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Central Boiler / Re: CB 1400E Setting
« on: March 15, 2012, 07:44:26 PM »
I had the same issue with my E1400, the fire could go out, even using dry hard wood.
I found in my case decreasing the pulse time (think it's now at 22 mins) fixed it, and I also decreased the pulse duration (30 seconds now I think) so I compensated somewhat for extra wood burn.
The main factor that drove pulse time was when the boiler had a full load and hit the set point. I really don't find a 1/4 full boiler goes out using factory settings.
I found in my case decreasing the pulse time (think it's now at 22 mins) fixed it, and I also decreased the pulse duration (30 seconds now I think) so I compensated somewhat for extra wood burn.
The main factor that drove pulse time was when the boiler had a full load and hit the set point. I really don't find a 1/4 full boiler goes out using factory settings.
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Central Boiler / Re: recovery time
« on: March 15, 2012, 07:34:49 PM »
I'm running an E-classic and have noticed the same effect.
Once, I was bad like you and let it burn down too far and the fire went out when I reloaded and I had to yank all that wood out. I got it going again, then threw all that wood back in. However, the wood was still quite warm. That time the recovery time wasn't so slow, and I learned that throwing a bunch of large very cold objects into the burner makes it take longer to get hot again. Better to go 1/4 load and come back.
Once, I was bad like you and let it burn down too far and the fire went out when I reloaded and I had to yank all that wood out. I got it going again, then threw all that wood back in. However, the wood was still quite warm. That time the recovery time wasn't so slow, and I learned that throwing a bunch of large very cold objects into the burner makes it take longer to get hot again. Better to go 1/4 load and come back.
3
Central Boiler / Re: Lower water temp
« on: March 15, 2012, 07:26:21 PM »
There is some nice info here on the set points for the thermo valve, and I wish I had seen it during our 'initiation' (first year with the boiler). We were told we could get a longer warranty if we installed our thermo valve, so of course we did, and were told it was set at 150. I've noticed we get very little flow until the outdoor reading is at least 161. That became a concern for a while. Makes sense it starts to scale back at 170, and is mostly closed at 150; that matches what I have witnessed.
To the topic at hand, I've tried the lower water temp settings. I'm a geek, if it's computerized, I'll get into settings.
I find lower temp helps on marginal heating days. Less wood consumed, and a better match for the heat needed. In other words, if it's 50 and sunny or 60 and cloudy, 170 is a good setting. My heat is distributed old-school style in the house, using hot water (via heat exchanger), and there's a delay between the heat delivered to the radiators and when the indoor thermostat trips. That's why adjusting the set point helps, less of a heat slam during low heat needs. I doubt it helps if you use forced air, and may even create more trouble than it is worth.
Below 32 degrees outside, I run the factory default 185.
To the topic at hand, I've tried the lower water temp settings. I'm a geek, if it's computerized, I'll get into settings.
I find lower temp helps on marginal heating days. Less wood consumed, and a better match for the heat needed. In other words, if it's 50 and sunny or 60 and cloudy, 170 is a good setting. My heat is distributed old-school style in the house, using hot water (via heat exchanger), and there's a delay between the heat delivered to the radiators and when the indoor thermostat trips. That's why adjusting the set point helps, less of a heat slam during low heat needs. I doubt it helps if you use forced air, and may even create more trouble than it is worth.
Below 32 degrees outside, I run the factory default 185.
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