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91
HeatMaster / Re: Has anyone installed runners on the legs of their heatmaster?
« on: July 05, 2015, 04:10:14 PM »
Your delivery driver might not be patient enough for all that fabrication. Can your local rental store and get a Lull for two hours. I used the back end of a backhoe for my 10k and it almost wasn't enough.
92
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: When to shut down
« on: May 26, 2015, 11:01:21 AM »
It took my stove almost a week to get down to ambient temp. These suckers are very well insulated!
93
HeatMaster / Re: Momma little upset!!
« on: May 21, 2015, 10:14:47 AM »
Been off for 2 months. This "cold" snap has my electric furnace running now. Have to deal with the lack of hot water. It does make a huge difference! I'm 100% cleaned out now and there is no way I'm firing it back up till October.
Got my pool up and running and trying to warm it up with a solar cover.
I've been looking at pool exchange tubes and such. Really itching to get another source hooked up to the stove! Maybe I'll have something up and running by this fall.
Got my pool up and running and trying to warm it up with a solar cover.
I've been looking at pool exchange tubes and such. Really itching to get another source hooked up to the stove! Maybe I'll have something up and running by this fall.
94
HeatMaster / Re: In-Depth Review
« on: May 18, 2015, 07:51:00 AM »
Mr. CRJR, I'm not sure. I looked it up once to price spare parts from Grainger, but I don't remember. Next time I'm out by the stove (and I remember) I'll snap a picture and look it up again.
95
HeatMaster / In-Depth Review
« on: May 15, 2015, 05:18:58 AM »
Hey folks! Sorry if you're getting tired of my voice! Last year when I posted the video of my setup, I got some feedback that I didn't talk about the stove. So, here is my actual review of the stove itself. I doubt I covered everything, but here you go.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=80Q5Ebp6F80
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=80Q5Ebp6F80
96
HeatMaster / Re: Sweating stove
« on: May 14, 2015, 09:03:55 AM »
This is an "issue" that I believe HM has remedied. The flanges for the door and ash pan stick out so far from the stove that it's bound to condense. The "C" models have reduced this flange to the minimum amount necessary to hold the hinges and door latches, I've been told. I use air quotes for "issue" because I don't really see it as an issue. The only moisture I get is in the very front of the ash pan, hardly a critical component of the stove. It may shorten the lifespan of the rope gasket, but that's not a big deal. Some things make it better, some done. Just like you found. However, I believe that all stoves condense and drip at the door. Every time I load I scrape off the flange and move on.
I discuss this very issue in my in-depth review video that I haven't uploaded yet.
I discuss this very issue in my in-depth review video that I haven't uploaded yet.
97
HeatMaster / Re: Heatmaster Cleanout Procedure
« on: May 14, 2015, 08:58:38 AM »
Ok, I see what you guys are saying. Slim is right. Although I've never done it, there are brackets in the roof of the firebox that should loosen and spin to let that first sem-circle trough come off. I've never had the need because I can reach the back with my tool without wedging against the door frame.
Mr. Dan76, yeah, I'm sure that works. Our air channels may be different in the back, but it'd be really hard for me to reach down trough the grates, over the angled deflector and into the bottom bend of my air channel. I find it easier just to pull the back air channel off and vac from there. As far as the back of the ash pan, you're right. I guess it would be pretty simple to vac the ash pan from above.
Mr. Dan76, yeah, I'm sure that works. Our air channels may be different in the back, but it'd be really hard for me to reach down trough the grates, over the angled deflector and into the bottom bend of my air channel. I find it easier just to pull the back air channel off and vac from there. As far as the back of the ash pan, you're right. I guess it would be pretty simple to vac the ash pan from above.
98
HeatMaster / Re: Heatmaster Cleanout Procedure
« on: May 14, 2015, 05:20:55 AM »
That's interesting Mr. Suzukidad. I figured all the upper chambers were about the same size across the different HM stoves. I guess not! Is the tool too tall or too wide? My cleanout tool is too wide for my ash pan which I always found frustrating. Why didn't HM make the tool to fit the ash pan? If your tool is too wide for your upper chamber, you could always clip the edges off. Or, just use a garden hoe. That's what I use in my ash pan chamber. I've seen several home made tools over the last few years. Many have been pretty ingenious and work great!!
