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46

Plumbing / Re: circulator pump location

« on: October 23, 2011, 05:09:52 PM »

 high temp slicone works good but you might check it know and then, as for pump it doesnt matter. mount at furnace thier will be less chance to suck air. the water pressure balances out .

47

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: to dry...or...too dry???

« on: October 23, 2011, 04:59:00 PM »

marty, i have pine slabs from my sawmill i have burned,it smokes like a locomotive. i think its because its so dry that the fire gets so hot and it cant get enough oxygen. i mix them in with the load and its fine, i would say the guy knows his stuff.

48

Central Boiler / Re: Can't get the plugs out

« on: October 22, 2011, 09:38:00 PM »

weld a 1/2 ''nut to fitting ..plug weld the center of the nut,cool it with a wet rag. let it cool down a bit then try it .a impact gun will work better if you have one.

49

Home Made / Re: starting a build i have lots of questions

« on: October 22, 2011, 09:29:30 PM »

by the way welcome! there are some really good people with good info here,if you take bits and pieces and combine them youll do something cool. sounds like you got the basics figured out. 2 things that help with the effiecentcy ,getting the gasses to ignite prior to leaving firebox,and capturing the heat in the exhaust. if you go to garn wood furnaces and check out the ''little magic refractory piece ''they use in the exhaust . that is where it gets super heated to ignite unburned fuel..smoke. then it runs thru a good length of exhaust ,submerged in water before it exits out.if you can do these things youll be sure to get the results your looking for.

50

Home Made / Re: starting a build i have lots of questions

« on: October 22, 2011, 07:34:28 PM »

anything you build you will be happy with.  if you build the  traditional style furnace , i would recommend octogon or round,mainly for the strength,square has creasote issues worst.i have a round style and it has very little acumulation of creasote.the flu down low in the firebox is good ,smoke has to pass by hot coals helping it gasify . if you decide to build a gassifier style ,you need to ask yourself if the extra labor and materials  are going to pay off? it might be the diiference of a cord or two in savings,if you buy cord wood in log lenght thats about 150 bucks more ..around here anyway ,not really much. gassers are supposed to be less smoke but once you get the hang of it you can get the old style to do very well. last , i never hear guys say anything about using stainless steel for the water jacket? this is undoubtably the biggest problem with owb ,how many posts and pics have you seen on here with rott holes in water tank. the cost of 304 grade i know is alot but look how much your saving...i think its a good investment. ......just my 2 cents.

51

Home Made / Re: Starting to build !

« on: October 20, 2011, 06:14:52 PM »

New mod what are you planning for exhaust? I have a 8 ft chimney,5 ft are in water and firebox,2/3 into firebox .  There is a lot heat to capture here,also with stack 2/3 in fire it helps "I believe" to get to gassifier stage.

52

Plumbing / Re: Question....

« on: October 19, 2011, 07:14:19 PM »

RSI,is that chart for a water coil that goes in a air plenum? Doesnt look like a flat plate chart.

53

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Heat loss thru lines and hx

« on: October 19, 2011, 06:28:17 PM »

Not looking for calculations,just comparison.looks to be a 2-3deg defferance from furnace to hx,hard to tell cause of gauges ,no increments.

54

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Thinking of switching...

« on: October 19, 2011, 06:12:25 PM »

I also agree to some point about stainless,Some mfg use 409 stainless for furnaces ok for water tank but not a very durable firebox,do to it's expansion and contraction rate. Here in th north east central boilers are very popular .gassifiers are also getting to be all that u can get around here to.have ever seen or heard of a garn wood furnace? They are the  cadillac of wood furnaces, price and burn procedures don't appeal to some.I would check the posts here for weeding out the not so good .i have a homemade and not bias to any brand.don't be fooled by the tin siding and gadgets,I know it's not like you can go and see the mfg process of these things and there are a lot to chose from.

55

Plumbing / Re: Question....

« on: October 19, 2011, 02:43:22 PM »

Every hx is going to add head pressure to the calculations . I believe the 40 plate hx I have alone was adding 12 to 14 ft of head pressure? Added to line size and length  it adds up quickly .

56

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Heat loss thru lines and hx

« on: October 19, 2011, 02:29:29 PM »

Just curios to see how much loss in heat I have in my homeade insulated lines. I have 200ft round trip buried lines and 40 plate hx in basement,with no heat load draw I lose about 1deg per hour with circulator running. Does this sound about right? Not that I'm complaining but a friend that is installing a furnace was asking if it's worth buying the good stuff. Also does any one insulate their hx, mines not and throws off a lot of heat. But being in basement I like the residual heat it provides.

57

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Lit her off tonight for the first time this season.

« on: October 19, 2011, 02:04:47 PM »

Lit her up in sept after repairing a leaky weld in the stainless water tank.runs once a day to maintain temp for hot water.

58

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: firebox wall thickness

« on: October 05, 2011, 09:02:46 PM »

jackel your right on about theory  and ideas. as a fellow homebuilt  owner you can see real world results and tell people your info , accurate info first hand and not from a sales advertisement.

59

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / how do you figure out btu output

« on: October 05, 2011, 08:50:11 PM »

heres one for the math guys. my furnace ,with no heat load took 1 hour to raise 1200 gallons of water 20 degs . how much btu output would be reqiured to do this? and how many btu's would be stored? wheres wiilie g when ya need him! lol.

60

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: firebox wall thickness

« on: October 05, 2011, 08:35:39 PM »

when you say radiators are you talking about cast iron rads,baseboard rads,or automotive?anybody thats been in a old house iron rads knows how long the steel holds temperature.thinner baseboard rads expell heat faster but require more flow of hot water thru them. a automotive rad is designed to expell heat . for friendly debate,i believe you said it was harder to transfer heat with thicker steel,to the water and not the goal to store heat in the steel. were do you thinkthe absorbed heat in the steel goes when its submerged in a tank of water? water doesen't absorb heat? thick stock is radiating heat in water after the fire stops. we all know how wood furnaces work ,when air flow stops entering firebox it locks heat in thats why smoke stops flowing from chimney , therefore any thing hot inside stays hot for extended periods of time.thicker stock stores more energy and can release it into water longer after the fire is off.thinner stock would release the same way but would run out stored energy quicker . what purpose does fire brick serve in wood  stoves?2 things..keeps fire from burnning thru thin wall stoves and stores heat energy then radiating out to room .mass holds energy ..thats theory.