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61
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: power outage
« on: February 15, 2014, 03:01:04 PM »
I would just light the stove in the basement. I would run the generator enough to circulate and avoid frozen lines if it was for days. Mine would just sit there and smolder even if a full load; not too worried about overheating.
62
Fire Wood / Re: log splitters
« on: February 15, 2014, 02:57:04 PM »
It depends on what and how much you split on what size you would need electric or gas. I would look at DHT (Dirty Hand Tools). They look like a good one and are sold at Menards around here. Just had a big sale last week for their 27 ton $999.00 with a rebate. Has a Kohler horizontal engine.
I own a 22 ton Huskee (speeco) from Tractor Supply. They area around $999.00 and sometimes on sale cheaper. It does everything I need it to. No major complaints. Very good splitter and goes thru any wood I have put in it. Elm, oak, whatever. Only problems are it has a smaller fuel tank and the briggs engine doesn't have a choke. I keep in a warm garage so starting is fine for me, but in the cold it is harder to start. I didn't think the gas tank would be much of an issue, but if I am splitting for a day it seems like I am always refueling.
If I had to do it over again, I would look at the DHT as the engine is better and is on the correct side away from the operator.
The ones I looked at were the Speeco/Huskees, Northern Tool and a green made in China at Menards. Went with the Huskee mainly because of price. I like the option of vertical and horz. I do most horizontal, but some big pieces I start with vertical. Some guys here like to do all vertical. Depends on height, back and just what each of us like. Most of the spendy professional grade ones are horizontal only, some with log lifts. Another thing to look for is some horizontal only have fixed wedge and vertical option ones have moving wedge. All I have ever used is a moving wedge, so that is what I was looking for. The bigger ones also have slower cycle times and weigh more if you are moving it by hand. The slower cycle time is not a big deal if you are splitting tough stuff as the smaller ones are running the pumps in slow 2nd stage a lot.
I am not a big fan of the ones with the front-attach cylinder like the MTD's. I guess I would rather have one with a standard cylinder in case I would ever need to replace it and be able to find one off the shelf. Do some research here and on Hearth.com. Lots of good threads on splitters.
I own a 22 ton Huskee (speeco) from Tractor Supply. They area around $999.00 and sometimes on sale cheaper. It does everything I need it to. No major complaints. Very good splitter and goes thru any wood I have put in it. Elm, oak, whatever. Only problems are it has a smaller fuel tank and the briggs engine doesn't have a choke. I keep in a warm garage so starting is fine for me, but in the cold it is harder to start. I didn't think the gas tank would be much of an issue, but if I am splitting for a day it seems like I am always refueling.
If I had to do it over again, I would look at the DHT as the engine is better and is on the correct side away from the operator.
The ones I looked at were the Speeco/Huskees, Northern Tool and a green made in China at Menards. Went with the Huskee mainly because of price. I like the option of vertical and horz. I do most horizontal, but some big pieces I start with vertical. Some guys here like to do all vertical. Depends on height, back and just what each of us like. Most of the spendy professional grade ones are horizontal only, some with log lifts. Another thing to look for is some horizontal only have fixed wedge and vertical option ones have moving wedge. All I have ever used is a moving wedge, so that is what I was looking for. The bigger ones also have slower cycle times and weigh more if you are moving it by hand. The slower cycle time is not a big deal if you are splitting tough stuff as the smaller ones are running the pumps in slow 2nd stage a lot.
I am not a big fan of the ones with the front-attach cylinder like the MTD's. I guess I would rather have one with a standard cylinder in case I would ever need to replace it and be able to find one off the shelf. Do some research here and on Hearth.com. Lots of good threads on splitters.
63
Plumbing / Re: Double wall flat plate?
« on: February 13, 2014, 07:56:26 PM »
Little John,
I live in Minnesota also. I have high water pressure - 50-75psi, so I would have water running out the top of the boiler from a leak. I guess I am just looking for reassurance that my though process is correct.
I live in Minnesota also. I have high water pressure - 50-75psi, so I would have water running out the top of the boiler from a leak. I guess I am just looking for reassurance that my though process is correct.
64
Plumbing / Re: Double wall flat plate?
« on: February 13, 2014, 11:35:01 AM »
Thanks for the replies. That is what I thought. I think I will get one. Haven't cut and soldered copper for a while. The one on Outdoor Furnace Supply is UL Rated, not sure on Badger.
