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91
Fire Wood / Re: Whats properly seasoned wood?
« on: February 11, 2016, 08:30:56 PM »
This is the time of year when I usually get a load of logs - 9 full chords. They come out of the bush nice and clean. Trouble is I have enough on hand for next year and even some for the year after. It's a high quality problem, so I am on the fence. (Although our wood piles will be dropping this weekend - LOL)
92
Fire Wood / Re: Whats properly seasoned wood?
« on: February 11, 2016, 08:15:12 AM »
I got a load of logs Jan 2015 - mainly hard maple. I blocked/split them and put them in a huge outdoor pile in October 2015. They are noticeably greener and heavier than the split wood that has been in my wood shed since last spring. So I would say you are getting the equivalent of unseasoned wood.
93
Equipment / Re: Ayuh,... I started the build,....
« on: February 03, 2016, 07:26:07 AM »
Looks pretty slick, good luck with the build. Let us know how you made out when it's done.
94
Equipment / Re: Added a table for the splitter.
« on: February 03, 2016, 07:24:19 AM »
Before I built my splitter, I went onto You Tube to get ideas for the design. i was struck by the number of people who did not have any tables and were constantly picking up pieces from the ground to re-split. I built mine with a side lift which doubles as a support table and a 36 x 30 out feed table. Every once in a while, especially for larger pieces, I wish I had a bit more table. Oh well....maybe build 2.0
95
Home Made / Re: Chimney help
« on: December 18, 2015, 04:56:50 AM »It’s not cheap but get yourself an actual UL approved double walled insulated pipe and the proper thimble to go thru the roof.
This is what I did and it works great.
96
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Door gasket
« on: December 09, 2015, 04:55:23 PM »
For the first few years I found the rope held out well but the contact type glue that comes with it would not last. Now I am another convert to the silicone/rope pairing. Standing up well so far.
97
Equipment / Re: Electric chain sharpener
« on: November 28, 2015, 10:15:03 AM »
I had an Oregon dremel style sharpener. The type whose power leads clipped to a 12 volt battery. After a couple years the thing self destructed for no good reason. I checked the original packaging and it was.....made in China.
98
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: what do you look for in a water to air Heat Exchanger?
« on: November 24, 2015, 07:20:50 PM »
I can also vouch for he Anderson heat exchanger. I bought a 16 x 18 rated around 130,000 BTU/Hr. I can't say if I get this output or not, but, for the last 6 winters, it has heated our mid sized old farmhouse in central Ontario without any problem. The last couple winters were pretty brutal too.
99
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Central boiler solenoid problems
« on: November 22, 2015, 07:49:29 AM »
Do you have an electrical supply near by? They should have different styles, just make sure the voltage and amperage are correct. They may even do an ohm check (using a multi-tester) on the old fuse. Zero resistance = good fuse and Infinite resistance = blown fuse.
100
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Benefit
« on: November 21, 2015, 08:37:26 AM »
To me, higher temps is a trade off. Heat flows with temp difference, so it will help your coils work better but you will be prone to a bit more loss in underground pipes and boiler skin.
Good points about oxygen solubility and temp and I am glad to see the graph posted. I have occasionally seen it posted that keeping water above 180 eliminated oxygen. The graph and article shows that this is not the case.
Just want to add a couple points - while there is less ability to hold oxygen at higher temps, it does tend to be more reactive. It is also hard to remove oxygen from a water system - temp alone won't do it. As was pointed out in the article, industry uses an elaborate pre-boiler device called a deaerator. It's a thermo/mechanical pressure vessel to physically remove oxygen. Even then it is critical to treat water with chemical oxygen scavengers. So the take away is make sure you use a quality water treatment to counteract oxygen, which leads to rust/corrosion and metal wasting.
Good points about oxygen solubility and temp and I am glad to see the graph posted. I have occasionally seen it posted that keeping water above 180 eliminated oxygen. The graph and article shows that this is not the case.
Just want to add a couple points - while there is less ability to hold oxygen at higher temps, it does tend to be more reactive. It is also hard to remove oxygen from a water system - temp alone won't do it. As was pointed out in the article, industry uses an elaborate pre-boiler device called a deaerator. It's a thermo/mechanical pressure vessel to physically remove oxygen. Even then it is critical to treat water with chemical oxygen scavengers. So the take away is make sure you use a quality water treatment to counteract oxygen, which leads to rust/corrosion and metal wasting.
101
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: garage temp
« on: November 21, 2015, 07:58:41 AM »
In the pre boiler days, my detached garage (aka the shop) would range between 24 to 34 F depending on the outside temp. Now, with a F.A. exchanger sitting in one corner, it ranges between 34 to 40 just from heat radiating from the HX. When I am doing stuff in there, I crank it up to 60 ish and the fan comes on to provide extra heating. I think because it is fairly dry in there, it seems warmer than it really is.
102
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Replacing the bottom of my 290. Rotted out!!
« on: November 07, 2015, 07:20:20 AM »
Nice shop Powerstroke. I am sure that the repair will be way better than the original. Its hard to know why some units rot out so quickly and others seem to last forever - maybe faulty materials, faulty welds, faulty design/construction. Having my loading door too low is one of the tweaks I will also do if and when a rebuild ever occurs.
103
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: 4400 WATER OUT OF THE FILL TUBE
« on: October 16, 2015, 05:52:54 PM »
Agreed, sounds like water expansion. Mine spit out the vent on start up this year.
104
Plumbing / Re: How much head to calculate
« on: October 11, 2015, 05:53:13 AM »
Any suction head would be lost as discharge head. The two cancel out each other in a recirculating system. Figure out head loss from pipe length, fittings etc.
This may help as a rough guide;
http://www.taco-hvac.com/uploads/FileLibrary/SelectingCirculators.pdf
This may help as a rough guide;
http://www.taco-hvac.com/uploads/FileLibrary/SelectingCirculators.pdf
105
Plumbing / Re: 1 inch pex 3 way zone valve
« on: October 05, 2015, 08:41:05 PM »No expert but think you would have to stick with your existing voltage.
Another one, pricier though.
http://www.supplyhouse.com/Taco-V100T3G1ZA024Q4A1-1-3-Way-Geo-Sentry-GeoThermal-Zone-Valve-Threaded-Normally-Closed