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91
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Differentials
« on: November 18, 2014, 06:39:55 PM »
190 +/- 10. Only running shop now, but it works well. House should be online in a few weeks...
92
Portage & Main / Re: Blog: Sloppy's P&M Ultimizer BL 34-44 Installation Thread
« on: November 12, 2014, 08:12:03 PM »
To keep from possibly cutting the Logstor, I took a piece of 1/4" gas line, slit the length with a utility blade and slid over the sharp edge. Works / looks good....
93
Portage & Main / Re: Need Help - New Owner
« on: November 12, 2014, 07:55:15 PM »
Maxnchej. I put 1/2 the amount of treatment in when I filled. The sample will go in the mail tomorrow. Forgot today. Monday was Veterans Day. My reason for the extra section of pipe is this.... My 2840 sets ~ 4' beside my shop. When the wind comes over the roof, it drops and swirls. I think if the smoke exits higher, it will be taken over the hill and away from me and the shop. It's worth it to me to try. If I don't locate a section of the Security pipe locally, I am ordering from PM tomorrow. One thing I've learned is that loading while it's calling for heat and there is a fire in the hole, there is almost no smoke. Get your pieces ready, open, stoke, load, and shut the door. Today is Nov.12. In four days, my ash pan is about 1/3 full. I think that is pretty amazing. Burning a lot of scrap pieces now to get rid of some laps. I too have noticed ash pan door condensation to the point of dripping out the door when it is closed. I have placed a 1/2 full 14" x 16" x 4" pan of water to catch the dippings at the ash pan door and out the back of the stack. This is only to keep my new concrete pad from staining.
94
Portage & Main / Re: BL 2840 - NorthWest Maine
« on: November 10, 2014, 08:49:30 PM »
2840 fired up on the 8th of November, 2014. I too am looking to buy another section of pipe. Here is the info from the box that came with the OWB. I could not find online. Anyone ? What is the simplest way to post a pic? I have several of my install, but they are too large. Keeps telling me to contact an administator....
6L36-CB2 LENGTH ASHT+6"X 36" CB
Securite' Fabrication Syndicate
Made in Canada
6L36-CB2 LENGTH ASHT+6"X 36" CB
Securite' Fabrication Syndicate
Made in Canada
95
Portage & Main / Re: Need Help - New Owner
« on: November 10, 2014, 08:39:46 PM »
Maxnchej,
I am also a new 2840 owner. Fired mine for the first time the same day you did, November 8, 2014. Very please with how quickly the fire took and how little smoke it produces. Started with a small torch, shut the door and within minutes, FIRE. I also get smoke out of the door. Depending on the wind and the time I load, the smoke does vary from heavy to very little. Like oaky said, load quickly to minimize smoldering smoke... Be cautious. If you load just after the blower shuts off, read the caution sticker on the door. It will re-ignite and FLASH. I have mine set at 190 +/- 10. I like to run mine hot. Just under steam temperature of 200-205 degrees. It has not gotten above 194. Let it do what it gets paid to do... I made the same mistake you did. I filled the water jacket to full when it was cold. The stove got hot, water expanded, and it had to go somewhere. I've made a mental note to myself to check water level only when hot. After it reached 190F, the guage leveled out just below the full mark. I also think I am going to buy another section of stove pipe to get it up a little higher. Mine sets just beside my shop and I think if the exhaust was up a little higher, it may pull a draft through the front door and reduce / eliminate smokin' out the front. Does either of you have a pipe cap on your stove pipe? I'm not sure if we should even worry about having one on the pipe. Just asking... It's not cold here yet, but I believe I'll be getting what oaky mentioned tomorrow or Wednesday. Looking forward to some cold days in Kentucky (never thought I would be saying that...)
Send me your contact info and I can share some pics of my install. I've not yet figured out how to attach even the smallest file. It tells me the file is too large and to contact an administrator.
I am also a new 2840 owner. Fired mine for the first time the same day you did, November 8, 2014. Very please with how quickly the fire took and how little smoke it produces. Started with a small torch, shut the door and within minutes, FIRE. I also get smoke out of the door. Depending on the wind and the time I load, the smoke does vary from heavy to very little. Like oaky said, load quickly to minimize smoldering smoke... Be cautious. If you load just after the blower shuts off, read the caution sticker on the door. It will re-ignite and FLASH. I have mine set at 190 +/- 10. I like to run mine hot. Just under steam temperature of 200-205 degrees. It has not gotten above 194. Let it do what it gets paid to do... I made the same mistake you did. I filled the water jacket to full when it was cold. The stove got hot, water expanded, and it had to go somewhere. I've made a mental note to myself to check water level only when hot. After it reached 190F, the guage leveled out just below the full mark. I also think I am going to buy another section of stove pipe to get it up a little higher. Mine sets just beside my shop and I think if the exhaust was up a little higher, it may pull a draft through the front door and reduce / eliminate smokin' out the front. Does either of you have a pipe cap on your stove pipe? I'm not sure if we should even worry about having one on the pipe. Just asking... It's not cold here yet, but I believe I'll be getting what oaky mentioned tomorrow or Wednesday. Looking forward to some cold days in Kentucky (never thought I would be saying that...)