I hate hearing the water heater coming on when I know I could heat without it. I would think the investment would pay off in less than a year.
I hate hearing the water heater coming on when I know I could heat without it. I would think the investment would pay off in less than a year.
65
Plumbing / Double wall flat plate?
« on: February 13, 2014, 06:57:39 AM »
I am considering replacing my sidearm tube heat exchanger with a flat plate. The tube never thermosiphoned and I have it in series before the heater tank now, but I think it is only heating about half of my hot water. It is about a foot taller than my short power vented heater and that is why it wouldn't thermosiphon.
Anyway, the reason I didn't go with a flat plate in the first place was it was a new house build and the inspector wouldn't allow an exchanger that could allow boiler water to mix with domestic. I wonder how much of a concern that would be for me as the domestic water is at 50-70 PSI and the boiler water is much less. Probably less than 15 ft of head pressure from top of furnace, so maybe 20 psi? If it did leak I would have an overflowing furnace before treated water would get in my shower.
I found double wall exchangers on pex supply for about 10x20 10 plate $600.00 or 5x13 20 plate $721.00. I can find good standard 20 plate exchangers online for under $200.
Should I have any concern about installing a regular one inline before the heater tank? I have been wanting to do this for a while. With propane prices and my tank at 30% I am looking at not having to buy propane until the middle of the summer when prices hopefully will come down.
Anyway, the reason I didn't go with a flat plate in the first place was it was a new house build and the inspector wouldn't allow an exchanger that could allow boiler water to mix with domestic. I wonder how much of a concern that would be for me as the domestic water is at 50-70 PSI and the boiler water is much less. Probably less than 15 ft of head pressure from top of furnace, so maybe 20 psi? If it did leak I would have an overflowing furnace before treated water would get in my shower.
I found double wall exchangers on pex supply for about 10x20 10 plate $600.00 or 5x13 20 plate $721.00. I can find good standard 20 plate exchangers online for under $200.
Should I have any concern about installing a regular one inline before the heater tank? I have been wanting to do this for a while. With propane prices and my tank at 30% I am looking at not having to buy propane until the middle of the summer when prices hopefully will come down.
66
Heatmor / Re: new heatmor and having huge issues
« on: February 12, 2014, 12:11:16 PM »
I would love to help, but I don't have any first hand experience with a gassifer as my older Heatmor likely is not anything like Roxann's. I have never had a problem keeping enough heat in mine with any wood wet or dry.
As had already been said I would make sure the ash tubes are clean.
I would also take a good look at the wood. Is it split small enough for a gassifier? Is it dry enough for a gassifier? I assume it is critical to have good wood for her unit to run properly and give off enough heat. I assume there is not a blazing hot fire when it is not keeping up?
In my PE spectrum EPA wood stove in my house it will burn like blazes with good secondary flames with dry wood below 20% moisture. I had to modify it to shut the damper completely or it overheats on the factory low setting. If I put in wood 25% it will fire, but slower with the air control turned up higher and not produce as much heat. Over 30% I may as well give up as it steams and basically just struggles to get a flame and blackens the glass.
I got my moisture meter from Harbor Freight for about $15. Lowes, Home Depot and Menards may also have them. Basically you resplit a piece of wood and stick the probes in the grain of the fresh split and it tells you the moisture content. Needs to be above freezing. I have played around with mine and it is useful when in doubt. I do have variations in my piles depending on front/back top or bottom.
In short, it sounds like either ash cleaning or wood quality is the problem based on what I hear. I would lean toward the wood since wet wood will add to the ash problem. Unfortunately most sellers selling seasoned or dry wood is closer to 30% moisture. Good wood stove burners get ahead on their wood for the next year. Outdoor furnace users tend to burn whatever, but I think the gassifiers are going to change that.
As had already been said I would make sure the ash tubes are clean.
I would also take a good look at the wood. Is it split small enough for a gassifier? Is it dry enough for a gassifier? I assume it is critical to have good wood for her unit to run properly and give off enough heat. I assume there is not a blazing hot fire when it is not keeping up?
