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Messages - doo_hicky

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31
Contact your local DCNR office.  The will sell you a permit and tell you where you can cut on state owned land.  I have not done this, but I know people that do it every year, they get some nice wood typically oak. 

Mike

32
Pools & Hot Tubs / lines to the pool
« on: June 28, 2012, 04:57:43 AM »
I'm going to be working with my buddy in hooking up his inground pool to a HX from his furnace.  What does everybody else use for the water lines from the pool to the HX and back to the pool?  I was looking at the black 1 1/2 inch plastic water line(like what you would use for a well), but he is not sure it will thake the temperature from the HX very well.

 I don't forsee him heating to beyond 180, but.....  His heat source is a National 200 cast iron wood/coal boiler in his garage, his run will be 100 ft.  We are planning on having the HX close to the boiler as option 1.  Option 2 would be to run the pex out to the HX in the pool house where the pool pump is then plumb into there.

Other options or opinins would be appreciated

Thanks

Mike

33
Fire Wood / Re: Pulling trees down
« on: June 27, 2012, 06:02:53 AM »
Sorry for not getting anything on here earlier, but been really busy with other things.  This is a 18+ inch cherry that I "dug" out with my pallet forks on my NH L783 skidsteer.  I broke the roots as best as I could and then drove the forks under the root ball to loosen it and then I was able to push it over.  The other trees that I had initially asked about went over without too much trouble, but my buddy and his Kubota hoe helped a good bit(dug around the base while I pulled it over).   With the pallet forks on the machine, I have been able to push over everything else.  Most of the trees average 13 inches in diameter, with some larger.  The worst to get out so far was the couple of hard maples, followed by this cherry, and the easiest being the black locust.  Perserverence is the key!

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34
Fire Wood / Re: Pulling trees down
« on: May 11, 2012, 04:50:55 AM »
Did an exploratory last evening with our large skidsteer and it appears that I am able to push over the standing dead trees with some effort, the live ones are more difficult, but was still able to get a 7 incher down and out.  The biggest dead tree I was able to push over was a little over 8 inches in diameter. 

I went there to basically get things started by clearing some of the crab apples and hawthorn trees away from where we will be working because I don't want any flat tires on any of the equipment. 

My buddy got the use of a Kubota backhoe so the 3 large trees in the center of the field will not be an issue, but I'm still gonna try to yank them out with our big tractor first.

35
General Discussion / Re: New floor/Old problem
« on: May 11, 2012, 04:40:00 AM »
Another thing that you can look for is the leveling compound, which is basically a mixable thin set type of material that you pour onto the floor where you need it and it levels itself out.  Then you can put the underlayment down on top of it.  It can be a little pricey tho.

Mike

36
Fire Wood / Re: Pulling trees down
« on: May 09, 2012, 04:20:24 AM »
Well, that gives me some ideas.  I knew it wasn't going to be easy, but......  We still have to talk with an adjoining landowner to see if we can have permission to cross over his property to get to this field, there is another way to get to it , but a direct route is better.  If for nothing better than entertainment, once we get permission, pictures and even some video of my attempts would be something I wouldn't feel too ashamed to share, provided it doesn't make me look like a complete boob!

I also have a couple of 20,000lb snatch blocks that will accept 1/2" cable, so these would also be utilized to double or triple the pulling strength of the tractor.   I have found that the black locust trees predominately grow in sandy/loamy soil and that their root system typically isn't spread out all over like an oak or maple, so hopefully this will be a saving grace. 

Mike

37
Fire Wood / Pulling trees down
« on: May 08, 2012, 09:31:24 AM »
Well, it looks like I'm going to be busy for quite some time this summer.  A local fella payed my father a visit yesterday and asked if we would be interested in clearing an old field of his.  I think that it is around 9 acres currently.  He had asked if we could pull the coulple of large ones out of the center and then clean up around the perimeter of the field.  The trees are all locust.  The ones in the middle of the field are at least 24 inches in diameter and branch out about 8ft up and are going to be a pain, but the ones around the perimeter are mostly trunk with little top.  This band around the perimeter of the field is at least 60 feet wide and can be wider at times, so there is going to be a boatload of work, but a large amount of wood.  The great thing about locust is that it doesn't rot even if left on the ground for long periods of time(for those that didn't know).

The gentleman wants the trees pulled because he wants us to plow and plant this field then.

Opinions about the best way to pull them out?  We DON'T have a dozer or hoe, but we have 2 130hp International(14,000lbs) farm tractors, a large New Holland skid steer(6000lbs) and a couople of smaller tractors, and lots of heavy cable and chains.

I'm thinking that choking the trees about 10ft up and this should allow the weight of the top of the tree to help get them over.  The trees range anywhere from a 6 inches in diameter to the larger ones being in the 12-18 inch range.  The thought is that the process will go something like this:  choke them, pull them down then away, cut the stump off, then top them, pile them, and finally load them out in 20ft lengths.

Questions, comments?

Thanks Mike


38
Fire Wood / Re: TYPE of CHAIN SAWS USED
« on: May 03, 2012, 06:47:40 AM »
I bought my Husky 353 in 2004 and it has been trouble free.  It has cut everything from big dead locust, beech, oak and maple.  It is a nice lite saw.  IF I ever decide to upgrade I think I will be looking for a saw in the 70cc range  just because....

I have used McCullach and Homelite in the past on the farm, so no real comparison there.

This was my first REAL saw.

39
Plumbing / Re: DIY Pex insulation opinion
« on: May 02, 2012, 04:08:50 AM »
Thats why forums like this are a great thing.  I had not considered that aspect of using this.  Unfortunately for me, I do not have a 100% straight shot.

Thanks for the help.

Mike

40
Plumbing / Re: DIY Pex insulation opinion
« on: May 01, 2012, 06:57:03 AM »
Maybe, but since you get 10  4 foot sections that split in half(can't really see that from the picture), it might not be that hard to work with.

Mike

41
Plumbing / DIY Pex insulation opinion
« on: May 01, 2012, 05:11:14 AM »
I just found this on Ebay and was curious as to opinions.   Item number: 360066868785

It is 5 3/4 OD which would fit into 6" pipe.  You get 40 feet for $115.  I have not contacted them to see what kind of R value it would have, but I'm thinking no more than R8 at the outer edge of the OD to where the edge of the PEX will be.

My plans are to place my boiler in a room on the side of my pole barn and then run it about 120ft to the house and then eventually pour a slab in the pole barn for in slab heat.

This is an additional option that I may be looking at.  I can do this for cheaper than my first option by $150-200.

The first option I have is to get the "cheaper" wrapped insulated stuff in the 4" tile at $774 for 150ft and then put that into a second pipe(I scored some 1" thick walled NG pipe REAL cheap).

Any thoughts will be greatly appreciated.

Anyway this is an GREAT sight with a ton of information.

Thanks

Mike

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