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Central Boiler / Re: CB 6048 Water temp way too low!
« on: December 30, 2014, 08:31:06 PM »
I put a fan on mine this year(5036) Its like a dif. bolier. I really like it
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Central Boiler / Re: Fire won't re-kindle very well
« on: December 02, 2014, 06:35:25 PM »
I have a 5036 and added a fan this year. WOW!!!!!! what a difference. I wish I had it since 09 when I put the boiler in.
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Central Boiler / Re: CB 5036 vs 6048
« on: March 19, 2014, 11:17:32 AM »
I have a 5036 but according to the cb chart I was borderline 6048. I didnt get it because it was $1800. extra.There are times it would have been nice (burn times) I get by with the 5036 since I work from home I am near it often so I just toss a few pieces in when needed.
I am heating a 2000 sf house (was all electric and well insulated) and a 44x48 well insulted shop. I keep the shop thermostat off when I am not in there and it stays around 50 if the temps dont go below 10-15 deg. I turn it up to 60 all day when I am working.
smoke all depends on the wood cond. your burning .burn dry wood and you get very little smoke
I am heating a 2000 sf house (was all electric and well insulated) and a 44x48 well insulted shop. I keep the shop thermostat off when I am not in there and it stays around 50 if the temps dont go below 10-15 deg. I turn it up to 60 all day when I am working.
smoke all depends on the wood cond. your burning .burn dry wood and you get very little smoke
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Central Boiler / Re: My 5036 appears to burning a lot of wood at night
« on: January 26, 2014, 10:47:16 AM »
Here is a thought to consider. I have been having trouble also and I think mine are more the thermostat (see other thread) but last couple days I have tried something. My 5036 faces south .we have had really cold single didget temps and high winds almost non stop. I started leaning the wheelbarrow standing up to shield the door and it seems to have helped a lot. I think its just pushing my heat right out the chimney.
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Central Boiler / Re: cental 5036 temp isues.
« on: January 25, 2014, 05:03:39 AM »
I called my local purchased from dealer several times yesterday and couldnt get a hold of him and his mailbox was full. This is the norm when you call him. I called next closest dealer which is about an hour away and he thought it was the controler also. He didnt think it was the probe. He said you use to get a probe with the controler but for some reason they quit packaging together.
He was willing to ship to me and got it on the way yesterday so I should have it monday.
I went ahead nd got a door seal although I think mine is still good.I asked about door blowers and he said they had them but I shouldnt need one as they dont sell many.On days when the sun comes out and temp gets up in the 40s-50s my burner doesnt run all day and then when it comes on its hard for it to take off. I go out later in the day and as soon as you open door and stir around it takes right off so my thoughts are some forced air may help.
on another note I put this in in 2009,we have had lots of 0 weather here in western pa and come to think of it I dont think we have had much since I installed the boiler. I have it going into my 32x48 well insulated shop nd my 2000 sf well insulated home. In the shop I turn the blower off at night and just the heat rising in the duct work will keep the shop in the 50s.
I am gonna swap out the controler and try that for a day and see what happens. I noticed last night when I opened the boiler door that the wind had the flames blowing so hard they were going right out under the baffle and up the chimney so I leaned the wheel barrel i front of the door and I had 168 temp this morning and some wood left. We have had high winds the last few days.
Thanks for the input guys.
He was willing to ship to me and got it on the way yesterday so I should have it monday.
I went ahead nd got a door seal although I think mine is still good.I asked about door blowers and he said they had them but I shouldnt need one as they dont sell many.On days when the sun comes out and temp gets up in the 40s-50s my burner doesnt run all day and then when it comes on its hard for it to take off. I go out later in the day and as soon as you open door and stir around it takes right off so my thoughts are some forced air may help.
on another note I put this in in 2009,we have had lots of 0 weather here in western pa and come to think of it I dont think we have had much since I installed the boiler. I have it going into my 32x48 well insulated shop nd my 2000 sf well insulated home. In the shop I turn the blower off at night and just the heat rising in the duct work will keep the shop in the 50s.
I am gonna swap out the controler and try that for a day and see what happens. I noticed last night when I opened the boiler door that the wind had the flames blowing so hard they were going right out under the baffle and up the chimney so I leaned the wheel barrel i front of the door and I had 168 temp this morning and some wood left. We have had high winds the last few days.
Thanks for the input guys.
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Central Boiler / cental 5036 temp isues.
