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Messages - wreckit87

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76
Plumbing / Re: Adding heat to the garage
« on: April 11, 2019, 03:29:41 PM »
So 60 ft of Logstor and 30ft of 1" on the primary? Then you wish to add another 130ft of 1" to the detached garage as a secondary loop for a unit heater? How big will this unit heater be? If I understand your setup correctly and it were me, I'd leave the primary as it is instead of complicating it with 2 extra circs but turn the 26-99 up to maintain decent delta T with a full heat call. Then throw a pair of tees in that primary loop with a dedicated circ for the detached garage loop. All this will be dependent on heat load and flow rate though, and nobody can give an educated answer without them.

77
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: 19 years never drained
« on: April 11, 2019, 03:22:15 PM »
Despite better judgement, I'm going to flush and refill mine this summer with soft water after 3 winters. It's been fine with the hard water, always tested well, but there is a lot of iron in the water and it's getting kinda brown which I do not like.

78
Lol now you're pushing it! We're finally set up for block wood after 15 years of burning, will NOT be switching to chips. 75 miles away I could get all the arborist chips I want but even though all the tree trimmers live in my area, they can't bring chips home as it's illegal to cross county lines with them

79
Still burning that C375 wreckit? I'd like to swap out for a new unit this summer if I get time. Waiting to see what's coming in new models.

Yup, had a really busy fall and far too much going on so I never ended up swapping to a Crown as intended. Don't think I'm going to either, as I added another 1600 sq ft for a total of 6000 and will be insulating another 800 next year to keep above freezing and the C surprised me again with consumption this year and ran about 9 cord through so far with 2.5-3 of them being total garbage softwood. Next time I buy a boiler, if that ever happens, will likely be a gasser as much as I hate the idea of caving to peer pressure lol. I'm wheeling and dealing on some acreage down the road that I'd like to build a new 7200 sq ft shop on but will be doing geothermal there if it works out. Hoping I'm out of the wood burning game within the next couple years

80
We've been teetering at mid 40's highs and low 20's lows for a few weeks now- it's too warm to let it run all day because it idles for 14 hours, but too cold to shut it down at night or it'll be 50 in the house in the morning. I'd been just killing the power to the stove in the morning and firing it back up at night, but it's now been off for 3 days as it's 66 today but 45 tomorrow and then low-mid 30's for the next week with 6-39" of snow coming Thursday depending which channel you watch, so I'll light it back up tomorrow night probably. I have 2 cord left in the shed, so there will be enough to last until June if it stays 30 but I'm thinking 2 more weeks, tops, before it gets and stays warm

81
Plumbing / Re: Insulation for 1 inch copper
« on: April 04, 2019, 06:01:00 PM »
The foam stuff works fine, personally I prefer the rubberized stuff like is on refrigerant linesets. Menards carries it, not sure about HD

82
Plumbing / Re: LogStor Connections
« on: March 28, 2019, 07:17:20 PM »
Good thing I didn't say anything about hammering a barbed fitting into pex then, huh? I prefer the 1-1/4" pex crimp fittings to the Logstor fittings, although that is none of your business- hence why I suggested minding your own. Perhaps you've never been fishing, only someone who has ever been fishing would get that reference. Anyway, back to the subject at hand

83
Plumbing / Re: LogStor Connections
« on: March 28, 2019, 06:24:06 PM »
Perhaps you should watch your own bobber!

84
Plumbing / Re: LogStor Connections
« on: March 28, 2019, 05:53:53 PM »
Looks like a straight 1" barbed adapter. I'm not certain whether or not the Urecon/Logstor is PEX-A or not, but I do know I've heated and hammered a whole lot of fittings into it. Did the supplier give you crimp rings or t-bolt clamps or what?

85
Plumbing / Re: Orientation of Plate Heat Exchanger
« on: March 24, 2019, 08:13:41 AM »
They will get to be boiler temp, 180ish degrees. Wood is fine, or metal- whatever. What works well is a simple "drive" for joining ductwork together. It's a thin galvanized steel cleat that you can easily bend to conform to the plate and screw it to the wall to hold it steady- I would not hang a plate from the piping

86
Plumbing / Re: Orientation of Plate Heat Exchanger
« on: March 22, 2019, 03:47:23 PM »
They're least prone to buildup when standing upright, which is the reason you see most oriented that way. I think you're talking about laying it on its side right? With the ports facing horizontally? If so, that is also acceptable but will be a bit more prone to sediment and calcium collection

87
Finish floor height or on top of finished floor both work out. Can get a thicker ring to make the flush one work but typically they lay on top of finished floor from what I see in commercial, and I've done them both ways residentially

88
Electronics / Re: thermostat for infloor heat
« on: March 13, 2019, 08:48:26 PM »
Oh wow, very well insulated it seems. Ideally, for max efficiency, the pump would run 24/7 at the minimum water temp required to heat the space but that's unreasonable in most cases. Although 95* SWT is considerably lower than most already, your cycle times say it could be lowered further yet. Very impressive

89
Electronics / Re: thermostat for infloor heat
« on: March 13, 2019, 05:00:02 AM »
Any idea how long it runs per cycle? Once per 24 hours can be deceiving, does it run for an hour or for 23 hours?

90
Electronics / Re: thermostat for infloor heat
« on: March 12, 2019, 04:43:07 PM »
Must not be keeping it very warm in there? At that rate is roughly 5,000 BTU per hour per loop of radiant so unless this is a very large building it shouldn't be pulling so hard on the boiler to maintain temp.

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