helps,
Bob
Where you have the valve marked in green, I have a very small taco circ, which is .45 amps and 1/40 hp with a ball valve for flow control if needed when the boiler is 24/7 as opposed to shoulder seasons. This moves the DHW through the tank and sidearm continuously. In my shop I use a sidearm only and therefore only have the benefit of thermal circulation but there the demand is minimal.
Hope this helps,
Bob
42
Plumbing / Re: unbending logster
« on: October 27, 2014, 06:49:18 PM »
I don't know if this will help you with your particular problem but I was able to make it a little bit easier to work with by running straight hot water via a hose over the section required. Give it 10 minutes of maximum hot water and then be prepared to work it with gloves.
Bob
Bob
43
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Portage and Main owners
« on: October 27, 2014, 06:38:24 PM »
I bought a BL 34/44 this past summer.
P+M head office served as my dealer. Always friendly and very helpful.
My final decision however was confirmed after the discussions I had with Richard.
I had followed the forum closely and had observed how he willingly offered his experience, both technical and practical to help everyone with their problems regardless of what boiler they had.
I was a newbie as far as hydronic heating was concerned but he patiently walked me through it step by step.
An absolutely invaluable asset in my opinion.
Bob
P+M head office served as my dealer. Always friendly and very helpful.
My final decision however was confirmed after the discussions I had with Richard.
I had followed the forum closely and had observed how he willingly offered his experience, both technical and practical to help everyone with their problems regardless of what boiler they had.
I was a newbie as far as hydronic heating was concerned but he patiently walked me through it step by step.
An absolutely invaluable asset in my opinion.
Bob
44
Plumbing / Opinions please, black steel or pex
« on: September 12, 2014, 07:38:24 PM »
Hi Guys,
I should be firing up my P+M BL 34/40 by month's end. It will be heating the house and shop using cast iron radiators, as well as two DHW tanks with side arms.
This week I will be getting pricing from two very experienced plumbers that both have hydronic heating experience. Each man has already expressed their recommendations re the pipe to use.
One man recommends I use pex, because if you use black steel " your always cutting and threading . "
The other believes in the use of black steel, he sets up his equipment then cuts and threads at the back of his truck.
I can appreciate the benefits of each.
Your advice would be welcome,
thank you,
Bob
I should be firing up my P+M BL 34/40 by month's end. It will be heating the house and shop using cast iron radiators, as well as two DHW tanks with side arms.
This week I will be getting pricing from two very experienced plumbers that both have hydronic heating experience. Each man has already expressed their recommendations re the pipe to use.
One man recommends I use pex, because if you use black steel " your always cutting and threading . "
The other believes in the use of black steel, he sets up his equipment then cuts and threads at the back of his truck.
I can appreciate the benefits of each.
Your advice would be welcome,
thank you,
Bob
45
Plumbing / Re: Logstor bending
« on: September 12, 2014, 03:12:56 PM »
Been away from the forum a while, but will soon upload pics of my BL 34/44 install.
To facilitate bending the pipe I used ropes/ straps but also straight hot water from the tap directly around the curve of the pipe. A slow feed at the top of the curve will run downwards and around the lower part of the curve. Give it a good 4 or 5 minutes then walk up the pipe, bounce on it carefully at you can see it start to behave. That black exterior becomes much more flexible.
Bob
To facilitate bending the pipe I used ropes/ straps but also straight hot water from the tap directly around the curve of the pipe. A slow feed at the top of the curve will run downwards and around the lower part of the curve. Give it a good 4 or 5 minutes then walk up the pipe, bounce on it carefully at you can see it start to behave. That black exterior becomes much more flexible.
Bob