In my PE spectrum EPA wood stove in my house it will burn like blazes with good secondary flames with dry wood below 20% moisture. I had to modify it to shut the damper completely or it overheats on the factory low setting. If I put in wood 25% it will fire, but slower with the air control turned up higher and not produce as much heat. Over 30% I may as well give up as it steams and basically just struggles to get a flame and blackens the glass.
I got my moisture meter from Harbor Freight for about $15. Lowes, Home Depot and Menards may also have them. Basically you resplit a piece of wood and stick the probes in the grain of the fresh split and it tells you the moisture content. Needs to be above freezing. I have played around with mine and it is useful when in doubt. I do have variations in my piles depending on front/back top or bottom.
In short, it sounds like either ash cleaning or wood quality is the problem based on what I hear. I would lean toward the wood since wet wood will add to the ash problem. Unfortunately most sellers selling seasoned or dry wood is closer to 30% moisture. Good wood stove burners get ahead on their wood for the next year. Outdoor furnace users tend to burn whatever, but I think the gassifiers are going to change that.
67
Fire Wood / Re: Bulk or pulp cords in So. MN.
« on: February 08, 2014, 08:50:42 AM »
I have heard the large firewood suppliers around here are having a hard time getting logs to process now. I assume the loggers don't have much.
I would try calling tree services that are still working taking down urban trees right now. I bet you could find one with a clam truck that would have some.
I would try calling tree services that are still working taking down urban trees right now. I bet you could find one with a clam truck that would have some.
68
Heatmor / Re: Burning 200 ss 15% moiture oak
« on: February 07, 2014, 12:55:02 PM »
Ya I knew local dealer was ripping in to me at $40 .. I needed it in a panic he had to order it in took a week . They called it semi hose
But it must be the silicone hose its bright blue with red hose coating inside . and very soft rubber but super tuff . [/quote]
That's exactly the stuff I got. Super soft, almost a little greasy blue outside and red inside. The new heavy trucks (semi's) are using it because of the durability in the higher heat engine compartments of emission controlled diesels.
I am watching my wood in my shed disappear quicker than ever before. I have plenty close by though so no worries. I am feeling good about all the money I am saving this year over propane. 2 years ago when we didn't have a winter I got sick of filling the wood, but this year I have been out splitting, cutting and moving (where I can between drifts) every chance I get even when it is below zero.
But it must be the silicone hose its bright blue with red hose coating inside . and very soft rubber but super tuff . [/quote]
That's exactly the stuff I got. Super soft, almost a little greasy blue outside and red inside. The new heavy trucks (semi's) are using it because of the durability in the higher heat engine compartments of emission controlled diesels.
I am watching my wood in my shed disappear quicker than ever before. I have plenty close by though so no worries. I am feeling good about all the money I am saving this year over propane. 2 years ago when we didn't have a winter I got sick of filling the wood, but this year I have been out splitting, cutting and moving (where I can between drifts) every chance I get even when it is below zero.
69
Heatmor / Re: Burning 200 ss 15% moiture oak
« on: February 06, 2014, 06:36:03 AM »
I forgot to say that I keep my house at 67-69 and garage at 59(lowest the wirsbo thermostat will go).
Even though these units will burn wet wood they sure do work better when the wood is dry. I only have the door tapping & boiling when burning dry wood also. The box elder doesn't do it much, but dry oak and elm do.
I just bought 5 ft of silicone(blue) hose at NAPA for $3.59 / LF. With tax that is just over $30.
Even though these units will burn wet wood they sure do work better when the wood is dry. I only have the door tapping & boiling when burning dry wood also. The box elder doesn't do it much, but dry oak and elm do.
I just bought 5 ft of silicone(blue) hose at NAPA for $3.59 / LF. With tax that is just over $30.
70
Heatmor / Re: Burning 200 ss 15% moiture oak
« on: February 05, 2014, 02:37:58 PM »
I have more of the bubbling noise burning drier wood also. When you change the hoses check the 90 bends for buildup. I did that last spring and mine were very clean. I still get the thumping sometimes. I will check my lower hose for length; I don't think it is kinked. I change my door hoses when the poly fibers crack when squeezed. 3 times in 7 years. That top hose gets pretty hot and lots of flexing opening the door. I am going to replace with silicone hose next time. Kind of spendy, but should last over twice as long.
