Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?

Username: Password:

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - Homerglide

Pages: 1 2 3 [4] 5 6
46
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: House temps up and down
« on: December 08, 2013, 11:43:24 AM »
Hello to All:

I see that the Grundfos 26-99 variable speed set at medium is equal to the Taco 11. That gives a person the flexibility of going a little higher or lower.

About having air locks: I learned through experience that just venting the highest point in the system is not adequate. At every vertical pipe creates an individual area of concern. To finally resolve my issue with air in a closed system, I now have 7 air vents and one air-eliminator above the boiler output.

We are not quite to our season low but have had single digit temps more than once in the overnight hours. Average house temp is 72 while the shops average is 66. This has been the same since September of this year. Once ya get her tuned in you will love it.

47
Electronics / Re: Temp probes
« on: November 19, 2013, 04:08:54 PM »
What type of temperature probes/monitors are you guys using to monitor your in/out going water heat?  I have an IR temp gun, one of the cheap Harbor Frieght ones, and it seems way too inaccurate.  I have found some on ebay, but don't know if they will be ok for this or not.  Any help would be appreciated.

Infrared Temp Guns can be your friend

I have two infrared temperature readers (point and shoot). In the beginning they were frustrating to use, due to my ignorance. I was unaware of what they require to be accurate. These devices are finicky about the surfaces they read accurately.

1) Shiney, smooth or light colored surfaces are a no-no

There are simple fixes that will result in very close readings. Flat black paint or a strip of black friction tape will do the job. The friction tape is more accurate by a small margin.

Try either on a section of pipe. Take a shot at your new target and then a shot three inches away on bare pipe, you will see the difference. Comparing with other reading devices (strap-on bi-metal and digital thermistors) I am now comfortable with the results of the infrared devices.

48
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Loading wood into boiler question
« on: November 06, 2013, 09:58:09 AM »
I see we both have experienced bridging in the primary chamber. "Bridging" where the wood does not fall into the voided area above the nozzle. In my case it happened with too much combustion air or too much velocity of the combustion air.

Originally, I assumed I was not loading it properly or the wood moisture content was out of bounds. So, I sought advice from experienced gasifier users. Thankfully I recieved several ideas and the one that led to the fan speed issue.

AKAWOODBURNER has received many good tips and should get some good results after pinpointing his particular issue(s).

49
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Loading wood into boiler question
« on: November 06, 2013, 08:43:02 AM »


Curious as to how the fan damper can make up for knots and cut offs on the sides of logs causing it to hang and not fall smoothly into the bottom of firebox!??

To me it was about proper stacking and learning to stack it and being picky about where crooked pieces or knots to
[/quote]

The OP did not state weather their spruce is being loaded with knots and odd sizes. I simply offered another consideration to eliminating their bridging problem.

Conventional OWB's and wood gasification boilers are two different animals of the same species. Compare that statement with gasoline and diesel engines.

If an operator has a wood gasifier but uses fuel that is suitable to a conventional OWB, the results will be far from optimum.

50
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Loading wood into boiler question
« on: November 06, 2013, 07:02:07 AM »
Does your Empyre have a variable speed induction blower?

I have a gasser by a european manufacturer which uses variable speed. The electronic controller allows the user to adjust fan speed from 100% down to 50% in increments of 10%. When starting a fire it works well at 100%, but if left there for the duration, there will be bridging. For this unit after a good fire is established, it works well at 60% power and has zero bridging issues. In addition, the blower includes an adjustable damper for further fine tuning.

Possibly your unit could have better results by adjusting the air intake.


51
Electronics / Re: Infared Temp Gun
« on: October 06, 2013, 01:40:44 PM »
Ive done that as well..  even with strap on probes on the line it reads cooler than the actual water temp, u just have to learn by how much.

if you were go place a black tape on supply line at back of stove how much differently did it read than the aquastat?

I have no aquastats to compare with. All sensors are thermistor including the one on top of the boiler which the boiler controller uses and is very close to actual.  The thermistors that are strapped to the pipes and wrapped with insulation are questionable (maybe 4 to 10 degrees cooler than actual).

52
Electronics / Re: Infared Temp Gun
« on: September 19, 2013, 08:59:30 AM »
Infrared Temp Guns can be your friend

I have two infrared temperature readers (point and shoot). In the beginning they were frustrating to use, due to my ignorance. I was unaware of what they require to be accurate. These devices are finicky about the surfaces they read accurately.

1) Shiney, smooth or light colored surfaces are a no-no

There are simple fixes that will result in very close readings. Flat black paint or a strip of black friction tape will do the job. The friction tape is more accurate by a small margin.

Try either on a section of pipe. Take a shot at your new target and then a shot three inches away on bare pipe, you will see the difference. Comparing with other reading devices (strap-on bi-metal and digital thermistors) I am now comfortable with the results of the infrared devices.

