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1

Hardy / Re: H4 door way constantly cracking and leaking

« on: December 20, 2012, 04:37:48 AM »

Mine have has some build up too, but never had any blades break. Mine have just wore out, motors just quit.

2

Hardy / Re: H4 door way constantly cracking and leaking

« on: December 15, 2012, 11:28:44 AM »

Just got my current leak repaired this morning. I think this coming summer I am going to have the doorway " overhauled ".

3

Hardy / Re: WHERE TO OIL BLOWER MOTOR

« on: December 15, 2012, 11:13:36 AM »

 i will have to look that info up. The dealer I deal thru takes a magic marker and puts arrows on the motor to where the oil ports are.

4

Hardy / Re: I've been thinking...

« on: December 12, 2012, 04:57:49 PM »

The ONLY WAY I can see that stupid plate helping with efficency is the fact it does direct the flame to come up under the boiler on each side. BUT keep an eye on the stupid plate too. I had mine build up with so much ash laying on it that it actually restricted the chimney from being able to exhaust the smoke to the point I could hardly get the fire to burn.

5

Hardy / Re: Can I burn coal with OWB?

« on: December 12, 2012, 04:47:53 PM »

I grew up burning coal in a regular forced air furnace. I have never seen or heard of burning coal without having shaker grates. Reason I was told is because of the clinkers that build up on the grates. Also I was told to make sure you NEVER allow your ashes under the grates to build up tight to the grates, reason given, the grates will burn out or warp.  I dont miss burning coal, we didnt have a water softner only a large cistern and collected rain water for soft wash water. By mid winter all of our whites had a dull grey cast to them from all the soot. Even our white cats turned grey. The snow always was dirty with soot.

6

Hardy / Re: WHERE TO OIL BLOWER MOTOR

« on: December 12, 2012, 04:33:35 PM »

If your H2 is like my H4 and uses the same blower units, the oil ports are to the top and then slightly turned towards the furnace wall and can be kinda difficult to get to while the unit is attached to the furnace. I usually take my blower unit off and then you can find the ports and oil them much easier.

7

Hardy / Re: Question

« on: December 12, 2012, 04:28:17 PM »

I still have my propane fired boiler in the basement and have the Hardy plumbed into that system. I too have my propane boiler as a back-up. What I have found for my system is this, during the early and end of the normal heating seasons, my circulating pumps dont run continously bringing hot water into the house. That allows the water in the line from my boiler outside to the one inside to cool off. So when one of the pumps kicks in it will initially be bringing cooler water in than what my propane boiler's aquastat is set for and that boiler will fire to offset that water temperature difference. Once the water is hot coming in ( above 120 F )my propane boiler shuts down. During the colder months when my system is calling for hot water almost constantly and I have at least one pump circulating ( my house has 3 seperate heating zones/pumps ) my propane boiler never fires. I end using about 200 gals of propane a year.

You should have your oil fired boiler's aquastat set back to kick in at around 120F. If your Hardy is set to shut down at 180 like most are, you should be carrying about 160 F water into your house from the Hardy pretty steady and your oil boiler needs to be set below that or it will always be running too. I have a temp gauge on my propane boiler and I can montitor my incoming water temp and mine usually stays between 140 and 160 when my pumps keep circulating.

8

Hardy / Re: H4 door way constantly cracking and leaking

« on: December 12, 2012, 04:12:48 PM »

I am on my third blower motor and third boiler level float. I would say I am on at least my 6th domestic water pop-off valve. My chimney baffle ( plate at the bottom of chimney inside firebox ) is my second one too. I even replaced the internal copper coil once.

9

Hardy / H4 door way constantly cracking and leaking

« on: December 10, 2012, 02:39:49 PM »

I have an H4 operate it year round, I put it into service in November of 2001 and been using it ever since. In the winter of 2004-2005 I had noticed a leak form at the top of the door way arch. I called my dealer and he didnt feel it was anything major and wanted me to try some boiler seal and see if we could get by thru the firing season. By the end of Jan 05 it was steady drip to where I would have ice form on the outside of the furnace. So the dealer brought a unit to use and had my unit shipped to Mississippi. As I understand the factory cut out the doorway and welded in basically a new front end. When the dealer brought my unit back the factory wanted to charge me for shipping it to them. I talked with the dealer and I called and talked with one of the head guys at the Hardy Factory,and shared with them that I felt that was out of line since it was THEIR workmanship that caused the crack. You could follow the crack right along the weld seam. The dealer stood the shipping charge, so I was charged just a portion of the material and parts. 4 years later it starts to leak again almost the same location it did the first time. After looking into what Hardy was going to charge me based on warranty depreciation and remembering how ticked the Hardy Factory rep made me, I decided to say "nuts to Hardy" and got a friend of mine who is a certified welder to repair the leak. He has since repaired leaks on the doorframe 4 times and everytime its followed right along the weld seams on that CRAPPY stainless steel Hardy uses. I have discussed this issue with several manufacturing and weld shops in the area and they all agreed 304 Stainless is NOT a good metal product to be using in a heating and cooling situation, like in a doorframe of these units. They told me that 304 gets brittle when heated and cooled over time and will fracture especially in areas like welds where it was super heated previously.  I cant believe my unit is the only unit having this issue. I did recently run across another unit that had the entire front end replaced.

As of now when the time comes that I seriously need to look into replacing this unit, I can say it will NOT be a Hardy. Reason I went with the Hardy, at the time I had budgeted a certain amount of money and the Hardy gave me all the options with it in that budgeted range. At the time all the dealers locally of other brands could hook my domestic system online too but they all used the side arm systems and that was an additional cost over and above the unit price. In regards to a Hardy "EATING" large volumes of wood, that is true and I am glad I work at a sawmill. I easily burning over 50 full size pickup truck loads of firewood a year. I hardly ever burn slabwood, I burn big chunks and chunks that have nails or other metal in it, basically prime firewood. I also learned that I get a better burn and use LESS firewood by burning green firewood. Everytime I burn dry firewood I actually burn more wood and have a harder time filling the firebox to keep a fire going thru the night ( 10 hr burn time )

I am curious has anyone or is anyone having repeated issues with their Hardy leaking ? I did see one thread  where some one felt a lawsuit was in order.

10

Hardy / Re: Hardy getting to hot when its warm/windy

« on: December 10, 2012, 01:12:24 PM »

I live in Ohio and my boiler boils all the time we have windy days like that in the months I am not heating the house but only domestic water. Hardy had drilled a couple hole in the blower lid and I put screws in them. Also during the warm month turn your aquastat down from 180 to 150. That way you arent carring your water temps in the boiler so high to start with. I did that and it reduced the number of days I find my boiler steaming.