Send me your contact info and I can share some pics of my install. I've not yet figured out how to attach even the smallest file. It tells me the file is too large and to contact an administrator.
96
HeatMaster / Re: What a night!
« on: November 10, 2014, 06:10:49 AM »
My 2840 is 160' from the house. Is this too far to receive a signal?
97
RidgeWood Stoves, defunct, support only / Re: Ridgewood upgrade
« on: November 06, 2014, 07:14:52 PM »
I've seen a lot of stacks with and without caps. What does P&M recommend ? Cap or not. My thought would be to install a stainless cap on my 2840....
98
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Start up observations
« on: November 02, 2014, 03:52:02 AM »
I'm still a few weeks from the first fire in my 2840. I guess mine will condensate as well. Where exactly will the condensation exit? Also, I've noticed pics of several OWB and they do not have rain caps on the stack. Why not, and would there be any advantage to using one ? What does everyone use for thread sealant? I've always used Teflon tape w/pipe dope. However, anything I've worked on has not been this hot. Thanks.
99
Portage & Main / Re: BL 2840 install questions
« on: October 30, 2014, 03:19:05 AM »
I was thinking of putting a thermostatic valve on the radiator but I am open to any suggestions.
100
Portage & Main / Re: BL 2840 install questions
« on: October 28, 2014, 09:14:25 PM »
I was looking at pumps and sizing my install. I contacted a person who sizes hydronic pumps for a living. Sells Armstrong pumps... I was not as specific on the phone as below, but roughly he said I would need a pump rated at 10 gpm and 15' head. The Taco Bumble be is rated at 15/15 respectively. I am going to plumb my shop on the other side of my 2840 and no Slim, I am not going to reduce the main loop to 1/2". Had a senior moment. Thanks for the reply. I would like to get some of your professional and field proven opinions and recommendations for the configuration below. There is no drawing, but I think it is explained as it will be routed in the house. I like Taco due to the Bumblebee's DeltaT design. I like the idea of a product that monitors the system for you and adjusts itself to optimize your system.
Main line from OWB to house is 150’ ( 300’ total - supply and return combined ) of 1” I.D. pex buried ~ 3 ft. deep.
As soon as I enter the house I will hit a sidearm or a 20 plate (not sure which one yet...).
My main circulating pump will be just as I enter the house and will be before the DHW sidearm or plate exchanger.
Out of the sidearm to the purchased manifold (not yet chosen) then on to my main cast iron radiator. This radiator is approximately 4’ wide, 10” deep and 30 inches tall and is 10 to 12’ higher than the OWB.
From the radiator then starts the return line back to the OWB. Somewhere close proximity to the DWH will be the manifolds which will support 3 zones.
Zone one will heat my laundry and bathroom. Both have tile floor and will require approximately 300’ of 1/2” pex. Only one loop back to manifold.
Zone two will heat a room just off the kitchen. This room is carpeted and will require approx. 330’ of 1/2” pex. Only one loop back to manifold.
Zone three will heat my kitchen / dining / and foyer. This is the largest zone and requires approximately 530’ of 1/2” pex. This zone will have two loops - 265' each.
Pipe size breakdown:
All radiant floor heat will be 1/2” pex.
The line to the main radiator in the foyer will be 3/4” pex.
All other main supply and return manifold mains will be 1” copper.
If I go with a sidearm, I have enough copper to build one. The 40" tall 2" x 1.25" sidearm will have a #10 gauge copper wire coiled sweated onto the 1.25" pipe. Any input is appreciated....
Main line from OWB to house is 150’ ( 300’ total - supply and return combined ) of 1” I.D. pex buried ~ 3 ft. deep.
As soon as I enter the house I will hit a sidearm or a 20 plate (not sure which one yet...).
My main circulating pump will be just as I enter the house and will be before the DHW sidearm or plate exchanger.
Out of the sidearm to the purchased manifold (not yet chosen) then on to my main cast iron radiator. This radiator is approximately 4’ wide, 10” deep and 30 inches tall and is 10 to 12’ higher than the OWB.
From the radiator then starts the return line back to the OWB. Somewhere close proximity to the DWH will be the manifolds which will support 3 zones.
Zone one will heat my laundry and bathroom. Both have tile floor and will require approximately 300’ of 1/2” pex. Only one loop back to manifold.
Zone two will heat a room just off the kitchen. This room is carpeted and will require approx. 330’ of 1/2” pex. Only one loop back to manifold.
Zone three will heat my kitchen / dining / and foyer. This is the largest zone and requires approximately 530’ of 1/2” pex. This zone will have two loops - 265' each.
Pipe size breakdown:
All radiant floor heat will be 1/2” pex.
The line to the main radiator in the foyer will be 3/4” pex.
All other main supply and return manifold mains will be 1” copper.
If I go with a sidearm, I have enough copper to build one. The 40" tall 2" x 1.25" sidearm will have a #10 gauge copper wire coiled sweated onto the 1.25" pipe. Any input is appreciated....
