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Plumbing / Re: Issues with water temperature
« on: February 18, 2015, 08:03:03 PM »
I don't have issues with algae. What I have is hardened mineral deposits inside my pex fittings and heat exchangers. I completely agree that this is affecting my water flow. I am now convinced that this is my entire problem. My system had been working fine for the past 3 years. I only noticed it struggling when the temperatures dropped this winter.
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Plumbing / Re: Issues with water temperature
« on: February 18, 2015, 02:50:56 PM »
I have never tested my water. I just use the chemical rust inhibitor. I was under the impression that this is all I needed to do.
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Plumbing / Re: Issues with water temperature
« on: February 18, 2015, 10:45:54 AM »
Thanks again for all the help with this. I will give the coil cleaner a try. I will repout the results.
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Plumbing / Re: Issues with water temperature
« on: February 17, 2015, 03:53:16 PM »
Unfortunately mine are not plumbed to clean without removal. It won't be too difficult to remove because it is all pex and easy to access. I will have to find some of the coil cleaner. Any idea where to get the coil cleaner?
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Plumbing / Re: Issues with water temperature
« on: February 17, 2015, 03:27:21 PM »
Well I went ahead and plumbed with a mono flow tee. It is all done in pex so it didn't take too long. In response to the last post, I think you may be right. Although after plumbing with the mono flow tee, I got an additional 10 to 15 degrees water temp at 165 now. I noticed some build up in the pex fittings. Pretty bad stuff. I don't know what else to do to treat that. I will probably have to buy a new heat exchanger. I treat my furnace twice a year as recommended with the manufacturers chemical. I got 3 years out of this exchanger. I think this is where my problem is. Is there any way to clean an exchanger?
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Plumbing / Re: Issues with water temperature
« on: February 17, 2015, 08:07:04 AM »
Will one mono flow tee be sufficient? If just one, how far from the other "Tee" do I place this?
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Plumbing / Re: Issues with water temperature
« on: February 17, 2015, 07:29:55 AM »
I didn't see the mono flow Tee response when I typed my last response. That might be a much easier solution if you think that option works.
This may be a dumb question but when my supply water from the furnace goes through the heat exchanger, should the closed loop water being heated come out at the same temperature as the supply water in? Or is there an expectation that it will be lower?
This may be a dumb question but when my supply water from the furnace goes through the heat exchanger, should the closed loop water being heated come out at the same temperature as the supply water in? Or is there an expectation that it will be lower?
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Plumbing / Re: Issues with water temperature
« on: February 17, 2015, 07:24:15 AM »
Hey guys thank you all for your responses. I am trying to understand the different approaches. I am trying to figure out what is the best option. In my current set up, I bypass the hot water tank completely. I turn off the water to and from it and turn off the breaker.
If I install the secondary 007 pump, I would only have just a few feet of circulating water in order in and out of the supply loop. I would have to have it run constantly. Does that sound right? I can post a picture of my current set up if needed.
If I install the secondary 007 pump, I would only have just a few feet of circulating water in order in and out of the supply loop. I would have to have it run constantly. Does that sound right? I can post a picture of my current set up if needed.
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Plumbing / Re: Issues with water temperature
« on: February 17, 2015, 06:39:00 AM »
There in lies the problem. I only have one line in and out to the furnace and it is 4 feet underground. Would buying a larger domestic heat exchanger increase the flow? Would upsizing my pump be an option?
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Plumbing / Issues with water temperature
« on: February 17, 2015, 06:31:41 AM »
I have a continuous loop pumping from my furnace underground to my house. It goes through a 20 plate domestic heat exchanger then through a 40 plate heat exchanger for my base board. The water temp from the furnace when it enters my house is at 185. It appears that my water temp of my closed loop system is only reaching 150 at best when I need 180 after going through the exchanger. I just replaced a Taco 009 pump in this cold weather since the old pump was making noise. This has not fixed my problem. Any suggestions welcomed. As a side note, in past winters I have struggled on the coldest of days to get the base board up to temp through the exchanger. Really need to address this problem.
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Plumbing / Re: plumbing owb to existing baseboard heating
« on: July 04, 2012, 07:18:05 PM »
Thanks for the responses. I am planning on zoning with three speed grundfos pumps. Given my situation...how much pump head would i need for this application? Thanks again.
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Plumbing / plumbing owb to existing baseboard heating
« on: June 27, 2012, 07:39:02 PM »
I am new to the forum and like the information here. Thanks. This is my first post and I welcome any insight.
I am in the processof installing an owb. I have run my lines underground in a six inch pipe and insulated the lines. My house was heated with an old coal furnace which I removed. The system was pressurized but was dusty not to mention how many times I had to fix the fire each day. I am reworking the system and zoning with 4 zone pumps due to a remodel. I am wiring four zone pumps to an ARGO relay. I am building my own manifold for the pumps and plan to heat my domestic hot water. I intend on running a pump from the furnace 24/7 through a loop. I plan to use pumps with a flow check valve to pull the heat as needed when the zone calls for it and hoping this would help to eliminate heat going through a zone when it is not on. Here is where I need some insight. My highest baseboard run is higher than the furnace just under 15 feet. If I build the manifold correctly, I can force bleed the 4 zones to remove the air. However, can I leave the system unpressurized and will the system work or do I have to pressurize the system and keep the furnace loop separate because I have to circulate the water to a height higher than the furnace. If I have to pressurize the system, I will have to buy HX, expansion tank, fill valves, and air scoop. Kind of pricy stuff. I have read a little on this topic but I am not convinced that leaving it unpressurized will not work. Any insight is appreciated. Thanks.
I am in the processof installing an owb. I have run my lines underground in a six inch pipe and insulated the lines. My house was heated with an old coal furnace which I removed. The system was pressurized but was dusty not to mention how many times I had to fix the fire each day. I am reworking the system and zoning with 4 zone pumps due to a remodel. I am wiring four zone pumps to an ARGO relay. I am building my own manifold for the pumps and plan to heat my domestic hot water. I intend on running a pump from the furnace 24/7 through a loop. I plan to use pumps with a flow check valve to pull the heat as needed when the zone calls for it and hoping this would help to eliminate heat going through a zone when it is not on. Here is where I need some insight. My highest baseboard run is higher than the furnace just under 15 feet. If I build the manifold correctly, I can force bleed the 4 zones to remove the air. However, can I leave the system unpressurized and will the system work or do I have to pressurize the system and keep the furnace loop separate because I have to circulate the water to a height higher than the furnace. If I have to pressurize the system, I will have to buy HX, expansion tank, fill valves, and air scoop. Kind of pricy stuff. I have read a little on this topic but I am not convinced that leaving it unpressurized will not work. Any insight is appreciated. Thanks.
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