« on: January 24, 2014, 09:26:52 AM »
Hello. needs some help with a 5036. when I fired up this fall the temp indicator was all out of wack for a couple days then it seemed to fix itself and I didnt follow up on it.
last few days I have had trouble keeping it up to temp and keeping the fire going. I walked up to it this morning and it said 199. high temp is set at 185. as soon as I opened the door temp dropped to 145 and flapper on door opened. Then it takes for ever to bring temp back up since its so cold out right now.
any ideas? real gauge on return line supports the 145 true temp.Thanks
last few days I have had trouble keeping it up to temp and keeping the fire going. I walked up to it this morning and it said 199. high temp is set at 185. as soon as I opened the door temp dropped to 145 and flapper on door opened. Then it takes for ever to bring temp back up since its so cold out right now.
any ideas? real gauge on return line supports the 145 true temp.Thanks
7
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Shop building HX & Fan
« on: December 05, 2012, 09:04:20 PM »
Dont use OSB ,if you ever have a fire it will go up quick. I did mine in dry wall board (not taped)back in the late 80s when I built it.never figured on finishing it.I ended up going over it with shiny white pole barn tin and then put the florecent lights right on the steel. all I can say is wow its really nice and doesn`t attract all the cob webs like the dry wall did.
steel wasnt that much and it goes up quick and is finished when done.I added a 24x32 addition on one end of the shop last year and did the hole inside in white steel.I don`t heat that part yet but its insulated in case I want to.
I have a pole barn that is 44x48 with 12ft ceiling with 12" of fiberglass. walls have 2" foam and then I framed it in with 2x6 and 6" fiberglass and finished drywall.
I could have built a block foundation and stick built walls for what I have in this I just never figured it would go this far nor did I have that kinda cash when I built it.
I had an oil furnace before so I added a 15x20" HX and shut off the oil. My pump runs 24/7 and the shop will stay at or near 60 as long as it doesn`t get below 30 or so at night.If I go out in the morning and turn on the thermostat the blower runs 10 minutes and gets the shop up to 63 and it will hold it a long time.
I have a 12x24 room on the one side that is my office/parts room and the furnace is in there ,it stays almost to hot in there.I have the pex run along the wall and up to the furnace and I had to insulate the pex to cut down on the heat.
I insulated this a little at a time as I had the cash and it was the best money I spent.I work out of my garage for my living and its nice being warm with out spending or burning a lot.
steel wasnt that much and it goes up quick and is finished when done.I added a 24x32 addition on one end of the shop last year and did the hole inside in white steel.I don`t heat that part yet but its insulated in case I want to.
I have a pole barn that is 44x48 with 12ft ceiling with 12" of fiberglass. walls have 2" foam and then I framed it in with 2x6 and 6" fiberglass and finished drywall.
I could have built a block foundation and stick built walls for what I have in this I just never figured it would go this far nor did I have that kinda cash when I built it.
I had an oil furnace before so I added a 15x20" HX and shut off the oil. My pump runs 24/7 and the shop will stay at or near 60 as long as it doesn`t get below 30 or so at night.If I go out in the morning and turn on the thermostat the blower runs 10 minutes and gets the shop up to 63 and it will hold it a long time.
I have a 12x24 room on the one side that is my office/parts room and the furnace is in there ,it stays almost to hot in there.I have the pex run along the wall and up to the furnace and I had to insulate the pex to cut down on the heat.
I insulated this a little at a time as I had the cash and it was the best money I spent.I work out of my garage for my living and its nice being warm with out spending or burning a lot.
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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Homemade insulated PEX
« on: October 19, 2012, 09:30:22 AM »
I tried saving $s when I bought mine and found stuff at an empyer dealer for $6.xx a ft vs. the $12. central wanted. He said they had great luck with it and had lots of it in stock.
It looks like what you have.It was wrapped several times with foam/foil and then put in drain pipe. I bought 130' which was close to $1000. with tax. vs $1600.
I rented a trencher for minimal yard damage vs. my bobcat excavator.put it down 2, and it was great for the first two years. I have the burner half way to my shop and then about 64' run to each building. on the 3rd year (last year) I couldn`t keep wood in it. tried a door gasket ans suspected ground water but wasn`t sure. one night my kids saw water coming in the basement.we had a real wet year last winter and I ended up digging the pipe up at the house and un hooking the house for the rest of the winter.
I just put in new thermo pex this week and should be all hooked up today and ready to re-fill. I will just say it was a lesson learned and the central boiler dealer got to say a well earned "I told ya so"
It looks like what you have.It was wrapped several times with foam/foil and then put in drain pipe. I bought 130' which was close to $1000. with tax. vs $1600.
I rented a trencher for minimal yard damage vs. my bobcat excavator.put it down 2, and it was great for the first two years. I have the burner half way to my shop and then about 64' run to each building. on the 3rd year (last year) I couldn`t keep wood in it. tried a door gasket ans suspected ground water but wasn`t sure. one night my kids saw water coming in the basement.we had a real wet year last winter and I ended up digging the pipe up at the house and un hooking the house for the rest of the winter.
I just put in new thermo pex this week and should be all hooked up today and ready to re-fill. I will just say it was a lesson learned and the central boiler dealer got to say a well earned "I told ya so"
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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Central Boiler 6048 Smoke
« on: October 19, 2012, 05:48:33 AM »
when you open the door just crack it a little nd keep your face back.hold it there 10-15 second and watch the stack,it will let air rush in and take the smoke out. when I say keep your face back it can sort of back draft and flame will come out the door right up in your face.
I can pretty much tell when I walk up to it if ths will happen by looking at whats coming from the stack ,seen it quite a few times as a fire fighter
I can pretty much tell when I walk up to it if ths will happen by looking at whats coming from the stack ,seen it quite a few times as a fire fighter
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