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Portage & Main / Sidearm - what am I missing?
« on: December 30, 2012, 07:11:33 PM »
Hey guys, I just joined a while ago seeking some help to get my new P & M to burn right after installation. Now that I have it burning right...I just finished installing a sidearm and it isn't working. Does anyone have pics of a working unit? Can anyone offer an explanation on how they work (convection or thermosiphion)? I'm not totally useless, but I'm also not experienced (at all!!) with plumbing, sidearms, etc. here is how I have been told to hook up, and so this is what I have done:
- hot water from OWB into bottom of sidearm (side exit)
- return to OWB out of top (side exit)
- drain at bottom of WH into bottom of sidearm (bottom - portable port of sidearm)
- pressure relief was removed from top of WH and that is now hot water (top - potable port of sidearm)
- pressure relief is now installed inline above this port
Any help is welcomed here guys. Don't be afraid to be blunt - I have big shoulders and all I care about is getting this system up and running!
Thanks in advance,
Kyle
- hot water from OWB into bottom of sidearm (side exit)
- return to OWB out of top (side exit)
- drain at bottom of WH into bottom of sidearm (bottom - portable port of sidearm)
- pressure relief was removed from top of WH and that is now hot water (top - potable port of sidearm)
- pressure relief is now installed inline above this port
Any help is welcomed here guys. Don't be afraid to be blunt - I have big shoulders and all I care about is getting this system up and running!
Thanks in advance,
Kyle
2
Portage & Main / Re: Having trouble burning brand new ML30
« on: November 19, 2012, 09:37:24 AM »
Thanks guys - i am going to call today for prices. i was told (informally) that i could pick up a side arm for $80 from a local guy made real well with the heavy copper inside etc. I was going to make my own as well but for that price i might as well buy!
I had issues on the weekend again with the fire. i cut a chunk of 3/4" cold rolled steel and layed it in place of one of the openings in the bottom to allow more of the ash/coals to remain in the burn pot. This seems to have helped out a lot. Once its coled and the fire is burning more often and for longer periods of time i plan on removing this.
I had issues on the weekend again with the fire. i cut a chunk of 3/4" cold rolled steel and layed it in place of one of the openings in the bottom to allow more of the ash/coals to remain in the burn pot. This seems to have helped out a lot. Once its coled and the fire is burning more often and for longer periods of time i plan on removing this.
3
Portage & Main / Re: Having trouble burning brand new ML30
« on: November 16, 2012, 08:05:38 AM »
Rick,
You are absolutely right! When I got home yesterday I still had some wood left in the stove (11hrs since fill up) and I had a significantly larger amount of coals then I have had since I first fired the unit. Last night I only threw in a couple of pieces just in case it went out on me again over night. This morning, no wood left, but I had many 'glowing coals'. I threw in a couple smaller pieces and when I got back to the stove from the wood pile with a couple of larger pieces, the smaller ones were already in full flame! I will continue to fine tune my set-up over the next while to achieve optimal burn and efficiency, but for now I am very happy. Thanks aging for all your help on this guys.
Next question!!! Whats better for domestic HW - plate heat ex-changer or sidearm and why?
You are absolutely right! When I got home yesterday I still had some wood left in the stove (11hrs since fill up) and I had a significantly larger amount of coals then I have had since I first fired the unit. Last night I only threw in a couple of pieces just in case it went out on me again over night. This morning, no wood left, but I had many 'glowing coals'. I threw in a couple smaller pieces and when I got back to the stove from the wood pile with a couple of larger pieces, the smaller ones were already in full flame! I will continue to fine tune my set-up over the next while to achieve optimal burn and efficiency, but for now I am very happy. Thanks aging for all your help on this guys.
Next question!!! Whats better for domestic HW - plate heat ex-changer or sidearm and why?
4
Portage & Main / Re: Having trouble burning brand new ML30
« on: November 15, 2012, 02:15:25 PM »
Trint,
With my current set-points (off at 188, on at 183) its only about 15-20min at night when its colder, and I'm not sure during the day when I'm at work? I was trying to keep the down time short to prevent the ambers from cooling off too much to re-ignite. I opened my fan right up last night before bed and it seemed to work better.