As far as wood usage, I have gone thru a lot this year also. About 9 cord so far. I burned a lot of box elder thru Christmas time. I got lucky and have mostly all bur oak on the face of the pile in the shed for the last month in the cold spell. Since I got ahead all my wood is 1-3 years stacked before I use it. Even with rounds not split moisture levels are up to 30% on the 1 yr box elder and lower 20's on the oak, elm & cherry. Looks like I will be plowing a path to that Siberian elm pile in backyard that was planned for next year come around March 1 this year.
I heat a well insulated 1500 Sq.Ft. house (main + basement=3000 Sq.Ft.) and a 1200 Sq.Ft. attached garage. Thankfully my propane tank sits at 35% and will run my range for quite a while before I need a fill up.
As far as wood usage, I have gone thru a lot this year also. About 9 cord so far. I burned a lot of box elder thru Christmas time. I got lucky and have mostly all bur oak on the face of the pile in the shed for the last month in the cold spell. Since I got ahead all my wood is 1-3 years stacked before I use it. Even with rounds not split moisture levels are up to 30% on the 1 yr box elder and lower 20's on the oak, elm & cherry. Looks like I will be plowing a path to that Siberian elm pile in backyard that was planned for next year come around March 1 this year.
I heat a well insulated 1500 Sq.Ft. house (main + basement=3000 Sq.Ft.) and a 1200 Sq.Ft. attached garage. Thankfully my propane tank sits at 35% and will run my range for quite a while before I need a fill up.
71
Heatmor / Re: new heatmor and having huge issues
« on: February 05, 2014, 07:44:23 AM »
I thought all the Heatmor's had augers. Did they have one with a pan?
72
Heatmor / Re: new heatmor and having huge issues
« on: February 03, 2014, 01:30:59 PM »
Good that it looks like you are getting it fixed...hopefully. My Heatmor has the two Honeywell aquastats. One on left is for fan and on the right is for high limit. I have my high limit set to turn my furnace fan on in the house to dissipate heat in the event of an overheat it turns on 120 volts to a wire(came from factory like this). I used 12/3 wire underground and used the red wire to turn on the fan on - wired it back to the furnace with a transformer to lower voltage. It went on twice my first year - once leaving the ash plug off and once not having the outer door shut tight. Why is the house so warm? Oh S*T must be overheating again.
Sure sounds like you have a bad aquastat for your burn fan. Is the high limit wire hooked up to anything like mine is with a fan or alarm? If it is not there is no way to cool it down or alert you to a problem until you walk out to look.
Sure sounds like you have a bad aquastat for your burn fan. Is the high limit wire hooked up to anything like mine is with a fan or alarm? If it is not there is no way to cool it down or alert you to a problem until you walk out to look.
73
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Need help (long)
« on: January 21, 2014, 12:08:53 PM »
Does the 2000 SF include the basement? If not that is a lot of area to heat.
How is the house insulated? Could you be loosing that much heat?
What type of underground pipe? 147-153? 6 degrees seems like a lot to me and may be the problem. If the underground lines get wet they loose a lot.
Is your wood split or whole rounds. Even wet, it should do ok but will use more. I find the whole rounds seem to last longer, but split dries better. You could try different sizes and see if there is a difference.
How is the house insulated? Could you be loosing that much heat?
What type of underground pipe? 147-153? 6 degrees seems like a lot to me and may be the problem. If the underground lines get wet they loose a lot.
Is your wood split or whole rounds. Even wet, it should do ok but will use more. I find the whole rounds seem to last longer, but split dries better. You could try different sizes and see if there is a difference.
74
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: anyone ever add insulation to there owb?
« on: January 09, 2014, 07:00:24 AM »
I added about 8" to the top and foil bubble type on the outside doors of my Heatmor 200. I was loosing too much heat on windy days. Seems to help some. The roof insulation had gaps between the batts and pretty sloppy. I only added as much as would fit and didn't try to pack it in there tight. The wrap on the doors helps as those thin doors leak a lot of heat - especially the back door facing the west wind.
75
Fire Wood / Re: Thirty Below
« on: January 06, 2014, 02:32:28 PM »
I know this thread is a year old, but we are again having mid 20's below in Minnesota (southern). I love it when I don't have to pay for gas. I light up the wood stove inside the house for a little added boost in the evening and have no problem filling the outdoor with some oak and elm at suppertime and still having plenty left over in the morning.