101
Portage & Main / BL 2840 install questions
« on: October 26, 2014, 09:08:38 AM »
Got the BL set and in place. Electric done. Getting ready to enter the house and have plenty of pipe to enter at any height. I could not go under the footer due to a LARGE rock. My question is ..... will the Logstor pex bend enough that I could make the desired long sweep 90 ?
If not, I'll use the supplied Logstor adapters and bend me a soft copper 90 as I have not found a refrigerant 90 that, in my opinion, is a true long sweep 90. Also, my shop fan coil is plumbed with 1/2" copper. Would it be best to just reduce to 1/2" when I enter the building or should I go for a ways w/ 3/4 copper then to the 1/2" at the fan coil. I also have been given an Armstrong Model 180200-660 ArmFlo E9B. I believe it is rated at ~ 35 fpm. My question is would it hurt anything to use this in my shop as I can reduce the flow with a valve on the fan coil ? Again, it was gave to me.... Looking to start my radiant floor heat next week. Going to use 1/2" pex with Ultra Fin. I've seen where this has been ran perpendicular with the floor joist. If I do run parallel with the joist can one get by with only running one pass then on to the next joist. Would two passes with Ultra Fin be overkill, or would even using only pex w/ the "loop" in each joist or two runs be sufficient. Thanks for any replies. Uponthehill ....
If not, I'll use the supplied Logstor adapters and bend me a soft copper 90 as I have not found a refrigerant 90 that, in my opinion, is a true long sweep 90. Also, my shop fan coil is plumbed with 1/2" copper. Would it be best to just reduce to 1/2" when I enter the building or should I go for a ways w/ 3/4 copper then to the 1/2" at the fan coil. I also have been given an Armstrong Model 180200-660 ArmFlo E9B. I believe it is rated at ~ 35 fpm. My question is would it hurt anything to use this in my shop as I can reduce the flow with a valve on the fan coil ? Again, it was gave to me.... Looking to start my radiant floor heat next week. Going to use 1/2" pex with Ultra Fin. I've seen where this has been ran perpendicular with the floor joist. If I do run parallel with the joist can one get by with only running one pass then on to the next joist. Would two passes with Ultra Fin be overkill, or would even using only pex w/ the "loop" in each joist or two runs be sufficient. Thanks for any replies. Uponthehill ....
102
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Portage and Main owners
« on: October 22, 2014, 08:44:43 PM »
I have researched OWB for ~ 3 years now. I have visited all OWB suppliers at the National Farm Machinery show in Louisville, KY every year. This year, after hearing about the government getting involved I decided this was the year to purchase. The decision to purchase was tough. However, the brand was not. The 2840 that has recently found it's new home (new concrete pad) looks awesome. I have gotten more comments than space available to post. My brand had already been decided, but not guaranteed... price affected. The main reason for choosing the 2840 was my many discussions with Brian and Rory. Not until later discussions did I have the chance to meet you Slim. I'm sure you remember your Kentucky visit to my place, but that visit is what solidified my choice. How many reps would drive a couple hours out of their way - back from a Florida install - to "visit" and talk wood boilers. I remember one comment you made was that you just wanted more people to burn wood. I would agree 100%. What a great renewable resource we have the freedom to utilize. If any of the P&M representative besides you are reading this, including Brian or Rory, please take note.... In a few weeks count how many units Slim has had a direct impact on the MANY choices of wood boiler manufacturers out there. Believe me, there are two dealers (all very eager to help) within 30 minutes of me and I bought one manufactured in Canada ! People around here are talking. I have visited several recent installs VERY close to my place (damn near walking distance) and your product AND service (Slim) gets promoted every time. In my opinion, a superior piece of equipment in look, design, and craftsmanship. As we all know, Slim is an asset to P&M and to the industry. Is P&M coming to the GIE show in Louisville this weekend ? If not, I think you should plan on it at future events. Keep up the good work and look for my posts in the near future. Again, thanks to you and Danny for the earlier visit. It is much appreciated....
103
Plumbing / Re: Optimizing a side arm
« on: October 13, 2014, 08:01:10 PM »
Thank you free heat. I'll do a little more research to decide which way to do mine.
104
Plumbing / Re: Optimizing a side arm
« on: October 12, 2014, 05:48:36 AM »
Anybody ? I'm going with 2" x 1 1/4" x 3/4 T's. The way I understand is to hit the DWH first @ the bottom of DWH, flowing upwards to the remaining loops then returning to the boiler. Is this correct?
105
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Best Source For Water To Fill OWB?
« on: October 07, 2014, 04:29:06 AM »
I just installed my Logstor yesterday for my 2840. I'm probably two weeks away for filling mine. My well water has a lot of iron and I also have a softener. We don't even drink the water due to the iron taste and if the softener malfunctions, the calcium buildup doesn't take long. Due to the small traces of sodium, I am going to use soft water to fill and plumb for makeup water. Does anyone use antifreeze ? If so, how much. I think my owner manual says 30% but that seems like a lot.