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31
Home Made / Re: Gasification wood boiler build
« on: September 27, 2011, 05:21:07 PM »
The chips are 4MM thick and approx. 1 1/2" wide. We have "oversize" rejects that are anything bigger than 2" and undersize at 3/4". Also our chipper has a metal detector that can find a nail in a 20" log. It stops the belt and reject the 3-4 logs behind this one as well as the suspect log. Cheap to toss $10 in pulpwood than $1800 in chipper knives. It all equals free wood to the employees.
Did you think of doing a castable refractory opposed to bricks? You can mold it to what ever you want. Kind of a clay like consistancy until its fired.
Did you think of doing a castable refractory opposed to bricks? You can mold it to what ever you want. Kind of a clay like consistancy until its fired.
32
Home Made / Re: Gasification wood boiler build
« on: September 27, 2011, 11:41:17 AM »
Working at a papermill I get most any kind of wood. Not dry but not fresh cut either. Been stacked in log form 2 months to year. This wood is chipped on site for our use. Could a gasifier but chips well or a waste of time?
33
Home Made / Re: Gasification wood boiler build
« on: September 27, 2011, 09:20:45 AM »
Do you see a benefit either way of using the two upper chambers flowing into 2 lower chambers like your stove opposed to the single hole and wrap around like the P&M? The NC furnace is laid out like yours or yours like theirs, either way didn’t know if you knew of a reason each is laid out that way. The one holer’ design looks good but its hard to beat a two holer’ when you have a bunch of gas to pass. I’m leaning toward copying the P&M’s gas path but am still looking on what gasifier section to use.
Waterbox thickness? Do you think welded stays between the firebox and outer tank would be better than the stiffeners you installed?
Waterbox thickness? Do you think welded stays between the firebox and outer tank would be better than the stiffeners you installed?
34
Home Made / Re: Gasification wood boiler build
« on: September 27, 2011, 05:39:12 AM »
Good to hear you cleansed the yard. Its amazing how easy pure carbon/charcoal can stay lit or even catch fire. I make maple syrup in the spring. The pan I use was on an arch that did not burn so well. The flues of the pan would build up with carbon. While building a new arch for the pans I sprayed the bottom of it with sparks from a grinder. Not heavy snag grinder sparks but light sparks from a 4” Metabo. I see smoke and figure I lit myself up again. Nope the bottom of the pan had a light glowing ring. The carbon was burning and was very hot. Amazed me. 
Does your 1” plate sit on the brick or on the horizontal portion of the fire box ? With your PID controller what is your temp. differential set at and is a wider spread better? I would guess you want the burn to be as long as possible as you are most efficient at full burn. So would a 15-20 differential be better than the 5 I always seem to see? It would bring the unit up to temp and dwell longer.
Does your 1” plate sit on the brick or on the horizontal portion of the fire box ? With your PID controller what is your temp. differential set at and is a wider spread better? I would guess you want the burn to be as long as possible as you are most efficient at full burn. So would a 15-20 differential be better than the 5 I always seem to see? It would bring the unit up to temp and dwell longer.
35
Home Made / Re: Gasification wood boiler build
« on: September 25, 2011, 07:28:19 PM »
Thanks for the quick answer. I looked but just didnt see the outlet in the pics. As you said you would change things, what might they be? Waterbox material 1/8"? Do you play much with the air mix valves for main air Vs. reburner air? Can you give me rough dimentions on the gasifier tunnel. I assume you made it to fit standard fire brink to avoid cutting or was it just a "bend up what looks good and try it" type?
What keeps the fire alive during the smolder/non-heat cycle? I mean as far as air goes as it looks to be locked down pretty tight. What are your thoughs on feeding air into the sides of the fire lower in the fire box as some commercial units. Whats everybody thought on more passes for the flue gas. P&M has I think 3 passes with very low EGT. Seems the more tube the more heat pulled out.
I hate to point it out but I think a saw a, well lets just say, a brand X car in the yard in one of the youtube vids. I bleed blue myself but my old man came right out of mother MOPAR.
What keeps the fire alive during the smolder/non-heat cycle? I mean as far as air goes as it looks to be locked down pretty tight. What are your thoughs on feeding air into the sides of the fire lower in the fire box as some commercial units. Whats everybody thought on more passes for the flue gas. P&M has I think 3 passes with very low EGT. Seems the more tube the more heat pulled out.
I hate to point it out but I think a saw a, well lets just say, a brand X car in the yard in one of the youtube vids. I bleed blue myself but my old man came right out of mother MOPAR.
36
Home Made / Re: Gasification wood boiler build
« on: September 25, 2011, 12:19:19 AM ».Then a shot showing where water can flow around the back of the heat exchnger trough and between the back tank wall.
Question on the 2nd pic on post #47. I assume hot flue gas goes through the ID of the round flues, what is in contact with the OD of the tube? I see a baffle seperating the waterspace and the tube?
Any idea as to what you stack temps are leaving the unit? Im building a material list and wondered if another pass would be worth the headache. Thanks for the great build thread. Nice to see people still build rather than buy.