53
HeatMaster / Re: Heatmaster releases new gasification line
« on: August 17, 2013, 02:55:41 PM »
The turbulators you are speaking of serve a dual purpose. 1)To create turbulance for a greater heat transfer in the exhaust tubes. 2)To clean the tube of flyash by swinging the handle

Those tube cleaners may or may not be of good use. Some european manufacturers have them but in many users opinion they are worthless. When I received my gasser, I made modifications before installing the unit. The most obvious issue in my mind was the tube cleaning lever and linkage. The tubes need to be cleaned to the bare metal for optimum heat transfer. The tube cleaners from the maker fell far short in getting the tubes clean to the metal. Not only did they not do the job, but the apparatus was smack dab in the way of manual cleaning. So, to get to the point, I removed the entire aparatus and hung chains in the vertical tubes to cause turbulance for a better heat transfer in the tubes. The chains are easily removed for cleaning the tubes with a cordless drill and wire brush attachment.

In using that type of boiler it doesn't take long to see how a light film of flyash effects the heat transfer inside the tubes. By checking flue temps an operator will see when the tubes need attention. Lower flue temps equal more transfer in the tubes while higher flue temps equal less transfer.

54
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: OWB inside my pole barn...?
« on: August 15, 2013, 01:26:12 PM »
It sounds like you are in just the right "predicament" to go with a gasifier. With the gasifiers it is very rare to see creosote issues. When the exhaust leaves the boiler there is little to no smoke. With the gasifying wood boiler, complaints from neighbors over smoke issues are nearly nonexistent. There are two concerns with such a boiler tho: 1) To optimize the system, water storage is a must 2) The wood needs to be split smaller and get to a dryer moisture content of 20%. On the plus side, they require less wood through the heating season. Gasifying wood boilers run in the neighborhood of 80% efficiency compared to the traditional OBW's which are rarely above 45%.

55
For Sale / Re: Grundfos Circulator UPS26-99FC 3-Speed 115v
« on: August 15, 2013, 08:37:15 AM »
Yeah, low speed is too much also. The purpose of the circulator is to charge the stotrage tanks of a closed system. Originally went with a 15-58 but it would not keep up with the boiler output. Tried the 26-99 and even on low the boiler couldn't keep up with the flow. Finally found the sweet spot with a Grundfos 15-100. Boiler out temp is steady at 190-195 out without a hickup.

Anyway the Grundfos 26-99 3-speed may very well fit an OWB open system. See pump curve at:

http://www.intermountainsales.net/files/SuperBrute%20Family%20Curves.pdf

56
For Sale / Grundfos Circulator UPS26-99FC 3-Speed 115v
« on: August 10, 2013, 12:39:50 PM »
Here for sale is a a 26-99 3-speed 115 volt for sale. Just got it and find that it pushes too much for this situation. So it was used for maybe 15 minutes.

http://www.pexsupply.com/Grundfos-52722512-UPS26-99FC-3-Speed-Circulator-Pump-1-6-HP-115-volt-5587000-p

$200 delivered to your door

57
Portage & Main / Re: Frequency of cleanings - Opt. 250
« on: May 14, 2013, 05:58:21 PM »
I do agree its not bad if your on a weekly schedule, was really pi***d yesterday to find after only 5 days burning the airbox was stuffed with creosote and the horizontal tubes were HALF plugged. My wood is not unreasonable either ranging from 22 to 27 percent. They run ALOT better when its cold and overnite lows arent 35.

Today is another day

When burning overly moist wood, or when water return temps are too low; THERE WILL BE CREOSOTE IN THE FIREBOX.....

In my experience with gasification boilers: It is critical to have water return temps at 140 degrees minimum and wood moisture content below 20%. If not, the wood fired boiler becomes a high maintenance appliance.

My experience is with an insulated shed as the boiler room and includes 1,000 gallons of storage. With a lower than 20% moisture content (I recommend 16 to 20 percent) and return water temps at the minimum of 140 degrees, cleaning is a minor issue and easily accomplished.

These two critical elements can be met by planning two years in advance with your firewood chores and by installing a thermic valve for boiler return temperature control.

There is a forum at hearth dot com called the boiler room where there are members with years of experience in these matters. Gasification wood boilers are different than a typical OWB and require different burn methods. Getting to know the appliance you have is instrumental in achieving maximum efficiency. Using a gasifier can cut your wood consumption by as much as 45% depending on system variables and proper seasoning of the fuel.

58
Aqua-Therm / Has Aqua-Therm Closed Its Doors
« on: April 10, 2013, 07:06:32 AM »
Does anyone have information concerning Aqua-Therm?

59
Electronics / Re: one thermostat solution
« on: April 10, 2013, 07:00:19 AM »
Hey Rick:  Thanks for the post. In my planning I assumed to use two thermostats but this approach offers remote adjustment in one unit. Very nice option.

60
Equipment / Re: Rugged Split
« on: March 25, 2013, 02:54:50 PM »
looks exactly like a northstar from northern tool

Really?

Pages: 1 2 3 [4] 5 6