99
HeatMaster / Heatmaster Cleanout Procedure
« on: May 04, 2015, 06:37:47 AM »
Hey guys. I got another video made for my cleanout procedure. The one thing I didn't mention was your water. Leave the water alone. The Heatmaster manual says to bring your stove up to temp and let it run for up to 48 hours before collecting your sample. So, I wait until startup to top off my water. If you add water at shutodwn, you have to send in a sample. You can apply these practices to any stove. There are, however, several items specifically for Heatmaster stoves.
https://youtu.be/nS_gXEpW--E
https://youtu.be/nS_gXEpW--E
100
HeatMaster / Re: c375 info needed
« on: April 27, 2015, 07:06:30 AM »
You can PM Scott7m. He ran a smaller "C" series. Slim can tell you about their features.
101
HeatMaster / Re: heatmaster 10,000
« on: April 27, 2015, 06:49:38 AM »
I've not had any issues with my 10k. I just wrapped up my second burn season. I'm running two pumps and I have my demand split as close to even as possible. I've never put a clock on my burn cycles, but they seem to be pretty long. I'm sized so that even when we were at -10, I still could get 12 hours of burn time on less than 1 crammed full load. The water volume is large enough to really store plenty of BTU's for my demand.
With respect to the smoke burning twice, Yoder is right. But, I think what you were actually referring to is there is an additional smoke by-pass in the upper exchanger. The "E" series has 3 passes and the "C" series has 4. In the "E" series, the smoke is forced to the front, then to the back, then to the front and out. In the "C" series, the last pass before the chimney is divided in half length-wise, and the smoke goes to the back again before exiting the chimney.
The 10k is a HUGE stove. I've seen the 5k before, and it's really on a different scale as to how big the 10k is. I've never actually seen the "C" series yet, but the improvements I've read about are just what the "E" series needed. The oblong firebox is a great idea, as far as function goes. If they got that shape without additional welds, then it's perfect. I always seem to have a few pieces of unburnt wodd along the edges. The oblong shape would allow those pieces to be burnt more easily.
With respect to the smoke burning twice, Yoder is right. But, I think what you were actually referring to is there is an additional smoke by-pass in the upper exchanger. The "E" series has 3 passes and the "C" series has 4. In the "E" series, the smoke is forced to the front, then to the back, then to the front and out. In the "C" series, the last pass before the chimney is divided in half length-wise, and the smoke goes to the back again before exiting the chimney.
The 10k is a HUGE stove. I've seen the 5k before, and it's really on a different scale as to how big the 10k is. I've never actually seen the "C" series yet, but the improvements I've read about are just what the "E" series needed. The oblong firebox is a great idea, as far as function goes. If they got that shape without additional welds, then it's perfect. I always seem to have a few pieces of unburnt wodd along the edges. The oblong shape would allow those pieces to be burnt more easily.
102
HeatMaster / Re: heatmaster 10,000
« on: April 26, 2015, 06:57:18 AM »
I wouldn't be afraid of the C series. They've made some really good upgrades, but left the brains of the stove alone. I would've probably gotten one if they were available when I got my 10k.
103
HeatMaster / Re: heatmaster 10,000
« on: April 25, 2015, 04:15:39 PM »
Yeah, I'm at 3,800 including the garage. But, I also heat my hot tub and domestic water and my upstairs insulation is abismal. I'm in Indiana, you're in Canada. You'll be just fine with the 10k. I've never had any creosote issues from idling too long either.
104
Pools & Hot Tubs / Re: Pool Setups
« on: April 20, 2015, 04:22:32 PM »
You'll probably want a mixing valve before your return line goes back to your stove. Or, you can undersize your exchange tube. Do you have your wet well and three way valve already?
105
HeatMaster / Re: Shutting Down for Season
« on: April 06, 2015, 08:36:41 PM »
Several good tips in this post: http://outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com/forum/index.php?topic=7453.0