There is a ton of smoke that comes from the chimney between burns. If there is any air getting in (between burns), i would say very, very little. This stove seems like its sealed up very well.
I tried splitting some of my wood this morning before i left so i will see what happened today once i get home. None of my wood that i plan to burn is split. They are all pieces approximately 32-38 inches in length, and anywhere from 8-14 inches round. Both times that the stove went out on me I had 2 10 inch logs in there, and all the other stuff (smaller) burnt. I don't really know how much to load it up with yet because like i said its brand new to me and i really haven't had a full 24hr burn yet.
Really appreciate your suggestions guys. Thanks!
With my current set-points (off at 188, on at 183) its only about 15-20min at night when its colder, and I'm not sure during the day when I'm at work? I was trying to keep the down time short to prevent the ambers from cooling off too much to re-ignite. I opened my fan right up last night before bed and it seemed to work better.
There is a ton of smoke that comes from the chimney between burns. If there is any air getting in (between burns), i would say very, very little. This stove seems like its sealed up very well.
I tried splitting some of my wood this morning before i left so i will see what happened today once i get home. None of my wood that i plan to burn is split. They are all pieces approximately 32-38 inches in length, and anywhere from 8-14 inches round. Both times that the stove went out on me I had 2 10 inch logs in there, and all the other stuff (smaller) burnt. I don't really know how much to load it up with yet because like i said its brand new to me and i really haven't had a full 24hr burn yet.
Really appreciate your suggestions guys. Thanks!
5
Portage & Main / Re: Having trouble burning brand new ML30
« on: November 15, 2012, 11:02:26 AM »
I already tried that! That is actually when it went out the first time. I figured that when it cut out at 180, it must have taken a while to cool off to 160 and when it tried to fire back up no go. That's when I thought to try shorter burn but more often (small differential), and it seems a bit better but still not ideal. My wood is not ideal (moisture content), but i know guys that burn a lot worse. It had the summer and fall to dry.
Have you played with the manual damper on your door at all? How much is the cover on your fan open? Thanks for your reply.
Have you played with the manual damper on your door at all? How much is the cover on your fan open? Thanks for your reply.
6
Portage & Main / Having trouble burning brand new ML30
« on: November 15, 2012, 05:50:46 AM »
Hey guys, new here and new to OWB's. I just got my ML30 online 2 nights ago, and have had the fire go out twice since! Just looking for some advice from the pros, what has worked for you and what hasn't. I have no doubt that this stove is going to be awesome, I just need to figure out how to run it!
Specifics - 2800sqft house, (no hot water yet), 175' from stove to house, wood was cut late spring/early summer and is not as dry as I would like, OWB set point 188F, 5deg F differential, I'm in Ontario Canada and its fluctuating between 17deg F and 42 deg F throughout the day and night right now.
I can get the firing roaring and she burns good, the problem seems to be when I stoke it up before bed and when I leave in the morning. When the fan shuts down because it has reached set point, it never seems to spark back up that great when it reaches the differential. I attempt a 'criss-cross loading pattern to allow air under each piece. Should I be giving more air (at the fan), less air, burn colder, burn hotter??? What about the manual damper on the door - should it be cracked so the coals don't smolder out when the fan shuts off?
Any input is appreciated!
Kyle
Specifics - 2800sqft house, (no hot water yet), 175' from stove to house, wood was cut late spring/early summer and is not as dry as I would like, OWB set point 188F, 5deg F differential, I'm in Ontario Canada and its fluctuating between 17deg F and 42 deg F throughout the day and night right now.
I can get the firing roaring and she burns good, the problem seems to be when I stoke it up before bed and when I leave in the morning. When the fan shuts down because it has reached set point, it never seems to spark back up that great when it reaches the differential. I attempt a 'criss-cross loading pattern to allow air under each piece. Should I be giving more air (at the fan), less air, burn colder, burn hotter??? What about the manual damper on the door - should it be cracked so the coals don't smolder out when the fan shuts off?
Any input is appreciated!
Kyle
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